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oh no I think I blew up my engine (no oil pressure)

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Old 01-20-2009, 08:47 PM
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Yummybud924
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I read clarks garage:

can my oil pressure relief valve have gone bad?

also clarks says oil pump could have lost its prime? but my car has not been sitting only overnight. can this still be possible?
Old 01-20-2009, 09:01 PM
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SolReaver
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Default endless possibilities

OPRF is a strong possibility as is the priming difficulty. Also your Oil filter could have gone bad. (it happens) Changing the oil and filter could take care of 2 and 3. as to the OPRF, you might want to take a good look at it while you are doing the oil and filter change. I would remove it and take a peek. Post pics. I like pictures. Get a pressure gage and change the oil and filter. If you try and start the car before getting pressure on the gage I will refuse to talk to you.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:01 PM
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flosho
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Dude, you have three options:

1. mechanical gauge to check pressure.

2. drain oil, put winter oil in, check dummy light.

3. none of the above; drive until loud noise, smoke, and metallic sounds occur.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:02 PM
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Dude, you have three options:

1. mechanical gauge to check pressure.

2. drain oil, put winter oil in, check dummy light.

3. none of the above; drive until loud noise, smoke, and metallic sounds occur.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:04 PM
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Mike C.
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O.K. so if you really have no oil pressure it would certainly be worth checking a few inexpensive things to try and figure it out. It is possible the OPRV is stuck open. Checking this would be a good excuse to replace your oil cooler seals and compared to what you've already accomplished as a 'shade tree' mechanic, this would be easy and not too expensive or time consuming (it would also prevent a 'dreaded milkshake' story). You didn't mention if the temperature gage was normal once you realized what was happening. If it was in the normal range, maybe no damage was done. If it were me, I would replace the oil filter and throw in some cheap 10W-30 for testing purposes too. IIRC, there is also an oil check valve in the head where oil feeds to the cam tower. It is possible this is clogged and only the lifters are starving. I believe the only place to tap a mechanical OP gage would be where the electric sensor screws in. You might be able to rent one or, again, a cheap mechanical gage would still tell you what is going on. Just make sure you have the correct threads...
Old 01-20-2009, 09:09 PM
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Default 2 out of 3

Prasha (always in style): I like 1 and 2. Not to crazy about 3 as that is usually what customers do before bringing cars to me. Then they always ask.."can you fix it?...Cheap???" Hmmmm.....No.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:11 PM
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Yummybud924
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ok thanks guys. I want to put in cheap conventional oil so I don't waste more money.

the temp out right now is like 8 degrees it's not cold. we don't have cold winters here.

should I get a 20w50 oil or thinner?


right now I can either source a bosche 72158 or fram both don't have a relief valve.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:15 PM
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El Commandante
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2050!!?? maybe if its summer. Go 10 40, 10 30 or 5 30, and i wouldnt use a fram ever... but thats just me.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:16 PM
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Default Oooh!

Mike: yea, I hear ya. However, I was thinking just removing the OPRV and not doing the OC seals just yet. I believe the OPRV can be removed without disturbing the OC housing.

Now, If you are thinking a catastrophic OC fail...hmmm..I see..Valid...But wouldn't there be gobs of oil in the coolant? Hey YB, check for oil in your res. It is worth a look see. If no oil in the coolant, I think we can rule out the massive OC fail and leave the OC in it's happy housing for now. OK Mike?
Old 01-20-2009, 09:20 PM
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Default oil

YB: whatever oil is on sale. 10-40 or thereabouts, 20-50 better. I only use Mann filters.
yes EC: we may have a priming problem so thicker oil is the way to go. IMHO. 5-30 ...too thin. The idea is to get good fresh stuff in there. Also to check to see if metal shavings come out. (I really hope not)
Old 01-20-2009, 09:21 PM
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ive seen the valves in the oil filter go bad before- get a cheapy filter and fill it w/ oil and try to restart. You should be running some thinner oil if its colder than say 50degrees F. down there. YOur oil pressure will cause the ! light to come on but if its on because of your ebrake then it does no good.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SolReaver
YB: whatever oil is on sale. 10-40 or thereabouts, 20-50 better. I only use Mann filters.
yes EC: we may have a priming problem so thicker oil is the way to go. IMHO. 5-30 ...too thin. The idea is to get good fresh stuff in there. Also to check to see if metal shavings come out. (I really hope not)
dude he lives in vancouver...... its been in the low to mid 30's all week there (fahrenheit)
Old 01-20-2009, 09:35 PM
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those cheapy filters have no anti drain back valve i'm pretty sure I can get a bosch 72158 at lordco tonight but the other filters they have to order.

also I am draining the oil right now and I opened the oil drain valve and the oil is not coming out as quick as it usually does looks like something is blocking it's flow...... maybe some sealant used around my oil pan gasket (replaced about 2 years ago) has come off and blocked the oil pick up toube? I doubt it could blow the entire pickup tube screen to cause zero oil pressure.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:36 PM
  #59  
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Default okey dokey

yea, Vancouver....ok. Good catch oh great and wise guru.
20-50, probably not. anything less. Fram (or whatever) prob OK for testing.
Old 01-20-2009, 09:39 PM
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Default stuff?

Yea, YB, It could block the tube and cause cavitation or the non priming thing. If you have a lot of stuff, it may have gotten past the screen. I really hope not. Darn pans are a pain on these things. What kind of stuff is in there?

2 years ago...did you mess with the pickup tube? could it have "fallen off" that could explain a lot. Just guessing here. Let's not rush to judgment.


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