xschop

The heims replaced the outer tie-rods on 5/8" bump steer bolts at the spindles.
The key to getting the cam bolt to stop slapping is to make sure that it does what it was designed to do and rotate to a fixed cam postion while maintaining contact with the strut protrusion (just like a cam and lifter should maintain constant contact)...HTH

ThirdPedal

Bringing this one back. I got really busy and lived with the noise until tonight. I started picking around the suspension, and I've determined my noise is the caster blocks. First, I held the caster block with one hand, bounced the car, and felt the vibration as it made the noise. Then, I went to check torque on the bolts. When I checked the rear 19mm nut, the noise was immediate as I attempted to tighten, but the nut was tight as could be. Then, I checked the bolts that mount the block to the body, and they were tight, but moved a tad with some force. I stopped for fear of over-torquing them. Does anyone know the torque specs on them?

The noise seemed to lessen when I tightened the mounting bolts a tad, but they're really quite tight, and I do not want to over-torque them. I'm wondering if it's possible both caster blocks are bad, causing the noise? What are the symptoms of a failed caster block anyhow?

V2Rocket

back to the beginning, have you listened around and determined it is the front? because if youve got a loose shock bolt at the back that would clunk too. etc.

ThirdPedal

Yea, it's definitely the front suspension, and I'm about 90% positive it's the rear mounting of the control arm. At first I thought it was the FSB. So, I removed the endlinks from both sides, noise is still there. Since I can replicate the sound by bouncing the front suspension, I can turn the wheels to full lock and bounce the car while holding different areas with my hand. The vibrations from the noise are worse when I'm holding the caster block. The strut, spring, upper strut mount, lower strut mount, and ball joint all make very little vibration compared to the caster block when the sound pops up. When I attempted to tighten the large nut on the rear of the caster block and the sound went nuts, I assumed it's something to do with the caster block. Perhaps the bearings in the block are going bad?

Now, what I think is the STRANGEST part is that the sound does not occur over bumps. The only time I hear it is when there is a subtle transfer of weight at low speed, like accelerating from a stop or coming to a complete stop. It also does it when turning sharply, but only in situations where there is weight transfer from one side to the other. It's starting to get more frequent though. It started as a slight pop every so often, and it's evolving into a full-on creak. It also happens on both sides of the car. I've checked torque at all suspension connection points, and everything is tight. If it weren't for the sound, I'd assume the suspension was perfect. I'm stumped.

Mike C.

Be careful tightening those caster blocks. I stripped out the threads on one of the nuts fairly easily. Heli-coil fixed it but I do recommend checking torque spec.

ThirdPedal

Thanks, Mike. I heard horror stories about those, so I was careful, but I have good news to report. I fixed the problem, and I can only explain how, but not why.

I wanted to take a look at the castor blocks to see if I could identify if there was anything wrong, so I went to remove them. I loosened one bolt, and before I could loosen the other, I had to stretch my legs for a moment. When I got up, I bounced the car and the noise was lessened dramatically! Intrigued, I tightened that bolt down (so nothing slipped), and then loosened and re-tightened the other bolt. Noise completely gone on that side! So, I went to the other side and repeated the procedure. Once again, it completely alleviated the noise!

I have no idea why simply loosening and tightening the bolts got rid of the noise, but it did and I couldn't be happier that I don't have to replace anything. I am stumped, but quite relieved at the same time. Thanks for everyone's help in trying to diagnose my issue.

A word of caution to others that my stumble on this thread. Don't go loosening suspension bolts without examining the potential consequences. Loosening the wrong bolt of combination of bolts could easily allow your alignment to slip.

Mike C.

Interesting... Hopefully it stays quiet.

ThirdPedal

Yea, hopefully. We'll see as time goes on.

ninefiveone

Third Pedal - Resurrecting this to see if your clunk is still gone?

I have an identical clunk in my passenger front suspension with the exact same symptoms... doesn't clunk on big bumps, just on subtle transfer of weight, etc.

Fredrik H

I have the exact same clunk, with aftermarket solid castor blocks. Seems the tolerances are off between the excentric bolt and the sleeves, the hole is too big. No matter how much torque I apply to the bolt, there is still play that can be felt if I rock the a-arm and keep a finger on the bolt/castor block. These are from a reputable vendor so I'm quite surprised. Anyone have experience with this?