barelyrunshalfthetime

Ok, I spun a rod bearing a looonggg time ago and have been moving very slow on this rebuild. Anyways, what engine parts are you supposed to lubricate (and what lubricants do you use) when putting the parts back in?

The studs? (loctite? and which studs?)
Cylinder Walls? Pistons?
Rod bearings/crank? (BTW how do you check clearence? plastigage?)
Balance shaft housings? (any sealer between them and the block?)
Crank Girdle? (any sealer between it and the block?)

Are there any other things I've missed that require some kind of lube? Right now I'm cleaning the pistons. My dad bought a different short block with lower mileadge than ours, and I have a complete rebuild kit. Thanks in advance you guys, I haven't been around in a long time because stuff has just been so crazy with me going off to college next year... I really wanna get this thing done, is there any other hints or suggestions you have for me?

AlpharettaRK

I'd loctite the engine end of the head studs, if you took them out.
Loctite 574 for the balance shaft housing and crank girdle
I use WD-40 for a final wipedown of cylinder walls. It helps to make sure you get all debris out and provides a little lubrication until the engine fires, then it burns off immediately. You don't want anything to prevent the rings from seating
Use assembly lube (any brand from any autoparts store) on all bearings - rods, mains and balance shafts.
Yep, plastigage to check clearance on the crank. It's really just insurance, if you bought the right bearings and didn't have the crank turned you'll be fine.
That's my views
Cheers

Randy

AlpharettaRK

And after it's all back together, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it for 30 seconds or so, this will let the oil pump do its job and you won't be starting a dry engine

V2Rocket

would there be any problem with dumping a little oil into one of those caps on the cam housing before starting?

FRporscheman

Some people like to use spit as a lubricant when putting the rod back in.

AlpharettaRK

No problem, but I'm not sure it will help much, it will just mostly drain back down to the pan. Oil gets to where it does its job from the inside, under pressure from the pump

tk's944

Don't forget to soak the lifters in oil for at least 1 hour, and dunking the pistons into oil isn't a bad idea either.

StoogeMoe

If you're asking these kinds of questions, you're not ready for a rebuild. Get a hold of the factory manuals and read them thoroughly. Then re-read two more times. You might want to read up on general engine assembly tips. It might be wise to find somebody who has done this before. This is way too much work to have to do twice.

Make sure the short block you bought has matching numbers for the girdle and the balance shaft covers, otherwise you could have binding or leaking issues. The sealant between the girdle and block is critical. If you have one leak, you will have no oil pressure, and you'll be doing it all again.

barelyrunshalfthetime

Thanks for the info you guys. We do have the porsche factory manuals to read through and I will do this when I get some free time between AP courses, my band, and work. Yeah the short block came with bal shaft covers and a girdle. The reason we got the new short block was because the girdle on our old block looked like crap, and the girdles aren't interchangeable.

I'm generally familiar with what we're doing since I am in Auto Tech III at my school and we do stuff like this sometimes, but Porsches are different, and I wanted to check on what needed what for lubricant before throwing this whole mess back together. I will follow up if I have any more questions. Thanks again.

adrial

Things that move relative to eachother should be lubricated with assembly lube.

Things where you put them together and notice that oil will be flowing from the piece you're looking at and the piece in your hand, you seal -- Loctite 574 for the girdle and balance shaft covers.

It will take much longer than 30 seconds to prime the oil system if you are down to bare block & doing a rebuild.

P.S. it will smoke like you've never seen before when you first fire it up.

Tom M'Guinn

Mine started right up with no smoke or fuss.

adrial

With fresh rings?

67rschev

+1
Redline Assembly Lube .......... sticks like glue and wont plug oil filters like moly based lubes . Use a non detergent run in oil for breakin ........ If a new cam or lifters are used , also use BG EPC ffor breakin (Extreme Presure Concentrate)

Tom M'Guinn

Yes, new pistons and rings, in freshly bored cylinders. Go figure, not a puff.