Why is a Clutch So Expensive?
#211
RL Community Team
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Vonov,
How did you know I want to put a vr6 in a 944 (well a 968 actually)? I haven't talked about it much. It's a little off-topic for this thread though so I'll PM you.
I believe the travel is probably 2mm at the most. I've never measured it because I don't know how. One theory I have is, maybe the travel distance is the same as the distance it takes the PP to compress when bolting it on. The bolts become hard to turn at like 8-10mm up so maybe that's your answer? Just speculating at this point.
How did you know I want to put a vr6 in a 944 (well a 968 actually)? I haven't talked about it much. It's a little off-topic for this thread though so I'll PM you.
I believe the travel is probably 2mm at the most. I've never measured it because I don't know how. One theory I have is, maybe the travel distance is the same as the distance it takes the PP to compress when bolting it on. The bolts become hard to turn at like 8-10mm up so maybe that's your answer? Just speculating at this point.
#212
Ok, well I was just looking at the clutch difference between the 944 and the 944S. The clutch disc is apparently the same as it shows the disc fits the 944 and 944S. But the clutch kit is different. Any idea as to why? I can't figure out why.
#213
Vonov,
How did you know I want to put a vr6 in a 944 (well a 968 actually)? I haven't talked about it much. It's a little off-topic for this thread though so I'll PM you.
I believe the travel is probably 2mm at the most. I've never measured it because I don't know how. One theory I have is, maybe the travel distance is the same as the distance it takes the PP to compress when bolting it on. The bolts become hard to turn at like 8-10mm up so maybe that's your answer? Just speculating at this point.
How did you know I want to put a vr6 in a 944 (well a 968 actually)? I haven't talked about it much. It's a little off-topic for this thread though so I'll PM you.
I believe the travel is probably 2mm at the most. I've never measured it because I don't know how. One theory I have is, maybe the travel distance is the same as the distance it takes the PP to compress when bolting it on. The bolts become hard to turn at like 8-10mm up so maybe that's your answer? Just speculating at this point.
#214
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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Even if they are the same, I would expect the 944S pressure plate to be stiffer (heavier) than a 944 because it has more hp/tq.
#215
RL Community Team
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#216
800 for labor is reasonable considering u have to either take the tranny and torque tube out or pull the engine just to get to it. and the clutch is so expensive because they can charge that much and we still buy them. i know i did cuz there really isnt much choice. theres oem and centerforce. anthing else? i didnt find anything else. im surprised they dont charge more because we would prob still buy them.
#217
Hey guys i thought i would contribute to the thread. I bought a 930 disk ( cost me 77 dollars on ebay shipped)
Brand New Info : The manufacturer is QSC. (chinese company) The material is Organic, Sintered Iron 240mm, 4 spring configuration
Really legit and looks to be well built Should be installed sometime this next month. i plan on doing a write up later on
Link to seller: http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/zekesm....c0.m14&_pgn=2
Brand New Info : The manufacturer is QSC. (chinese company) The material is Organic, Sintered Iron 240mm, 4 spring configuration
Really legit and looks to be well built Should be installed sometime this next month. i plan on doing a write up later on
Link to seller: http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/zekesm....c0.m14&_pgn=2
#218
Rennlist Member
Hey guys i thought i would contribute to the thread. I bought a 930 disk ( cost me 77 dollars on ebay shipped)
Brand New Info : The manufacturer is QSC. (chinese company) The material is Organic, Sintered Iron 240mm, 4 spring configuration
Really legit and looks to be well built Should be installed sometime this next month. i plan on doing a write up later on
Link to seller: http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/zekesm....c0.m14&_pgn=2
Brand New Info : The manufacturer is QSC. (chinese company) The material is Organic, Sintered Iron 240mm, 4 spring configuration
Really legit and looks to be well built Should be installed sometime this next month. i plan on doing a write up later on
Link to seller: http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/zekesm....c0.m14&_pgn=2
#220
Rennlist Member
Well, I just finished my first clutch job! I feel like I've been in a boxing match, have scratches all over my arms, but by golly it's done! I used the Clutchnet disc and a Sachs PP, replaced everything else (release brg, fork needles and shaft, pilot bearing). Total cost came to $560 (parts). It is very smooth, not exactly broken in yet. About 90% of the noise from my transaxle is gone too!
#221
Racer
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Nashville///'84 944NA, Virtual Luftwaffe pilot, Fighter Ace online
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Can relate to the feeling like you've been in a fight thing. Been there, done that... Congrats on the new clutch install. A job like that gives you a nice feeling of accomplishment, and confidence to tackle more critical/involved things, like (ptui!!) timing belts.
#223
Instructor
About 90% of the noise from my transaxle is gone too!
That was my experience as well. Essentially I think it was the release bearing making all that racket when I layed off the gas.. It was still "lubricated", but it was horribly out of round. Before the job I was convinced it was the torque tube. Apparently not. I'm thinking the TT is original because there is no evidence that the rear suspension was lowered and even thought the inner shaft is tight it still makes some noise when hand spun. Car shows 209,000 miles. I intended on rebuilding the TT, but had had enough BS so I left it. Glad I did. Can do it easily enough because now I know that the trans axle removal is no biggie.
IMO, one does need a transmission jack for a relaxed operation. I used an early 50's unit, but next time I see a articulating transmission jack on sale I'm gonna buy it. I know that this is not the last time I'll be removing the trans axle.
That was my experience as well. Essentially I think it was the release bearing making all that racket when I layed off the gas.. It was still "lubricated", but it was horribly out of round. Before the job I was convinced it was the torque tube. Apparently not. I'm thinking the TT is original because there is no evidence that the rear suspension was lowered and even thought the inner shaft is tight it still makes some noise when hand spun. Car shows 209,000 miles. I intended on rebuilding the TT, but had had enough BS so I left it. Glad I did. Can do it easily enough because now I know that the trans axle removal is no biggie.
IMO, one does need a transmission jack for a relaxed operation. I used an early 50's unit, but next time I see a articulating transmission jack on sale I'm gonna buy it. I know that this is not the last time I'll be removing the trans axle.
#224
Rennlist Member
I used one of those '50's-style mechanical trans jacks at a rent-a-stall shop once, it was equally wonderful. No comparison to those cheap-**** scissors trans jacks they sell nowadays. But it would cost $500 nowadays, at least, and weighed 150+ lbs. The bike jack cost me $50 and rolls around easily. (I already had it, anyway).
#225
I've got over 240K miles on the original tourque tube... I shoulda done it when I recently put a new clutch in but I was too lazy. I guess I'll find out how long a TT can last...