MichaelK

I have an older(1984) 944 that stalls out and doesn't like to start without a shot of starter fluid when it is cold. It is summer time so I don't mean actually that cold, just when it first gets going. I can keep it running with the accelerator or I can adjust the idle to the point where it won't stall but then as it warms it creeps up and is clearly too high. If I back it down after it is warm I get back to the can't stay running when it is cold problem.

I have redone most of the vacuum hoses and a a starter fluid test for leaks in the system didn't show any. In my research it appears to be the idle control valve which opens an additional circuit for air into the intake when the car is cold and then closes it when it warms up. I took it out, cleaned it with carb cleaner and WD40 but I couldn't disassemble it to make sure that I did any good. I looked for a replacement on E-bay and other places and it looks like they only have the 3 wire newer style ones. Is it possible to rewire the newer style to work? If so what do I have to do?

MichaelK

Also is there some trick to removing the wheel that drives the power steering pump? I put a 24 MM socket on it, popped the car into 5th gear and turned. This nearly took the car off the ramps without loosening the bolt even a little a bit. My shop manual doesn't mention this part even existing so I am not sure how to get it off.

krystar

which valve do u think it's broken? there's two. a ISV and a AAV

Idle Stabilizer Valve is the one that helps with cold idle


Aux Air Valve is the one that helps with loaded idling (with AC on)




in addition to the screw that control idle rpm. u can also adjust the idle AF ratio on the AFM. it's an allen key adjustment. if i i remember correctly, clockwise to richen. counterclockwise to lean. a cold engine will like richer mixture to help it along

krystar

which wheel are u talking about. the one that looks like a cone? that 24mm is the main crank pulley. it's torqued to 150ft lbs so not going to come off easily. u need a flywheel lock and a big breaker bar or an impact gun

if u trust your clutch to stay intact (big risk if u didn't service it yourself), put car into gear, have someone hold the brakes or yank the ebrake.

MichaelK

It is the first one. It doesn't look exactly like that but it is definitely not the second one. The part I am talking about is under where the airbox would be if the PO hadn't removed it and put in a cone filter. THe second part is under the intake manifold right? Where do I adjust the AF mixture? I though that with an injected engine the computer handled that. I am a classic bike guy so this is my first car and first fuel injected engine.

I didn't service this car but replacing the clutch is on the list of eventual tasks so if it breaks then I will deal. The part I am talking about is a wheel in the front of the engine that must connect to the crankshaft. All 4 belts (Power steering, alternator/AC, balance shaft, and timing) are driven at this basic location. There are 4 gears (2 gears and 2 wheels really) there and I need them off to get the plastic cover that is behind the timing belt off to redo the water pump.

I will try chocking the wheels, slipping it into gear, having someone hold the brakes and then really going to town on it tonight.

krystar

the AFM is this. if it was on the car, the front of car would be the left side of the picture. the hole on top right of the picture is the AF adjustment





if u don't have a service history for the clutch, i would not recommend u use the brakes. if your clutch breaks, that's like a 20hr book job to fix it. very expensive if you don't do it yourself. ask locally to borrow somebody's flywheel lock. where are u located?

MichaelK

I am in Baltimore MD. I will try adjusting that screw once I have it back together.

The engine should be capable of delivering well over 150 LB ft of torque to the clutch under certain situations right? I plan on putting in the V8 like lovemyp-car did and that will deliver 350-400LB ft of torque to the clutch which I thought it could handle.

krystar

engine was only rated 140tq...but you're going to be putting more than that on. if there's any rust or anything, it's gonna be more than 150ftlb to break it loose. i just had a big friend undo mine. it took all his effort on a breaker bar with floor jack handle extension (that was visibly bending) and me putting my weight on the other side of the engine to counter the force.

putting a v8 in, you're going to be using LS1 clutch, not a 944 clutch.

MichaelK

gotcha. I borrowed a flywheel lock from a local shop, put it on and loosened it right up. I guess I got lucky because it was relatively easy once I got the breaker bar on it. I may have loosened it with my previous efforts though.