reattaching wires leading to reference sensor.
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria BC.
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
reattaching wires leading to reference sensor.
So I replaced the Reference sensor in my car then i noticed the wires going too it are frayed (see exposed wires in attached pictures). So i cut it out now i gotta reattach it properly. Is there any special solder needed if i decided to do that? I was thinking of just using butt connectors because i was told that they last longer cause the solder eventually cracks and the butt connectors keep a tight grip on the wires. so im lookin for some input/ opinions. cause im probably gonna just use butt connectors.
http://www.theexitwound.com/944/speedandref1.jpg
http://www.theexitwound.com/944/speedandref1.jpg
#3
Race Car
So I replaced the Reference sensor in my car then i noticed the wires going too it are frayed (see exposed wires in attached pictures). So i cut it out now i gotta reattach it properly. Is there any special solder needed if i decided to do that? I was thinking of just using butt connectors because i was told that they last longer cause the solder eventually cracks and the butt connectors keep a tight grip on the wires. so im lookin for some input/ opinions. cause im probably gonna just use butt connectors.
http://www.theexitwound.com/944/speedandref1.jpg
http://www.theexitwound.com/944/speedandref1.jpg
There ya go,
#4
Rennlist Member
Commercial-quality crimping tools create a crimped connection that is superior to hard-soldered, but the kind of crimpers most people have... it varies greatly. I like to use an uninsulated butt connector (just the metal sleeve), crimp it, solder it, and heat shrink it. Belt and suspenders. Using an exposed sleeve makes it more likely you're getting the wires all the way in and getting them crimped properly.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Commercial-quality crimping tools create a crimped connection that is superior to hard-soldered, but the kind of crimpers most people have... it varies greatly. I like to use an uninsulated butt connector (just the metal sleeve), crimp it, solder it, and heat shrink it. Belt and suspenders. Using an exposed sleeve makes it more likely you're getting the wires all the way in and getting them crimped properly.
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I like solder and heat shrink, it's the neatest and most compact. Hasn't failed me yet.
Use whatever you're comfortable with, and whatever you can get better results with. I.e., if you suck at soldering, then definitely use butt splices.
Use whatever you're comfortable with, and whatever you can get better results with. I.e., if you suck at soldering, then definitely use butt splices.
#7
Instructor
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't think what you're looking at is fraying wires. Attached is the relavent section of the wiring diagram. Notice how the shielding for the cables goes to pin 3 on the connector. Since this shielding doesn't have it's own insulation, just the gray cable jacket, there is neccisarily an exposed portion before it enteres the heatshrink and goes into the connector body. I think that's what you're looking at. If the other two wires look ok, I'd leave it alone.
Trending Topics
#8
Drifting
That wire going to pin 3 apprears to be for the oxy sensor and these wires are not part of that. The round connector goes to the Oxy sensor. If the wire's not broken and the adjacent wire is ok, I'd cut a piece of larger wire covering and pull it off, cut it down the middle, wrap the exposed part between this and the good wire and, using silicone, place it between the two and after it sets up place the cover over the wires. It'll be like new. If the wire's damaged, then expose clean wire on both ends, wrap the ends around each other at least one twist (with the shrink tubing installed before you do this) then do a good job of soldering the joint and then slide and heat the shrink tube. Mechanically it's a very strong and long lasting joint.
#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Livonia, Michigan
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The best solution is to get the new speed and reference sensor harness from Lindsay. This will give you new wiring all the way back to the DME connector. It may seem a bit intimidating, but it's not that difficult; you remove 5 connector pins out of the DME connector and replace them with the new pins in the new harness, then just route the new wires up to the sensors. They have full instructions with pics on the site. Honestly - for the amount of grief that these sensors can cause, it's a well spent $100.