My History And The Building of my "LS44"
03-03-2011, 09:43 PM
#16
Race Car
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
Posts: 4,220
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23 Posts
Nice. I'll admit I thought you would never pull it off when you told me about this a few years ago. I'll see you at VIR sometime.
Last edited by knfeparty; 07-23-2011 at 09:25 PM.
03-04-2011, 01:24 AM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Sorry for the delay in responding, i wasnt getting an email notification...
Thanks, I still have nightmares about that harness..... I also have nightmares about redoing it.... there are a few things i would redo... Like moving the alternator to the other side.
The headers were built in the car, so clearance is really good, I know people are trying to find an off the shelf solution to modify, but it just isnt going to happen, and the main reason for that is because the tips of my collectors angle to the center of the car to the point where they would be inside the transmission of any of the LS cars, and the vette... all those headers hit the steering shaft... Building them was the only way, I wanted 1 3/4 or larger and Renegade's are 1 5/8 and crack.... I wanted long tube so the recent ones that XS help design woldnt work. Once i finally finish them they will be much nicer, There just tacked together in that pic, they are in the process of being welded and ground, then i am getting them ceramic coated black...
The Engine was completely torn down, rebuilt with stock bearings etc, updated rod bolts, LS6 intake, 241 heads with a fresh valve job. and a late Z06 Cam. My goal was 400 to the wheels but i have pretty much accpeted i wont get that, I basically have a late Z06 motor with long tubes, so thats what 400 at the crank, Yeah i doubt the headers will make up the 10-15% drivetrain loss... I have been seriously thinking about getting a custom cam done, but at this point that would take about $400-$500 it sets me back a little longer, i have to dissassemble the engine again... I really just want to drive the car, and i have a feeling that I am gonig to have my hands full with the 380+ that it does make.... I would REALLY like to go to VIR with it once this summer, I have a LOT to learn....
Not a problem, thanks for the comments! My only regret is not documenting on it from the beginning.
LOL! You know i recently drywalled the ceiling in the garage and removed the two 4' lights that were in there (1 only worked half the time) and installed 10 8' lights... And realized how freaking nasty that engine bay is... And to top it all off, someone went to the trouble of taking this ultra common SILVER 944 and painted it that Crazy RARE Guards Red.... but the engine bay is still siver.... Anyway... This car will get a paint job... But more than likely it wont be this body getting painted... about twice a year i see a shell go up for sale with a rollcage already in it... That would be my dream... if not Ill find a CLEAN bare shell and do my paint work on it, itll allow me to have ALL that tar crap stripped off of it and not damage my one and only brain cell!!! I am going to have issues taking this car back off the road once i get it running.... This way i can have my body painted and swap everything over.
LOL! Please dont say that with my wife around.... I was recently in a motorcycle accident and have been out of work for 2 weeks.... I have toyed with the idea. The funny thing is once i get it done, more then likely i will. ITs all about the project for me, but i really do want to learn to drive so maybe not.
Something really funny about that.... obviously I wanted to keep the engine bay as clean as possible, well the MAIN reason i went with the Electric water pump was so i didnt have to run that hideous tensioner... I am running the alternator on the low drivers side, it bolts directly to the block with no brackets, i just need to make a spacer to line it up with the crank pulley. As for tensioning the belt, well If you remove the bottom bolt, it tilts inward a few inches, if you take a cutoff wheel and remove 90% of the head of one of the case bolts of the alternator you gain another inch, i am going to get a belt that will slip on this way push the alternator over and bolt it down. I also have an idea for a bracket that would allow me to utilize a bolt hole very close on the block and give me full swing, thats my backup plan...
Dude, you are so lucky, the only thing I have going for me is there are no questions in my head about the condition of the engine, but if i had to do it again I promise you there would be a complete 6.0 Ironblock in there...
Yeah, my plans are to add a cooler up front later and what i will do is run the forward oil line to the front of the car, then run a hard line from the filter up under the fender to the front. If you come across a spare harness i would be more than happy to customize it for you, you have done ALOT for the 44 swap scene, you should be happy to know the ONLY true purchased swap parts on my car are from you!!! Thanks again!
Are you saying the Cayenne rotors will fit under 951 calipers....
Thank your very much
Thanks Ash, I cant wait! We really need to meet up when your in town next... I know you keep calling me... 
Thanks, I cant wait to do more actually...
Thanks Dan... you just ruined my night 
I keep trying to tell myself that the manual brakes will be fine... if that is the case, i could end up going a couple different ways. The solution that someone pointed out to me today on the hybrids forum was to basically use a 1:1 master to slave to actuate the stock booster relocated to the battery area, and it turns out there are vehicles out there like this, but to me mechanically my concern is no failsafe... its a single circuit that controls all my brakes, and mechanically I dont like that... I cant imagine doing a straight at VIR going into the corner to find NO BRAKES.... 
Option 2 is go with Rob's tandem M/C setup this seems like a great solution except its larger than the other options.
Option 3 is a hydroboost utilizing one of the many electric power steering pumps out there, That way the lines could immediatly dissapear into the fenderwell and i could mount it above my filter.
