macho_mango

Hi all,
I have a water leak in my 1984 944, sounds like its a fairly common problem with a crack in the firewall where the clutch pedal bracket mounts. Does anyone know where I can find info on the repair? For now, I am circumventing the problem by redirecting all the water outflow out further so it doesn't actually run down the firewall, but I am interested in a more definitive repair
Thanks,
Cheers.

Rich Sandor

Here's what I did on my 968 (same thing) - scroll down for pics:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-repair-2.html

macho_mango

Thanks for the info! Its sort of cold now, I'll give it a shot later when it gets warmer.

gt1scca

Here's (a prototype of) what I'm working on...

Spans the driver side firewall including areas around brake and clutch master cylinders. The pic shows a .090" steel plate setup for use with a 7/8" Wilwood clutch MC, Wilwood dual brake MCs, and Tilton balance bar #72-610.

An aluminum version of the plate is also in the works, which will include a custom length brake pushrod, and a new 25mm longer clutch MC pushrod clevis.

Stainless, anyone?

Both are being developed as BOLT-ON solutions, with minimal bonding required. The steel version may also be perimeter-welded, or drilled and plug-welded (a matter of how involved the repair needs to be).

Several choices as far as design and installation, at a fraction of the $1600 repair bill I have seen posted...

Grandpa#3

Looks like a great design. Not too sure about the aluminum plate against steel as dissimilar metal corrosion will set in if not properly coated with a corrosion inhibitor compound. If I had a turbo I'd stand in line for a SS plate. The mild steel welds are the first place rust sets in if not cleaned good with a wire brush and treated. Your instructions would have to lay it all out simple for those who do not know the proper prep and painting.

Cheers,
Larry

Rich Sandor

You should not use the term 'bolt-on' and 'solution' in the same sentence for this application.

If you already HAVE the problem, there is no 'bolt-on' solution, welding *will be* required.

If you want to PREVENT the problem, then maybe bolt-on is an applicable term.

gt1scca

I'm usually better versed...

For lack of a more adequate expression..."Oooops".

I do, however agree on the welding. I have contemplated SEM adhesives, seam sealers, etc. to aid the integrity of a bolt-on plate. Until this post, I had not personally seen literal cracks in the firewall. Flex issues have been mentioned to me, and after seeing what actually happens, all I can say is the "bolt-on" idea has been laid to rest.

Thanks Rich!

Now that we cleared that up, a quality urethane etching primer / sealer and matching body color base / clear (once the welds are properly dressed) would finalize a highly effective and aesthetically pleasing "solution".

Sound better?

A side note:
These are being laser cut for accuracy, and the .dxf file is very "mobile"...
HeHeHe...

Charlie

I would be interested if the price is right.

hacker-pschorr

Damn it - the longer my 944S is apart the more things I "discover" need some attention before the motor goes in.

Well, keep us posted since I'm 99% sure mine isn't cracked,,,,,yet?

misnblu

Subscribed.

gt1scca

The next plate will be cut after the first of the year. .090" Stainless would not require custom pushrods, as there is at least 25mm of adjustment on both. Early vs. late brake line differences (locations) will dictate a slight adjustment along the top edge of the plate, but everything else fits the 944 firewall very nicely.

Mike C.

I made up a doubler plate of 0.125" steel and made the master cylinder a stressed member via a u-bolt over the forward end that bolts through the inner fender. I posted a couple of pictures of this in a thread somewhere but couldn't re-locate it....

Mike C.

photos...

xschop

If .09" steel OR 1/4" Billet alloy plate is used with an epoxy over the entire surface then bolted to the factory cereal bowl and clutch master bolt areas, That would be a true bolt on solution IMO. What Greg has designed there should have been done years ago and should be mandatory when going to a 7/8" Clutch master

Luis de Prat

In my 951 I had the cracked firewall repaired by the OPC body shop.

After completing the job, they explained that in addition to the cracks visible from the engine bay while operating the clutch pedal, when they started pulling things apart in the driver side footwell they found a spiderweb of cracks.

This made the task a lot more labor intensive than just the 2 or 3 cracks that were visible at first, and contributed to the significant cost of the repair (€1,700).

One nice thing is that they did such a nice job on the external firewall, welding a 0.5mm sheet of steel, doing bodywork, painting, etc., that you can't tell at all that it's been repaired.

I had the clutch pedal spring and bushings replaced as well and although it's still a 'harder' clutch than my S2's, it's now got a more precise feel to it than when it was wobbling against the cracked firewall.

Needless to say, this is a real Achilles heel in the 944 chassis.