944 n/a supercharger set up help!
 

i have plans to install an M90 eaton supercharger in my 83' 944. My main questions is what should be done about the ECU? standalone? Wolf EMS? Microsquirt?

i dont plan to run high boost, until the transaxle gets swapped and a few other things are done, ive pocked around the forums here and seen a lot of different set ups, im not a guru with the engine management stuff so all help is appreciated:p

you can tune the stock dme with some additional software/hardware. very easy to do and understand.

search these boards for username "Rogue_Ant", hes the one who unlocked this all. i have done the tuning successfully and am doing the M90 thing as well, although for higher boost on an NA engine.

thanks for the info, this should prove very helpful

just out of curiosity how much has your M90 set up run you $?

and how abouts did you mount everything up? my AC is removed so i have a lot of space and ive seen a few other 944's with the M90 in it

I got a used M90 from a junkyard for $200.

I left the DME alone, and wired in an MSD-6-BTM ignition which allows you to retard the timing of the motor, on top of the usual multi-spark discharge and also interchangeable rev-limiter like most MSD units.

I used 951/S2 green-top injectors, and a boost/vac controlled rising-rate adjustable FPR to change air/fuel ratios.. just remember to use a good wideband to monitor.

And that's really about it. The bracket for the blower, and the intercooler piping and some other misc small pieces were all custom made. I put a stock 951 intercooler in the front.

Pretty simple setup.

Good luck and please ask if you have more questions.. :)

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1_1371copy.jpg

^ sweet setup. Have you dynoed it?

Thanks! And no, I actually blew it up first. :banghead:

During my tuning stages I was messing a lot with the fuel pressure and timing adjustments, and suddenly the car started running real bad, and smoke was steadily pumping from under the hood.

At the time I was using a smaller Ford Racing pulley, and also a much larger crank pulley modified from a GMC truck. So it was pushing 13psi into the motor as soon as you put your foot on the pedal, even right from idle. And this is all on a stock, old worn out motor to begin with.

Long story short, I did a compression test, and one cylinder was super low. I think I killed the rings in this cylinder because my crankcase vent smokes like exhaust as soon as you fire the car up, and it runs like its dropped one cylinder.

Anyhow, I picked up a set of 951 internals, which are lower compression and have forged rods, so this should help significantly.


When you mess with fire you're likely to get burned!! :banghead: :rtfm: :D :D :D

that might not be so bad in the long run.... since you're just a few miles from Mike Gokey/Ft. Lauderdale.

Ft. Laudy is still a few hours south, but pardon me for not knowing who Mike Gokey is... Or is this the guy running a Vortech procharged 3.0L stroker motor?

Yeah i may go down this route instead, sounds pretty straight forward and wont really break the bank.

two questions though!
1. which wideband AFM kit did you use?

2. where do i get the pulley that attaches to the crankshaft and the belt that will work for this application?

We used the AEM UEGO wideband kit, which comes with the sensor and gauge and all the wiring. It's universal which is nice.

For the crank pulley we found a GMC crank pulley that had the same amount of ribs, and cut the center out of it and welded it over the stock 944 crank pulley. So the outer diameter has been increased. As for the belt... just use the old string method to measure an approximate length, and then just buy one that is the right length and ribs! We also used a small Mazda idler pulley with a slotted hole as the belt tensioner.

i guess im a bit confused about the pulley system, will there just be one belt running off the crank to the blower with a tensioner or will it pass over other things? i know i should :rtfm:

Tuning in...
The stock NA engine pistons will not like anything over 15psi, and really you should keep boost to 12psi or less (especially on pump fuel).
Knock is extremely important - and will kill any motor quickly. So tune it correctly - I would look into a J&S Safeguard for added knock protection & tuning information.

The DIY tuning would be a pretty good solution for your proposed setup, much more tunable then a Rising-Rate FPR and BTM.

-Rogue

Mike has done about 25 V8 chevy swaps. his cars run well.

Do your lights still retract? It looks like the air filter might be getting in the way in that pic.

Also, did you have to move your alternator to make room?

yeah im on the fence right now whether to do the self tuning route that you have done or go with the MSD-6 BTM and FPR both setups seem to work very well

my 44 is an 83' so it does not have a chip, would i have to swap with a DME off a later year car or go the FRwilks route by having one installed?