Perculator00

Didn't know the last time my brake fluid was changed so used my power bleeder, did all 4 brake/calipers.

Then did the slave cylinder, and before I did the slave cylinder, i boosted the pressure back up to around 13/15psi on the bleeder.

after trying to bleed the slave cylinder at first, i had to get a good turn on the 7mm screw, but lots of dirty lookin fluid followed by a loud sound almost like air i think. the fluid never dropped lower than mid/upper in the reservoir.

the Clutch is stuck to the floor, u can put it back in up position, but requires you to lift the pedal. When the pedal goes down, it firmly strong goes down with weight feeling like...

last, i opened the bleeder screw on the slave once again with a tub over it, and a small amount of the Gold ATE looking brake fluid i used to flush the system came out, not much though, followed by nothing really. (at this time the power bleeder was NOT hooked up)

Any help is greatly appreciated...im no true guru mechanic, but i have basic maintenance skills.

m73m95

I Think when bleeding the brakes you let the fluid go below the clutch hose in the reservoir and got some air in the clutch system.

Hook the bleeder back up, pressurize it, and bleed the clutch again. Should be fine.

Perculator00

What pressure do you recommend?

it says not to go over 20 psi. i used about 15-20 when doing the brakes.

BTW: Should I leave the clutch pedal in the down or up position now?

thanks

m73m95

same as brakes. 15lbs is plenty.

Leave the clutch pedal up, and don't mess with it until good, clean fluid comes out of the bleeder screw. be VERY SURE you don't let the fluid in the reservoir go below the clutch hose in the side of the reservoir.

Perculator00

I will pour the brake fluid I have left into the bleeder then before I hook it up and pressurize it....is the high pitch sound and clear looking substance i saw/heard come out when i did the slave normal?

thanks again

T_Glass_27

Watch this video... Its an old trick to easily bleed the system. Works like a charm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

Perculator00

thx man

Perculator00

Thanks for your advice man.

So, I hooked the bleeder back up (made sure the clutch pedal was "up") and pumped pressure into the reservoir, got down under the slave cylinder and opened her up....at first....I noticed a good amount of air bubbles coming out followed by that loud/high pitch air sound thingy....so the reservoir was still right below the max line, but I was not getting good consistent fluid out of the slave. Then, I disconnected the bleeder, poured a tad bit into the reservoir to the top, and poured the remaining fluid into the bleeder tank, then pressurized again...this time...nice/solid/clear fluid was coming out and I closed it when I noticed....

Clutch seems to be operating fine now

What I dont understand is, when you turn the slave screw just a tad more after you first open it....why was so much air and that high pitch sound coming out?

thanks for the help

originalmotorhead

Not to hyjack your post but how did you get to the slave cylinder to bleed it? Do you have to remove the starter ? I've looked a few times but could not tell how on earth you get to it. I have to replace the line that connects the brake resivor to the clutch master (because mine is dry rotting) and I will need to bleed it after.

Tom

marky522

While I have pressure on the system and have the bleeder open I have somone work the clutch pedal up and down. Always works great for me.

Mark

StoogeMoe

You don't have to remove the starter, but you might want to the first time just to know where it is. The starter is easy to remove on these cars. Now that I've done it a bunch of times, you just reach up in there blind from above, hook up a hose, and crack open the bleeder. Just be careful with your 7mm wrench that you don't short it to the starter. It is possible to engage the starter. If you have the rear wheels on the ground and the car in gear, it can become a bad day. The safest thing to do is to disconnect the negative lead of the battery (which you'll do if you remove the starter).

krystar

they say it's easier if u remove the starter. but i managed to get to it w/o removing anything. putting the rubber cap back on afterwards was a pita though.

used motive power bleeder.


yea good advice, undo yer battery hookup or u might find your fingers on some sparkages

Perculator00

Jack up the car and get under there....look about 4-6" to the side of the starter and you cant miss the slave cylinder screw. I bought a "long" 7mm wrench so I could open/close it easier than using my shorter wrench.

For bleeding, you dont HAVE to remove the starter.

Perculator00

So what your saying is...In addition to using the power bleeder, you also have someone pump the clutch after you open the slave screw? I thought about that, but the first member to reply to my post said "dont mess with the clutch pedal until clear fluid starts coming out"

If you do it the manual way even for the clutch....do u have to use the same rule like brake calipers...."never leave the slave cylinder in OPEN if the partner lifts the pedal UP"??

Perculator00

YESS DEFF disconnect the terminals on ur battery (negative)

Even if you are not going to remove the starter, disconnect it because your gonna be using ur wrench in that spot, and as long as the battery is hooked up, it will throw sparks everywhere.