pkt1213

I was just curious as to what the factory set up looks like in this case. I'm mainly going to rely on the slot to feed air into the intake. I 931 header pannel would just be an additional piece(if I do it).

nasty9er

ok let me clear a few thing up. my car is a 88 924s meaning it does have the 10:1 comp. and i know there is alot to be done before i have to worry about the intake but so far i rebuilt the head with new valves and guides i also have a new cam from webcams but not there race cam but the step under. i am planning on redoing the bottom end when i get around to it and have my crank worked. in the long run i would like to get what i can out of the 8v i know i wont make huge power but i want to push the little motor as far i can with in reason. right now i would like to know if i need to worry about the fule system will the injector be good enough or will i have to go bigger someday and what stage head is good for a n/a car?

pkt1213

Everything that I've ever read or been told that the 8v head flow well enough that you'll run out everywhere else before losing power from head flow.

nasty9er

good to know........ whats the first to top out?

whalebird

With that compression, lighten up the rods and chase rpms. Ti valve/spring hardware may be a good idea, especially with a hot cam.

pkt1213

Might call LR and talk to them about it. Did you do a simple port and polish when you did the valves and cam?

nasty9er

thx whale! do you have any input on what type of rodz would work for a barely street legal car meaning i dont mind having to throw on some stock parts to get threw the dmv. so whale do you think i should go with the stage 4 head with the 7mm valves?

PK- no sad to say i did not p&p by the time i got the head back from the shop i just had to get it done i was pushing 1 1/2 year off the road and i started the build after i ended up with a bannana smothie in my oil that sucked blown gasket and i found out i had 2 littley bent valves so i told myself i would do a true head job in a few years


and every thing i am talking about doing is not going to happin over night. something like this will take me 4-5 year to get it all done going by my time and $$$$

North Coast Cab

I have a head completely rebuilt with new valves and springs, full port and decking never installed.
I also have a custom AL shortrunner intake I built. It is designed for better flow and upward shift ofbpowerband. Set-up for straight through filter set-up by removing the factory air box.
PM if interested.

nasty9er

did you have work done to the valve or just stock replacements

J1NX3D

dry sump it.

nasty9er

i feel for a street car dry sump is a little over kill i have read if you just top the oil off a little bit you should be fine that plus a knife edged crank to take car of foaming and i already have an oil cooler on it

have you heard any other benifits of the dry sump

Paulyy

a dry sump is pointless for a street car. yes knifed edge crank would be good. could even go stroker 2.7L and a S2 crank

Jfrahm

I think it is fair to say that you could dump $10k into a 924S and still get walked by a 924S that has been swapped to a 968 motor. The swap would cost $5k without labor.

If however you want to go through the process of upgrading the 2.5 (as many already have) as a hobby rather than having the power as a goal then hey it's a hobby and it's your money. It's probably a better hobby than self-harming or sniffing glue but I'm not sure on that.

The 968 transplant gets you more displacement, more valves, more compression, variocam, forged-ish internals, piston oil squirters, MAF, bigger oil cooler, better knock detection, tuned intake, supercharger options, etc.

The bad news is that the 968 upgrade will make enough power to break the stock transmission while the 2.5 upgrades really won't. You can abuse and break the 944NA box just as well with stock HP as you can with 15% more.

-Joel.

V2Rocket

id sell the 968 oil cooler to some track hooligan and get a bigger, more useful cooler for a 968 motor swap.

+1 on dry sump being overkill

ZR8ED

I'll chime in here as I'm doing intake work myself currently, and I have learned quite a bit in the last few weeks. There is power to be had, but at a dollars and effort required per hp rate that is excessive to say the very least when compared to the other options already listed for increased hp. With that said, playing with "what you have" can be very satisifying, if you realise that the end result is not going to be massive hp gains. I agree with the amount of money required IF you have to pay someone else to do the work, but if you have the skills/talent/time, and equipment, then noticeable gains can be made with minimal dollars (assuming you don't buy shop equipment for this project specifically)
Choose the high dollar version or the high skill/effort (on your part)

Cubic inches, compression, and rpm's are your three best friends to putting more hp to the wheels...well, VE too (volumetric efficiency)

Good luck!