running_cold924

honestly, i'd pull the both cams out and get the exhaust cam magnafluxed at a machine shop to see if there are anymore cracks on the teeth. i'd run it with one tooth missing but anymore than that is getting iffy... Like i say (not trying to be a salesman here) get my cam once the other (exhaust) cam checks out and put her back together. then, keep an eye out for an exhaust cam in the meantime to put in it when you get a chance later in the year. Use your new tensioner for piece of mind.

I'm not saying go out and romp on it all day long because that though will be there burning in the back of your mind everytime you tach it out at 7K, "what happened to that missing tooth" and "I'm still missing a tooth on a cam, I wonder how long it will hold"

I'm just saying you can go out and drive the car and have fun with it, it just buys you some time to look for one and save some dough.

theykallmekem

since you have the engine in pieces, and your not driving it anyway, just fix it this once and drive it again. my car is in several pieces right now, and im getting everything while im down there/while its in pieces so when i drive it, i drive it. just my two cents. im assuming your car is in your avatar, if it is, then it is hella nice. enjoy it.

Porsche16V944

i'm going to buy "runningcolds" cams, got my tensioner, new chain is $43 from my porsche dealer (my cost, good to work for a VW/audi dealer at times like this) and that should get me going for a while... i like the idea of getting the one cam checked for minor cracks at a machine shop. Depending on which one is better, i'll use either mine with the one missing tooth, or "runningcolds" exhaust cam if the pitting passes inspection.

thanks for the help/ideas guys!

(and yes, thats the car in my advitar... thanks for the compliment! )

Porsche16V944

just a quick question before disassembly.... where should the two lines on the camshafts be to locate TDC? I remember i read it before but can't remember where it was exactly, i think it was perfectly center of the head pointing up

ALSO, looking into removing this cam gear. Clark's garage makes it sound like it takes nothing for it to get completely screwed up messing up ignition timing beyond repair.... When i go to 944online and check out the picture/parts, they all slide onto the cam over a woodruff key.... how could the timing get messed up? Or what am i missing here?

Thanks,
Jeff

Porsche16V944

anyone?

Jay W

I think the cam marks point up but a little in towards each other when the engine is at TDC. Set TDC like any 8 valve engine using the marks on the flywheel and note the orientation of the cams before you pull anything apart.
The cam timing can get messed up if you are not careful with the bolts that hold the distributor rotor on. Under those bolts there is a part that is not keyed to the cam gear and it can slip around when the bolts are loose. This allows for further timing adjustment beyond the marks on the cam gear. Take off the distributor rotor and put the bolts back in, I cant remember if you have to shim things up to tighten the slip piece to the cam gear or not, you will be able to tell. If you change the orientation of the slip piece vs the cam gear then it has to be reset with dial gauges or else the engine will have no power. I let mine slip because I didnt understand the system either and I spent a whole day with rigging up dial gauges and resetting things. Pain in the butt really. No I do not know what the "slip piece" is really called but when you are looking at it you will see it.

Porsche16V944

ok so if i remove the ign rotor, put the 3 bolts back in, undo the center pulley bolt, THEN i can slide it all off without any issues??

Jay W

Its been three years since I did all this so it is a bit fuzzy to me. But I do know that putting the rotor bolts back in will hold the cam timing to belt timing in the proper location. I cant remember what stays together and what comes apart as far as the cam gear on the cam etc. I do remember that there are bolts beyond the cam gear that have to come out to get the front bearing carrier off so the cam gear had to have come off. They made that better on the 968 by putting holes in the cam gear so the bolts behind are accessible without removing the gear. I am thinking those rotor bolts were way too long without the rotor there and I had to use a whole lot of washers to shim it up. If you can find shorter bolts that will work there it may be easier.

Jay W

And be careful with the cam bolt, I rounded mine out and had to grind it off. Easier to do on a 16 valve engine but while I was grinding I messed up the washer behind it and had to mill it flat again. Do you have a flywheel lock on the engine to hold it at TDC?

Porsche16V944

no i dont have a flywheel lock... the crank shouldnt turn though i dont think

Jay W

Its just safer any time the timing belt comes off to keep the crank locked in place. Be careful without the lock. And I am remembering now that the rotor bolts will hold the slip piece to the back of the cam gear when the cam gear comes off the cam.

Porsche16V944

ya thats what ive been reading... i didnt know i'd need washers though.... i'll bring some home with me tonight i guess

running_cold924

shipped man, check your pms

Porsche16V944

thanks man!

Luis de Prat

On a 16 valve engine I would not mess with the cam timing without using a flywheel lock after setting it at TDC.

That's twice as many valves that can get bent.

BTW, if you haven't already, check out this site and bookmark it for future reference. The 'Garage Shop Manual' has everything you need to know about this and other repairs on the 944:

http://www.clarks-garage.com