Cass944

ok... well i verified that the injectors are spraying with a bottle


but still no start.... the tach wiggles while cranking and i have compression. i took some of the gas and lit it on fire so it still definitely wants to burn but that doesnt really mean its still good. So i guess the only thing left is to verify spark... whats a good way to do that? i have 12volts on both posts of the coil with the key on. i know i can just pull out a plug and ground it to the block to to test for spark there but what about testing the coil? can i just plug a spark plug right into the coil wire and test that too to see if its the distributor?

i dont have a way to test fuel pressure right now...

xsboost90

if the plugs are sparking you prob have a good coil. Is it not firing at all? Double check TDC and cam position. Make sure your afm is plugged in right. Make sure your alternator wiring harness is not backwards- ask me how i know.

Cass944

does it matter that i dont have the lighting harness hooked up at all? theres a bunch of grounds that are behind the headlights and stuff in that harness that are not hooked up to anything right now.

doesnt seem like that would keep the engine from firing up but you never know.

the alternator harness is just the one wire isnt it? how could it be backwards? if i had the exciter wires plug backwards the starter wouldnt work with the key

Cass944

ok so it has spark now... i took the distributor off to check continuity and it was fine... so then i tried cranking again and its popping and stuff now.

so now i have a feeling i have the plug wires backwards or something because it seems like its backfiring.

so i guess i have 2 questions.

at TDC the rotor inside the distributor cap should be facing straight down correct?

and which cylinder is #1? the one closest tot he front of the car or the one closest to the firewall?

Cass944

oh man was way off...

42
31

i thought it was
34
12

krazykarl

#1 is the one closest to the front of the car. Not sure if it's the same, but on my S2 the rotor is pointed to the upper left contact at TDC.

krystar

heh giving the wrong cylinder spark will def cause some popping backfire.

Cass944

oh well battery is dead now... so ill have to wait till tomorrow to try again.

krystar

lol brett, yer just not having any luck at all

Cass944

im really not.... hoping that changes in a few minutes though

Cass944

ok well it started... and the oil pressure gauge is pegged as high as it will go above 5. so i thought maybe i had the leads to the pressure sensor switched. so i switched them and i get the same thing. I pulled the oil filter off and theres plenty of oil in it....

not sure what to check next. i dont want to run it not knowing whats up with the oil pressure.

krystar

hmmm i think if the sender fails it's supposed to peg 5.

check the gauge ground too.

951Saga

Maybe I missed something… were you having oil pressure problems before?
Is the needle at 0 with the key is in the ON position, (not running)?
My gauge pegs at idle when cold, but runs just above 2 idling when at temp and at or above 5 when running down the road.

nate944

Well, there must be something in the air today because I just got mine running after replacing a fuel pump and speed/reference sensors. With the test pipe installed it runs like a scalded cat. It is swaying like a drunk while on a test run though...anyone have suggestions why it might be doing that? Maybe a disconnected sway bar?

Cass944

the needle is pegged at about where 6 would be on the gauge with the key turned on. with the cxar started it does not move.

it is also pegged at max when the sensor is completely unplugged with car on or off.

its a new-ish sensor... i do have another sensor i could try i guess.

can sounds ok, the injectors are really loud but thats about the only strange sound i hear. ran it for about 6-7 minutes and it got pretty warm. the oil filter is nice and warm so oil is making it to the finter at least. as far as the rest of the engine... im really not sure