gricec

Recently put a new motor in my 85.1 .

Went to give it a test start today and it started but will only run when the starter motor is engaged. As soon as you move the key back to the run position it dies.

The starter motor is also incredibly noisy when you turn it on and you can defnitely hear it wind down when you remove the key. Its also from time to time seems to stop on the compression of the motor like its not strong enough to push it over,

The starter motor came with the used block I bought and I am thinking it must be bad. I read that an ignition switch exhibits the same symptoms when they go bad.

Anyone have any pointers.

doabarrelroll

When you say it will only run with the starter motor engaged, does it fire or not?

Regardless, I would check a few things. If you turn the key to "Key ON", listen for the sound of the fuel pump. If you don't hear it, you may not be getting fuel to the engine.

Check your reference sensors. With a new motor, it's possible that the wires got mixed up or the gap is incorrect. There is a write-up on Clarks Garage about it.

Finally, check your ground on the engine block itself. If there is a wiring problem, I would most likely suspect this to be the culprit.

It's really easy to miss this little stuff during this process. Just take your time with it and be methodical otherwise it will drive you nuts!

gricec

Yeah it runs and holds an idle if the starter motor is engaged.

As soon as you put the key back to the on position it dies.

John_AZ

Replace the ignition switch on the early 944 85.1 cheap- $5 Pelican.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...5%29%2C%20Each

Pull the starter and clean the inside:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...0#post42115781

The pics are of a diesel but the gas starter is similiar.

Put the original starter in.

It may not be the starter. Sounds more like the ignition switch is cracked.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-17.pdf

GL
John

gricec

Cool thanks.

One thing i noticed as well is that if I remove the dme relay it crank smoothly but when I plug in the dme relay it struggles to spin the motor.

John_AZ

The DME relay is a 2 part relay.

1 relay is for the fuel pump--DME/Fuel pump relay

1 relay is for the DME Motronic computer

Have you checked the correct spark plug to distributer cap order?



GL
John

gricec

Ok pulled the ignition switch today and there is a big crack in it.

It also doesn't ohm right per Clarks.

gricec

Well the new ignition switch did not fix it. The starter sounds like it hangs up every other revolution. I noticed that if I take the distributor cap off it will crank normally so I am thinking it must be something to do with spark. My grounds are clean and tight as well

doabarrelroll

Maybe post a video of what it sounds like when you crank it? That may be helpful as to resolving the problem.

John_AZ

Check the charging system.

Here is a rebuilders link.

http://aimpartsonline.com/reduce%20warranties

I followed this information last weekend to find out why my starter was sluggush. Previously I had done a mini rebuild on the starter---cleaning & relube.

I had checked my battery drain per clarks:

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-26.htm

I think I have found my problem...............

The POSITIVE battery clamp on the OEM cable had become corroded inside the crimp that holds the copper wire strands. I cut the connector open after doing the voltage drop test above.

The connector had oxidation between the inside crimp and the wires.

I have cut the battery cable connector off the cable and replaced it with a NAPA military clamp and copper wire end soldered to the copper battery cable.



Starter "jumps" when the key is turned and the battery is staying at full charge.

GL
John

gricec

Ill try to get a video up tomorrow.

The starter is really noisy and i seems to stop half way through turning the engine over. I believe it to be the compression stroke. Also when you remove the key you can still hear it spiining down

If I disconect the ignition coil it cranks perfectly, as it does when I remove the DME relay.

I connected the voltmeter to the battery and the voltage drops down to around 6-7 volts when it is "hanging", at the same time the tach moves around a lot, sometimes all the way to 4000 rpm on the tach.

It must be something electrical in the ignition system or maybe the starter is weak.

One other thing is the alternator is completly disconected. The car should run on battery power though.

Is it possible to get the alternator and starter wires the wrong way round. I couldnt work out if this would make a difference or not

John_AZ

I tried to rebuid an old starter a couple of years ago following the information I posted in post #4.

I found the white plastic inner coller was cracked the same way in the DIY. It did not pay to go further.
If this collar is cracked it will cause binding.

How are your charging the battery without the alternator? Have you taken the battery to a store and had it tested? Do you have a LOAD meter to test the battery performance?

The main output of the alternator (thick wire) goes to the starter post where it connects to the main POS battery cable to the battery. The tiny blue wire goes to the dash lamp--must have to complete charging curcuit.

I once had a bad starter that over the years was causing a binding when installed. There was a tiny bit of movement you could feel by twisting the starter when the 2 bolts were just about to be torqued. If the starter was turned one way there was no binding, If the starter was turned the other way --BINDING.
Check to see if you have any slop in the starter bolt holes.

I had to get a new starter "nose" (used) to fix and it is still on my '87.

GL
John

gricec

I have a battery charger which i have been using to charge it.

The battery is also brand new.

The alternator, battery wire is one unit for me. On each end I have the same connectors.

John_AZ

I need a better explanation.

The car came with a Positive battery cable that goes to the starter.

The alternator thick cable goes to the starter (same post as positive battery cable)

Thus 2 cables, yes?

John

gricec

Sorry Ill have to have a proper look at it.....but I do not have 2 cables.

It looks like I have one that splits, both ends have the same connectors on them.

I notice from digging that some people have a 3rd wire ground? to the starter - I dont have that should I. I was underr the impression the starter ground to the bblock via the starter bolts.