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Just wish to revive this thread, as I am trying to find the earth for my 944S2, and the link to pdf above as expired. I have tried looking down behind the engine block from above, but can't see any wires... guessing I need to lift the car?
Ah yes... found both now, and can get to both quite easily... Ground 'B' seems to have a nut on it rather than a bolt (a little tight, so trying some WD40), while 'A' has a bolt. While I am going through the grounds, are these two also related to the instrument cluster grounding?
so here is a photo prior to my cleaning the ground points... should I also cut back the wire to find 'fresh' copper?... (yes, I know I should tape-up the housing openings to prevent the bolt/nut falling in ).
Those don't look too bad; the copper wire strands look fine. For sure, a few scrapes on the flat connectors with some sandpaper and re-assembly with dielectric grease will make it like new.. but.. I don't see any major issues. Why were you looking for these grounds?
Those don't look too bad; the copper wire strands look fine. For sure, a few scrapes on the flat connectors with some sandpaper and re-assembly with dielectric grease will make it like new.. but.. I don't see any major issues. Why were you looking for these grounds?
Just going over a near enough 30yr old car that has been neglected... don't have any real running issues apart from very slight bunny hop at approx 2000rpm... was much worse before I refreshed the AFM and replaced the O2 sensor and ICU... but maybe better earth could help too :P
Good plan. I doubt those bellhousing grounds are a source of current issues, though maybe other smaller ground connections--especially on the chassis around the headlights--might be more corroded and whatnot.
This bunny hop... are you referring to a slight surge when decelerating? When slowing down off-throttle, there's a moment around 1200rpm that the injectors get turned back on. This results in a bit of a surge, though if idle is set properly and all else being equal, it should be barely noticeable. Mind you, I've been living with a pretty annoying surge all my ownership; setting the idle too low has an almost stalling effect and too high a little surge. I can't seem to find the perfect spot!
Good plan. I doubt those bellhousing grounds are a source of current issues, though maybe other smaller ground connections--especially on the chassis around the headlights--might be more corroded and whatnot.
This bunny hop... are you referring to a slight surge when decelerating? When slowing down off-throttle, there's a moment around 1200rpm that the injectors get turned back on. This results in a bit of a surge, though if idle is set properly and all else being equal, it should be barely noticeable. Mind you, I've been living with a pretty annoying surge all my ownership; setting the idle too low has an almost stalling effect and too high a little surge. I can't seem to find the perfect spot!
If your "bunny hop" means something else, well then, that's a whole lotta useless answer I just posted
Thanks for your input. The bunny hop is when just 'feathering' the throttle - not on the throttle but not off, and only around 2000rpm. I have no noticeable hop apart from say idle in 1st gear trying to be light on the throttle... but that also may be my right foot control :P
Got it. Might still be something to do with the fuel injector cut-off / turn-on action: as you "feather" the throttle, the DME alternates between cutting out the injectors and re-instating them. It seems this action is most evident around the 2000 rpm (or less) area.
This morning, on my way in, I too noticed some slight hopping around 2000rpm while gently "feathering" the throttle. I don't know if they did this new, but it seems there's a lot of talk of this aggressive DME fuel cut-out / turn-on action all over the 'net; I'm thinking this is due to 80s electronics.
It is so slight though that many might not even notice
EDIT: And there are some who suggest they have no such issue, esp with certain aftermarket chips
Got it. Might still be something to do with the fuel injector cut-off / turn-on action: as you "feather" the throttle, the DME alternates between cutting out the injectors and re-instating them. It seems this action is most evident around the 2000 rpm (or less) area.
This morning, on my way in, I too noticed some slight hopping around 2000rpm while gently "feathering" the throttle. I don't know if they did this new, but it seems there's a lot of talk of this aggressive DME fuel cut-out / turn-on action all over the 'net; I'm thinking this is due to 80s electronics.
It is so slight though that many might not even notice
EDIT: And there are some who suggest they have no such issue, esp with certain aftermarket chips
I have now cleaned them all and await the Spring to test it
Did cleaning the bell housing ground wired fix the issue?
Thanks!
Cleaning all the grounds certainly fixed many issues, including reducing the bunny hop... however I also cleaned the injector connectors with electrical contact cleaner, along with all the other electrical connectors related to the fuel/air system. I then also cleaned out the Idle control valve, and throttle control body. Now it seems the bunny hop has been reduced greatly... only evident if I am very severe on and off the throttle at 2000rpm. I do however think my ICV is leaking (expensive to replace), so that may still be causing an issue with too much air reaching the intake and the DME not really understanding what is happening (as the ICV should be closed), but I don't know enough to say I am correct with this assumption :P
PS.. you can actually re-seal the ICV instead of buying a new one; I remember reading the procedure on Rennlist here... I think it's Tom's write-up. Do a search. I wish I had: I replaced my ICV with a new one... and.... threw out the old. Geezzz
PS.. you can actually re-seal the ICV instead of buying a new one; I remember reading the procedure on Rennlist here...
I summarized and pinned the ICV re-seal procedure on my Pinterest board <here> for anyone that’s interested. Do not apply any silicon on the new o-ring, some light oil applied with a finger is sufficient. The part number of the o-ring is in the pin, it’s a military spec number and it’s available as a 2-pack on Amazon if you search.
I summarized and pinned the ICV re-seal procedure on my Pinterest board <here> for anyone that’s interested. Do not apply any silicon on the new o-ring, some light oil applied with a finger is sufficient. The part number of the o-ring is in the pin, it’s a military spec number and it’s available as a 2-pack on Amazon if you search.
I was under the impression, after many hours of research, that the 1990 S2 ICV could not be taken apart and re-sealed without a lot of hacking... this was confirmed when I removed it and found that it was one entire piece and doesn't look like the one in the above mentioned Pintrest link. The poster here who gave me that info said that it would be easier to order one from Bosch... at great cost... which I am not doing for the moment.
02-15-2019, 01:10 PM
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