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Compression test results :(

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Old 05-02-2008, 04:44 PM
  #16  
Josh B
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Originally Posted by zoltan944
The overall numbers are effected by the open throttle. So you would maybe have gotten higher numbers across the board, but still a bit lower reading of cylinder #1.
The difference in cyl #1 from the average of the others is about 5.5%. This was sorta obvious with your #1 plug posted before, but 5.5% would be NOWHERE NEAR what it would take me to pull the head.
As far as it being your first time doing it, it doesn't matter its a no brainer and your results show that you did it correctly.
If you want to know where the loss may be, then a leak down is in order. Should it in fact be some build up on a valve, then Seafoam may be able to fix your problem

I agree that pulling the head isn't necessary. It is just with a modded car when you can spend less than $750 (of course with you doing the labor) and redo the head, o-ring it, put on a widefire headgasket, redo the exhaust and intake gaskets and crossover gaskets, replace your studs, nuts and bolts and get a good look at your cylinder walls it is money and time well spent. This gives you a chance to look over your exhaust manifold and crossover as well if you wanted plus check for harness integrity and coolant hose health. Wouldn't hurt while your in there to loosen up the oil cooler lines and add another oil cooler to help with the modded everything theme.

Another thing to do at the same time is pick up a spare crossover and exhaust manifold and have them ceramic coated.

I was pretty shocked at the condition of my stock headgasket on my car at 130k miles. I suppose it is a 20 year old gasket and who knows what coolant the PO ran - not that any of us know for sure unless we are the only owner.
Old 05-02-2008, 05:28 PM
  #17  
Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by Josh B
I agree that pulling the head isn't necessary. It is just with a modded car when you can spend less than $750 (of course with you doing the labor) and redo the head, o-ring it, put on a widefire headgasket, redo the exhaust and intake gaskets and crossover gaskets, replace your studs, nuts and bolts and get a good look at your cylinder walls it is money and time well spent. This gives you a chance to look over your exhaust manifold and crossover as well if you wanted plus check for harness integrity and coolant hose health. Wouldn't hurt while your in there to loosen up the oil cooler lines and add another oil cooler to help with the modded everything theme.

Another thing to do at the same time is pick up a spare crossover and exhaust manifold and have them ceramic coated.

I was pretty shocked at the condition of my stock headgasket on my car at 130k miles. I suppose it is a 20 year old gasket and who knows what coolant the PO ran - not that any of us know for sure unless we are the only owner.
Actually I do have a SFR two piece xover ready to go on when I do decide to take the head off. Who should I send it to to get it coated?
Old 05-03-2008, 01:30 AM
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brrt50cal
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Stick a can of Restore in there and see if your numbers go up.
Old 05-03-2008, 06:35 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by brrt50cal
Stick a can of Restore in there and see if your numbers go up.
Please DO NOT USE RESTORE IN YOUR CAR.

Your compression numbers aren't that bad for a higher mileage, low compression car. Especially since you didn't have the throttle open when doing the test.

Unless your car is burning oil, or you just want to burn some cash, I don't see the need to go for a rebuild at the moment.


-Rogue
Old 05-03-2008, 09:59 AM
  #20  
Josh B
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I'll bet $5 that if you do it again with the throttle open your numbers will not change in a material amount.
Old 05-03-2008, 01:29 PM
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What do you consider a "material amount"?


-Rogue
Old 05-03-2008, 02:18 PM
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Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Please DO NOT USE RESTORE IN YOUR CAR.

Your compression numbers aren't that bad for a higher mileage, low compression car. Especially since you didn't have the throttle open when doing the test.

Unless your car is burning oil, or you just want to burn some cash, I don't see the need to go for a rebuild at the moment.


-Rogue
I'm burning a small amount of oil in cyl 1, nothing that is easily noticed, even on accel (thats really the only time it smokes).

-Darwin
Old 05-03-2008, 03:20 PM
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Bri Bro
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The throttle should be held open to allow clean airflow into the cyclinders. Your air preasure at 3,000 ft will be around 11% lower (room temp.20% humidity) so this will make the reading lower then at sea level. I would say keep driving it but keep the readings for future reference.
Old 05-03-2008, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Broderick
The throttle should be held open to allow clean airflow into the cyclinders. Your air preasure at 3,000 ft will be around 11% lower (room temp.20% humidity) so this will make the reading lower then at sea level. I would say keep driving it but keep the readings for future reference.
+1

ModdedEverything951S, what weight oil are you using?


-Rogue
Old 05-03-2008, 03:33 PM
  #25  
Darwantae951

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Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40. Since it leaks from the pan gasket I'm not using a synthetic, just a semisyn.

Oh and Rogue, you can call me Darwin
Old 05-03-2008, 03:46 PM
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Lol, ok. I didn't even notice your name there - maybe I need another cup of coffee....
Just curious, how do you know that cylinder 1 is burning oil? Under acceleration most turbo cars will have some smoke - but its just from a rich condition.


-Rogue
Old 05-03-2008, 03:50 PM
  #27  
Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Lol, ok. I didn't even notice your name there - maybe I need another cup of coffee....
Just curious, how do you know that cylinder 1 is burning oil? Under acceleration most turbo cars will have some smoke - but its just from a rich condition.


-Rogue
Changed plugs and wires the other day and number one had some fairly decent carbon build up while the other 3 were a nice even tan. Had a friend watch my exhaust while I accelerated and he said he saw "puffs of light grey" nothing that was constant, just puffs. Then I did the compression test and also when I pulled the plugs number one was slightly oily.
Old 05-03-2008, 03:51 PM
  #28  
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Here is the old number one plug:



-Darwin
Old 05-03-2008, 05:34 PM
  #29  
Bri Bro
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I would just change/clean that plug more often then the rest. Much cheaper then a rebuild.

Last edited by Bri Bro; 05-03-2008 at 10:52 PM.



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