alllllmost done.... build pics
#196
Drifting
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ok... well i verified that the injectors are spraying with a bottle
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v372/Cass944/1246e8ef.jpg)
but still no start.... the tach wiggles while cranking and i have compression. i took some of the gas and lit it on fire so it still definitely wants to burn but that doesnt really mean its still good. So i guess the only thing left is to verify spark... whats a good way to do that? i have 12volts on both posts of the coil with the key on. i know i can just pull out a plug and ground it to the block to to test for spark there but what about testing the coil? can i just plug a spark plug right into the coil wire and test that too to see if its the distributor?
i dont have a way to test fuel pressure right now...
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v372/Cass944/1246e8ef.jpg)
but still no start.... the tach wiggles while cranking and i have compression. i took some of the gas and lit it on fire so it still definitely wants to burn but that doesnt really mean its still good. So i guess the only thing left is to verify spark... whats a good way to do that? i have 12volts on both posts of the coil with the key on. i know i can just pull out a plug and ground it to the block to to test for spark there but what about testing the coil? can i just plug a spark plug right into the coil wire and test that too to see if its the distributor?
i dont have a way to test fuel pressure right now...
#197
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if the plugs are sparking you prob have a good coil. Is it not firing at all? Double check TDC and cam position. Make sure your afm is plugged in right. Make sure your alternator wiring harness is not backwards- ask me how i know.
#198
Drifting
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does it matter that i dont have the lighting harness hooked up at all? theres a bunch of grounds that are behind the headlights and stuff in that harness that are not hooked up to anything right now.
doesnt seem like that would keep the engine from firing up but you never know.
the alternator harness is just the one wire isnt it? how could it be backwards? if i had the exciter wires plug backwards the starter wouldnt work with the key
doesnt seem like that would keep the engine from firing up but you never know.
the alternator harness is just the one wire isnt it? how could it be backwards? if i had the exciter wires plug backwards the starter wouldnt work with the key
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v372/Cass944/798b1a2f.jpg)
#199
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ok so it has spark now... i took the distributor off to check continuity and it was fine... so then i tried cranking again and its popping and stuff now.
so now i have a feeling i have the plug wires backwards or something because it seems like its backfiring.
so i guess i have 2 questions.
at TDC the rotor inside the distributor cap should be facing straight down correct?
and which cylinder is #1? the one closest tot he front of the car or the one closest to the firewall?
so now i have a feeling i have the plug wires backwards or something because it seems like its backfiring.
so i guess i have 2 questions.
at TDC the rotor inside the distributor cap should be facing straight down correct?
and which cylinder is #1? the one closest tot he front of the car or the one closest to the firewall?
#206
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ok well it started... and the oil pressure gauge is pegged as high as it will go above 5. so i thought maybe i had the leads to the pressure sensor switched. so i switched them and i get the same thing. I pulled the oil filter off and theres plenty of oil in it....
not sure what to check next. i dont want to run it not knowing whats up with the oil pressure.
not sure what to check next. i dont want to run it not knowing whats up with the oil pressure.
#208
Burning Brakes
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Maybe I missed something… were you having oil pressure problems before?
Is the needle at 0 with the key is in the ON position, (not running)?
My gauge pegs at idle when cold, but runs just above 2 idling when at temp and at or above 5 when running down the road.
Is the needle at 0 with the key is in the ON position, (not running)?
My gauge pegs at idle when cold, but runs just above 2 idling when at temp and at or above 5 when running down the road.
#209
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Well, there must be something in the air today because I just got mine running after replacing a fuel pump and speed/reference sensors. With the test pipe installed it runs like a scalded cat. It is swaying like a drunk while on a test run though...anyone have suggestions why it might be doing that? Maybe a disconnected sway bar?
#210
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the needle is pegged at about where 6 would be on the gauge with the key turned on. with the cxar started it does not move.
it is also pegged at max when the sensor is completely unplugged with car on or off.
its a new-ish sensor... i do have another sensor i could try i guess.
can sounds ok, the injectors are really loud but thats about the only strange sound i hear. ran it for about 6-7 minutes and it got pretty warm. the oil filter is nice and warm so oil is making it to the finter at least. as far as the rest of the engine... im really not sure
it is also pegged at max when the sensor is completely unplugged with car on or off.
its a new-ish sensor... i do have another sensor i could try i guess.
can sounds ok, the injectors are really loud but thats about the only strange sound i hear. ran it for about 6-7 minutes and it got pretty warm. the oil filter is nice and warm so oil is making it to the finter at least. as far as the rest of the engine... im really not sure