Option 4 is the most expensive and completely unrealistic... But the 911 hydroboost setup... Its very nice, but as reliable as the aircooled 911 it came in.... And just as expensive....
Option 5 I guess that m/c that has it all built in should be an option, but honestly that just feels like im throwing money at a problem to make it go away, and if its between throwing money away or sanity... Well i dont have much of either but at least i have a small amount of sanity...
Thanks for all the comments everyone, I really do enjoy them.... Hopefully I go do something tomorrow, at least i can what i did on other parts of the project, i have a bunch of pictures.
Mark
Props to you for making your own longtubes. Admittedly, they aren't the prettiest things, but if they don't leak and get the job done then way to go. Curious to know how the fitment / ground clearance is with them.
Any internal work done to the motor? Might as well go h/c/i while it's easy to access...
Any internal work done to the motor? Might as well go h/c/i while it's easy to access...
The Engine was completely torn down, rebuilt with stock bearings etc, updated rod bolts, LS6 intake, 241 heads with a fresh valve job. and a late Z06 Cam. My goal was 400 to the wheels but i have pretty much accpeted i wont get that, I basically have a late Z06 motor with long tubes, so thats what 400 at the crank, Yeah i doubt the headers will make up the 10-15% drivetrain loss... I have been seriously thinking about getting a custom cam done, but at this point that would take about $400-$500 it sets me back a little longer, i have to dissassemble the engine again... I really just want to drive the car, and i have a feeling that I am gonig to have my hands full with the 380+ that it does make.... I would REALLY like to go to VIR with it once this summer, I have a LOT to learn....
LOL! Please dont say that with my wife around.... I was recently in a motorcycle accident and have been out of work for 2 weeks.... I have toyed with the idea. The funny thing is once i get it done, more then likely i will. ITs all about the project for me, but i really do want to learn to drive so maybe not.
Dude, you are so lucky, the only thing I have going for me is there are no questions in my head about the condition of the engine, but if i had to do it again I promise you there would be a complete 6.0 Ironblock in there...
I like the oil relo lines, gives somewhat of an "oil cooler" effect going thru hard lines at that length. Wish I had the time to replumb my heater core lines and clean the bay some more....kudos
BTW, I about have the Wilwood hats done for the 86T. I discovered you can use the factory 951 calipers on the 32mm thick rotors, you just need to grind the rotor sweep edges a little inside the calipers, no biggie.
P.S....get well soon
BTW, I about have the Wilwood hats done for the 86T. I discovered you can use the factory 951 calipers on the 32mm thick rotors, you just need to grind the rotor sweep edges a little inside the calipers, no biggie.
P.S....get well soon
Are you saying the Cayenne rotors will fit under 951 calipers....
Thank your very much
Thanks, I cant wait to do more actually...
I keep trying to tell myself that the manual brakes will be fine... if that is the case, i could end up going a couple different ways. The solution that someone pointed out to me today on the hybrids forum was to basically use a 1:1 master to slave to actuate the stock booster relocated to the battery area, and it turns out there are vehicles out there like this, but to me mechanically my concern is no failsafe... its a single circuit that controls all my brakes, and mechanically I dont like that... I cant imagine doing a straight at VIR going into the corner to find NO BRAKES.... Option 2 is go with Rob's tandem M/C setup this seems like a great solution except its larger than the other options.
Option 3 is a hydroboost utilizing one of the many electric power steering pumps out there, That way the lines could immediatly dissapear into the fenderwell and i could mount it above my filter.
Option 4 is the most expensive and completely unrealistic... But the 911 hydroboost setup... Its very nice, but as reliable as the aircooled 911 it came in.... And just as expensive....
Option 5 I guess that m/c that has it all built in should be an option, but honestly that just feels like im throwing money at a problem to make it go away, and if its between throwing money away or sanity... Well i dont have much of either but at least i have a small amount of sanity...
Thanks for all the comments everyone, I really do enjoy them.... Hopefully I go do something tomorrow, at least i can what i did on other parts of the project, i have a bunch of pictures.
Mark
03-04-2011, 01:25 AM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
03-04-2011, 02:12 AM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
Mark
03-04-2011, 11:51 AM
#26
If you come across a spare harness i would be more than happy to customize it for you, you have done ALOT for the 44 swap scene, you should be happy to know the ONLY true purchased swap parts on my car are from you!!! Thanks again!
Are you saying the Cayenne rotors will fit under 951 calipers....
Are you saying the Cayenne rotors will fit under 951 calipers....
I finished the adapter bracket design for the Wilwood Superlites to bolt-up to the NA with the Cayenne rotors already. Just need time to pretty them on the CNC.
Make sure that you ground both heads and the LS1 block because the gasket material in not very conductive and you can get misfires...BTDT
03-04-2011, 05:26 PM
#27
Of course I've not tracked my car yet...
03-05-2011, 01:27 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
I made 372rwhp with a mild cam, LS6 intake manifold and throttle body and shorty headers.
I'm running a hydroboosted brake setup from a Ford Mustang and a Turn 1 power steering pump. Works very well, but I can't see how you'd hide the lines...
I'm running a hydroboosted brake setup from a Ford Mustang and a Turn 1 power steering pump. Works very well, but I can't see how you'd hide the lines...
