just replaced and serviced a/c and its not cold??
#31
Rennlist Member
So you didn't put water INSIDE the tubes of the condenser? Just washed the fins?
EV is still the best bet. You should try wrapping the capillary tube with insulation, it needs to conduct temperature back to the EV. If it stays warm, the EV will stay wide open.
EV is still the best bet. You should try wrapping the capillary tube with insulation, it needs to conduct temperature back to the EV. If it stays warm, the EV will stay wide open.
#32
Nordschleife Master
Try hosing down he condenser (AC on....) while you idle the car in your driveway. This will cool the condenser considerably, so the air coming out of the vents should make your nipples hard enough to cut glass.
Me thinks your feeling the pleasant effects of switching to 134 in a system made for r-12 (small condenser). Meaning, its working just as it should. R-134 is not as efficient as r-12, especially in as humid of place as N. Carolina.
Me thinks your feeling the pleasant effects of switching to 134 in a system made for r-12 (small condenser). Meaning, its working just as it should. R-134 is not as efficient as r-12, especially in as humid of place as N. Carolina.
#33
well.... i will wrap the EV and try hosing the condensor down and see the difference.... like i said it is cool and its cool enough to be tollerable for the drive to work but i was thinking that it should be alot "cooler" than it is....
i was under the dash today, looking at the vac lines and noticed the heater core was HOT.... i thought about it and am looking at this.... http://944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Sto...skukey_1000035
tomorrow i will see if its opening and closing like it should.... the coolant shouldnt be getting in the cabin if the heat isnt turned on right? im thinking this could be a culprate as well...
i was under the dash today, looking at the vac lines and noticed the heater core was HOT.... i thought about it and am looking at this.... http://944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Sto...skukey_1000035
tomorrow i will see if its opening and closing like it should.... the coolant shouldnt be getting in the cabin if the heat isnt turned on right? im thinking this could be a culprate as well...
#34
Burning Brakes
Look at My Post #6 in this topic...
This Heater Control Valve is probably sticking open; especially if you say the Heater Core is Hot... You can actuate the lever with your hand.
http://944time.com/porsche/images/20...trol-valve.jpg
Also as i said earlier feel the two lines going into the firewall on the passenger's side of the engine bay. They should be cold when the AC is running.
This Heater Control Valve is probably sticking open; especially if you say the Heater Core is Hot... You can actuate the lever with your hand.
http://944time.com/porsche/images/20...trol-valve.jpg
Also as i said earlier feel the two lines going into the firewall on the passenger's side of the engine bay. They should be cold when the AC is running.
#35
Nordschleife Master
Look at My Post #6 in this topic...
This Heater Control Valve is probably sticking open; especially if you say the Heater Core is Hot... You can actuate the lever with your hand.
http://944time.com/porsche/images/20...trol-valve.jpg
Also as i said earlier feel the two lines going into the firewall on the passenger's side of the engine bay. They should be cold when the AC is running.
This Heater Control Valve is probably sticking open; especially if you say the Heater Core is Hot... You can actuate the lever with your hand.
http://944time.com/porsche/images/20...trol-valve.jpg
Also as i said earlier feel the two lines going into the firewall on the passenger's side of the engine bay. They should be cold when the AC is running.
#36
Well... I checked the valve, it was open with the car off... Then I started it and it closed... The ac was off and so was the heater... The valve vacuum line goes to the bottom nipple on the fire wall.... I am just confused as to why the heater core is hot when that valve is "closed" I have not checked to see if the valve stays closed when the a/c is on...? Maybe I should huh....
#37
Burning Brakes
OR, as I recently discovered on a local listers car, the vacuum lines are incorrectly routed causing the valve to not recieve the proper vacuum signal.. verify the vacuum lines run from the check valve (small, blue or black, near the brake booster) to the vacuum reservoir with a T to the firewall nipple, the other firewall nipple runs to the heater control valve...
#38
How about manually closing the heater control valve with a vacuum tester http://www.mityvac.com/ and see if the ac temp is normal.