Rear hatch glass problem
10-20-2016, 09:46 AM
#16
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
99% of the time buying OEM is the same item. Porsche didn't add any value to it other than having it branded with their logo and handling it through their supply chain. That doesn't make it "better", just more expensive. That authenticity may be critical for concours, but not the typical daily driver/weekend toy.
Buying OEM and buying aftermarket off-brand/knockoff are two distinct things.
10-22-2016, 09:58 AM
#17
When the time comes to replace the stock Porsche struts, I install Sachs hatch strut SG214008 from the 1990 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L 258cid L6 vehicle. The Sachs struts are listed on Rock Auto.
They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.
My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.
They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.
My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.
10-23-2016, 01:33 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
If you think you are only dealing with a hatch strut problem causing delam, this is a fallacy that's been bandied about since the car's introduction .......
In about 1985 or '86, our local Porsche service tech showed us at a Tech Session at the dealership during one of our local PCA events, Porsche 'White-paper' on the causes and cures for delamination that had already begun to show itself on cars only a year or two old.
ONE handing the glass shut, slamming it when cold in winter, or using incorrect gas struts with pressure different from what the factory supplied parts contained, were the main points listed on that service advisory. The service tech walked over to one of the cars in the service bay and then asked us, how we shut our hatches.
The techs were instructed to tell the owner the correct way was to place both hands directly over the latch pins on the rear spoiler and snug down slowly. One handing it by the center of the hatch spoiler often creates an unequal or twisting motion. A delam is made worse by the wind thrusting the glass skyward on opening, or the speed at which it's closed, especially when cold and the gas strut is being 'forced'. Using the automatic opener in the footwell was not recommended on a windy day.
He showed us aftermarket struts which he had just taken off a car which were new and so overloaded in pressure they were far in excess of what an OEM strut contained for closing power.
It made up my mind right then and there, I will skip the few bucks saved on a part which causes more problems and costs me more grief and money by delaminating my glass. From then on I used caution when opening on windy days or closed the hatch slowly with two hands, never one. When the glass comes apart at the top it lets in water, which will ruin your hatch carpet. Creates wind noise or causes the glass to shift downward altering the latching position at the pins, causing alignment and closure problems.
Use what you want, but this problem has been around since the cars were built new back in the day and a good Porsche tech familiar with the 944 and it's issues will be one of the first to agree the proper part is the shortcut to your problems. Proper attention to opening and closing is a must. Especially now that most of our cars are 30 to 33 years old.
None of mine have hatch delamination issues and never have had, due to proper prior owner care and attention. They all have Porsche struts in them; a couple still have the originals. For certain the ones I bought new still are the same from the day the cars were built .....
Of course your mileage may vary ......
jm2c
In about 1985 or '86, our local Porsche service tech showed us at a Tech Session at the dealership during one of our local PCA events, Porsche 'White-paper' on the causes and cures for delamination that had already begun to show itself on cars only a year or two old.
ONE handing the glass shut, slamming it when cold in winter, or using incorrect gas struts with pressure different from what the factory supplied parts contained, were the main points listed on that service advisory. The service tech walked over to one of the cars in the service bay and then asked us, how we shut our hatches.
The techs were instructed to tell the owner the correct way was to place both hands directly over the latch pins on the rear spoiler and snug down slowly. One handing it by the center of the hatch spoiler often creates an unequal or twisting motion. A delam is made worse by the wind thrusting the glass skyward on opening, or the speed at which it's closed, especially when cold and the gas strut is being 'forced'. Using the automatic opener in the footwell was not recommended on a windy day.
He showed us aftermarket struts which he had just taken off a car which were new and so overloaded in pressure they were far in excess of what an OEM strut contained for closing power.
It made up my mind right then and there, I will skip the few bucks saved on a part which causes more problems and costs me more grief and money by delaminating my glass. From then on I used caution when opening on windy days or closed the hatch slowly with two hands, never one. When the glass comes apart at the top it lets in water, which will ruin your hatch carpet. Creates wind noise or causes the glass to shift downward altering the latching position at the pins, causing alignment and closure problems.
Use what you want, but this problem has been around since the cars were built new back in the day and a good Porsche tech familiar with the 944 and it's issues will be one of the first to agree the proper part is the shortcut to your problems. Proper attention to opening and closing is a must. Especially now that most of our cars are 30 to 33 years old.
None of mine have hatch delamination issues and never have had, due to proper prior owner care and attention. They all have Porsche struts in them; a couple still have the originals. For certain the ones I bought new still are the same from the day the cars were built .....
Of course your mileage may vary ......
jm2c
The following users liked this post:
mazdaverx7 (08-31-2020)
10-23-2016, 02:31 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Sound advice and common sense too. The Porsche approved technique you described is my routine every time I use my hatch, only because I've always considered it the weakest part of the design. Unfortunately my mileage still did vary.
I spent my Sunday morning changing back to my original hatch. The '86 Turbo hatch I was using separated from the frame at the top and developed some chips in the glass. The autoglass shop I asked for help from said the hatch glass was toughened, not laminated (so it can't 'delaminate'), and could shatter into pieces at any given time.
I spent my Sunday morning changing back to my original hatch. The '86 Turbo hatch I was using separated from the frame at the top and developed some chips in the glass. The autoglass shop I asked for help from said the hatch glass was toughened, not laminated (so it can't 'delaminate'), and could shatter into pieces at any given time.
10-23-2016, 02:55 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
^^^^^^^^^^
that is a fairly uncommon car seen in North America. You may have gotten more than we did; I know the Europeans surely did.
A sunroof delete in Sapphire or Glacier Blue metallic. Beautiful !
GREAT shot looking down ~
Thanks for posting these photos and good luck with the new / old hatch. ( by delam I was actually referring to the glass coming out of the metal frame, not the separation of glass from the vinyl sheet in between ).
that is a fairly uncommon car seen in North America. You may have gotten more than we did; I know the Europeans surely did.
A sunroof delete in Sapphire or Glacier Blue metallic. Beautiful !
GREAT shot looking down ~
Thanks for posting these photos and good luck with the new / old hatch. ( by delam I was actually referring to the glass coming out of the metal frame, not the separation of glass from the vinyl sheet in between ).
10-23-2016, 03:00 AM
#22
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When the time comes to replace the stock Porsche struts, I install Sachs hatch strut SG214008 from the 1990 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L 258cid L6 vehicle. The Sachs struts are listed on Rock Auto.
They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.
My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.
They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.
My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.
10-23-2016, 06:52 AM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thanks its crystal green metallic. It's an unusual colour but it plays well in the light. Todays sunlight was very intense and it washed out my phones camera.
The following users liked this post:
mazdaverx7 (08-31-2020)
08-30-2020, 09:31 PM
#25
When the time comes to replace the stock Porsche struts, I install Sachs hatch strut SG214008 from the 1990 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L 258cid L6 vehicle. The Sachs struts are listed on Rock Auto.
They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.
My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.
They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.
My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.
The only warning is that the passenger strut has a small cap and plastic insulator that opens the circuit for the internal lights when the hatch is closed. You can swap these over from the originals to the jeep struts, it takes careful splitting and then some electrical tape after the transplant to hold in the plastic insulator to the strut. I had to cut the original with a blade. Took less than an hour for the whole effort.
Last edited by cnikols; 08-30-2020 at 09:37 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by cnikols:
