Oil is like religion to some people...
#16
Nordschleife Master
Yes, it has ZDDP, which is a good anti-wear additive (shown to destroy cats in studys...true or not, IDK)
VR1 (and other racing oils) don't have any detergents. I use valvoline 20w50 synthetic...but the regular stuff. A normal biproduct of combustion is sulfuric acid, and cylinder pressures push this acid right past the rings .... more in some than others, but no rings seal 100%... and into the oil. Racing oil has nothing to fight this acid because its going to not only be changed in 500mi but the whole engine will most likely be rebuilt too. "Street" oils have something to fight this acid (tums?), and also sludge (if you watch your castrol adds on tv).
VR1 (and other racing oils) don't have any detergents. I use valvoline 20w50 synthetic...but the regular stuff. A normal biproduct of combustion is sulfuric acid, and cylinder pressures push this acid right past the rings .... more in some than others, but no rings seal 100%... and into the oil. Racing oil has nothing to fight this acid because its going to not only be changed in 500mi but the whole engine will most likely be rebuilt too. "Street" oils have something to fight this acid (tums?), and also sludge (if you watch your castrol adds on tv).
#17
Nordschleife Master
I notice alot of 'listers get cought up in "racing this and racing that". (I know I check racing stuff out alot too....I'm guilty). Most of it is completely useless on the street and some of it is dangerous, or like the racing oil, will actually do more harm than good.
If you're not RACING your car, then it don't need racing stuff!! (gonna catch some **** for that)
If you're not RACING your car, then it don't need racing stuff!! (gonna catch some **** for that)
#18
Under the Radar
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SO, Im almost done with my build, NEw everything, What oil should I run??? I do beat on it hard at times and usually pull to redline alot, Before my Performance rebuild I ran 10-30 and even 0-40 with out many problems, But I did notice that on really hot days in traffic at idle oil pressure would drop way low, Like low enough to throw the warning light on LOL, SO I guess I will try 20-50 summer oil, ANy good brands you guys recommend
I like Mobil 1. Used to use 15-50 in summer, but fuel economy needs and basically street driving prompted me to change to 0-40, with no drastic drop in oil pressure. If you just built your engine, you should be fine with it after break-in...I'm near 2k miles with no leaks and no consumption.
FWIW, my 83 owner's manual says a little flickering of the OP light, at idle on a hot day, is normal.
#19
All of my P-cars 71 911, 84 944, 89 944, get Castrol 20w 50. No problems with oil ever. Not sure on the what the p.o. put in the 911 and the 84 before me. The 89 gets 500-600 miles a week put on her and has over 400k on original drivetrain!!! The car has always had Castrol 20w 50. The rod bearings were replaced at 150k, 300k, just for preventative reasons.
#21
Let me know when you're done...I still have 6 weeks of break and am really getting to know Branford to Saybrook, plus Saybrook north to Chester.
I like Mobil 1. Used to use 15-50 in summer, but fuel economy needs and basically street driving prompted me to change to 0-40, with no drastic drop in oil pressure. If you just built your engine, you should be fine with it after break-in...I'm near 2k miles with no leaks and no consumption.
FWIW, my 83 owner's manual says a little flickering of the OP light, at idle on a hot day, is normal.
I like Mobil 1. Used to use 15-50 in summer, but fuel economy needs and basically street driving prompted me to change to 0-40, with no drastic drop in oil pressure. If you just built your engine, you should be fine with it after break-in...I'm near 2k miles with no leaks and no consumption.
FWIW, my 83 owner's manual says a little flickering of the OP light, at idle on a hot day, is normal.
#22
Rennlist Member
I always use Castrol. - 10-30 in my truck, 20w50 in my car. Doesnt get driven in the winter. When my dad used to race -yes race- castrol was the only stuff that didnt gum everything up after getting hot in an air cooled motor for hours of track time. I do use Mobil 1 in the benz since they recommend the 0-40 Mobil from the factory.
#23
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Thread Starter
Strange... I hate oil... it's always different I never get the "right" stuff...
I guess I'll use the VR1 for this first 3K miles, then go back to my Castrol GTX 20W50 and 10W40.... Unless there is a problem with GTX too....???
I guess I'll use the VR1 for this first 3K miles, then go back to my Castrol GTX 20W50 and 10W40.... Unless there is a problem with GTX too....???
#26
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#29
Hey Man
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Yes, it has ZDDP, which is a good anti-wear additive (shown to destroy cats in studys...true or not, IDK)
VR1 (and other racing oils) don't have any detergents. I use valvoline 20w50 synthetic...but the regular stuff. A normal biproduct of combustion is sulfuric acid, and cylinder pressures push this acid right past the rings .... more in some than others, but no rings seal 100%... and into the oil. Racing oil has nothing to fight this acid because its going to not only be changed in 500mi but the whole engine will most likely be rebuilt too. "Street" oils have something to fight this acid (tums?), and also sludge (if you watch your castrol adds on tv).
VR1 (and other racing oils) don't have any detergents. I use valvoline 20w50 synthetic...but the regular stuff. A normal biproduct of combustion is sulfuric acid, and cylinder pressures push this acid right past the rings .... more in some than others, but no rings seal 100%... and into the oil. Racing oil has nothing to fight this acid because its going to not only be changed in 500mi but the whole engine will most likely be rebuilt too. "Street" oils have something to fight this acid (tums?), and also sludge (if you watch your castrol adds on tv).
Yes oil is like religion to some only because it shares many myths. Unlike religion there are facts that are readily available. I don't know where you got the idea that Valvoline VR-1 has no detergent. The only non-detergent oil they (Ashland) even makes is a straight 30W dino and it is clearly marked as such. VR-1 is designed to do exactly what you say it doesn't do and that's to reduce hi-temp deposits. VR-1 is not a dedicated racing oil and contains 75% more zinc than the common SM grades and is compatible with all gas engines.
You really should research more before stating facts that can easily be disproved at the touch of a button.
VR-1 Product data sheet
VR-1 Zinc