944 no start isuue, again.
 

Have no clue where to start looking now on my 84 944. I have checked the basics out, starter, alternater, battery, ignition switch, and fuses. All looked good, and tested out good by means of looking (fuses) testing the ignition switch by clarks procedure, and the alternater and started tested good at Pep Boys, and I got 12.3-4 DCVs on my voltmeter for my battery. The other day I tested tested the battery and got 11.8 2 days ago, and then yesterday I pulled the starter, and I tested the battery in hopes that maybee the battery was dead, and I got 12.3, 12.4 DCVs on the battery. The car turns and tries to start, but nothing. After trying to start the car, when I turn the key out of the ignition position the tach doesnt bouce and the oil guage pin bouces, and the oil light doesnt go on. OH, when I took the alternater out, I took the breather hose off to check if my timing belt was visable, it is, ha. Dont know where to go from here. Opinions or causes?

edit- I put in my starter, and after I tried to start it, put the key in Pos. 2, the starter made a weird sound like it keept on rotating. And when I put the key in, a humming sound goes on.

You have checked the DME relay?

No, not yet. Was looking up on which one it was. I think that I can pul the DME relay, and switch it with another one, but havent found out which one yet. Dont know how to check fuses out yet, either.

Fuses are all in the panel up by the drivers side window at the back of the engine in the plastic box, as is the DME relay. It's a cheap part - you pull the old one out and stick the new one in.

I haven't had the problem yet - but everything I've read says you keep one of these in your glove box and if your car won't start - replace it.

http://www.rennbay.com/kbase/index.p...0755afba5b6dca

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20

First post could be the DME relay

The edit post sounds like your starter switch is toast or your engine or chassis ground is bad. The DME relay controls the engine functions, fuel, injectors etc. It has nothing to do with buzzers.

The fuse box and relay panels are diffferent from the on the 83-85.5 than the 85.5 and newer modles, but thanks for the diagrams. As for the starter, it could be the way I put in the starter? I replaced the starter in Aug. and the first time, afetr installation, it didnt start. Took the new starter out and put it right back in. Fired up first start.

If you buy a new DME relay, test it. I received one DOA!

If all else fails, see if the tach bounces when you try to start it. It could be bad speed and or reference sensors. Had the same problem last summer. After 20+ years heat from the engine will make them brittle and they break.

It bounches very slightly, but that is only when the engine is shutting down.

Give the DME relay a try - it's most likely the cause as others have said. But you might have another issue with your starter (solenoid and/or switch) from what you said.

If you end up getting stuck after trying the DME relay, I'm probably only 15 minutes from wherever you are in Warrington. I'd be happy to show you where all the magic bits are (the grounds people are talking about, how to check your belts for real, etc).

If I understand what you wrote, and the engine turns over and trys to start, it probably is not the starter. DME relay is a good bet. You have to figure out if it is a spark or fuel issue. If the fuel pump is working and everything else seems to point towards to the car starting and it won't, you probably have a relay or sensor problem. DarylJ seems to have a lot of experience with these cars. You might want to take him up on his offer to help.

This is exactly wehat mine has been dong for the last 6 months. If you have tap on the sensors it should start up again. Tapping of the sensors has actually been part of my start up routine for months now. I just changed the sensors finally and now it works.

Also dont buy the Porsche ones. Buy the BMW ones they work just the same and look the same, although a little longer) and they cost half as much.

Its funny I have a receipt from the previous owner and he was charged over a grand to change these sensors at a shop. It cost me 130$.

Every couple of days, mine won't start unless I jiggle the connection a little. Not a big deal, and #100 on the list of little things that need fixin'.

It sounds more like one of the flywheel sensors to me. The plastic connectors (aft of intake manifold) often get baked and brittle. See if they look intact. Also, you can do a resistance check on the sensors which will at least rule out an open circuit (you need an oscilloscope to properly check them). I believe Clark's Garage has the resistance values.

Thank you Ben for letting me borrow thew DME relay. But, I am not happy to say that the car still did not start. Same symptoms as before, dash lights go on (P brake light, and alternator light, the (!) light went on only in pos. 2), engine tries to start, and when I shut her down the starter keeps running for half a second, then clunks and stops. I will remove the starter and re-install it tommorow to see if that does anything. Hopefully it is cold enought that the snow around my car isnt melting, or else I will have to risk getting the flu while taking out the starter. Thanks.