BRB_85.5_NA

My loud lifter noise at startup which goes away after a short warm up is now associated with coolant in the oil. Stethoscope shows the noise is definitely in the head/cam cover, around #3 cylinder/valve pair.

I fear that the head is cracked, but I really don't know until I start pulling it apart. Any ideas on what you think this is? As I go pulling it apart, anything to look for in particular? If I do have to pull the head, what are some cheap mods that can be done on the head (if repairable, or on a new one) to get a little more performance (e.g. polish/port)?

Thanks

FSTPRSH

I had a similar sound...CLACK CLACK CLACK CLack clack clack cla...I was known for some of the best oil/coolant milkshakes around. My bearings went before the head though. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> My seals went on the oil cooler...

BRB_85.5_NA

Possible Scenario (?): My oil seals have gone, causing the milkshake. The frothy oil has lost its "hydraulic" properties, causing the lifter noise on a slightly dirty or worn but otherwise good lifter ("follower"). Diagnose: do an oil change and run it for a while, see if lifter noise goes away...?

What do you think?

How tough is it to change out oil cooler seals (easier than pulling the head, right?)?

B

FSTPRSH

You'd have to pull the oil cooler. All an oil (and coolant, cause oil is there too) change will do is clean it out for a few miles. It will right back there tomorrow. I don't have my stuff with me now, but I think there are two seals on the cooler. The cooler itself is inside the housing (where your oil filter screws onto incase you din't know). That seems to be 97% of oil/coolant mix on these cars. I'll check on that when I get home and post the info if someone else hasn't by then.

-EDIT-
Mods to head are commonly...mill deck surface (make the combustion chamber slightly smaller), valve jobs, P&P (not very beneficial for a stock engine), combustion chamber polish (reduced turbulence and slightly less chance of detonation). Could also consider a cam change while it's off and if finances allow.

-ANOTHER EDIT-
If you are worried about a cracked head, have it magnafluxed (check for cracks by using magnets and magnetic powder, makes lines where a crank is).

BRB_85.5_NA

Thanks for the replies--
I was going to do the oil change just to see if the valve lifter noise went away--then I'd be fairly certain that the noise is a result of the oil's loss of viscosity or whatever and has nothing to do with the head. I'm going this route, since, as you say, 97% of the oil contamination by coolant happens in the oil cooler seals (which, after a brief glance at the Haynes manual, seems easy to do though a bear to get at with the engine in vehicle), it's a cheap diagnosis, and these seals are now 17 years old.

You just made my weekend look a lot more enjoyable, if the oil change works...

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> B

BRB_85.5_NA

OK--after looking at the oil cooler housing:

Has anyone taken one of these things apart with the engine in the car? It looks to me that you have to take the exhaust manifold off to get it out, and even then it's iffy. Help?

Thanks, B

Perry 951

Never personally done it in the car, but it can be done in a few hours. The haynes manual, and facotry manuals, have the replacement procedures.

Eli Gunn

I've done it with the engine in the car.
It is a bitch. Remove the heat shield, remove the oil pressure sender. I suggest alot of cursing.

Simkid 944

Oil cooler can be removed with engine in car and without removing exhaust manifold or oil pressure sender, I've done it. You'll need to unbolt and pull down anti roll bar mount and pull power steering line to get the unit out from underneath, and it takes a while to manouvre it out... but it WILL come. Seal replacement is a doddle once cooler is off car. You'll need 1/4" drive sockets with just the right length extensions to remove and retighten the cooler mounting bolts...best of luck!

Mongo

944 engines scare me when it comes to the mixing problem. I've always heard the typical oil cooler seals going. I had the work done on my car at only 60,000 mi I hope I NEVER have to do it again... <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />

<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

tifosiman

Changing the oil cooler seals is a b*tch. I started to work on mine this summer, then realized I was better off paying someone to do it. I've got the special tool if you try to do it yourself and need to borrow it.

It sounds to me that the oil cooler seals are definetly your problem. Remember to fully clean or replace all of your hoses and clean your overflow tank and radiator when finished.

My car is gone <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> . I watched the flatbed truck carry it away yesterday. Ken is going to tear into the transmission Monday and let me know how bad it really is. MAn, after sitting for over three weeks I started it yesterday before it left and it fired up and idled like a champ.

I'm going thru withdrawal symptoms! Anyone have a spare 944 I can drive?!? My daily driver just isn't doing anything for me.......

Tifo

david fracolli

I have done the oil cooler seals three times now and you do not have to remove the exhaust manifold but it does make the job a lot easier. I think the 1st time I did it it took me about 6 hours and now I can do it in under 4.
Good luck
Dave Fracolli
85.5 944

BRB_85.5_NA

Thanks for all the replies gentlemen. I did the oil change with a quart of ATF and the lifter noise slowly went away. Oil cooler seal kit coming from Paragon and I'll tackle it all next weekend.

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> B