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I got the fuse box out, and I want to remove each individual wire pack (don't know the official name). I can see a tab to the outside of each pack, and when the tab is pushed outward the wire pack can be pulled a little bit outward, but seems to be held in toward the inside of the wire pack. Is there something toward the inside of each wire pack that holds it in as well? I can't see what needs to be done to pull each pack completely out of the fuse box.
On the front of the fusebox there is a lever. Look right under your thumb in the first pic. Pull that out a bit (it moves forward 1/2" or so) then the big plugs just pull off with a tug.
On the front of the fusebox there is a lever. Look right under your thumb in the first pic. Pull that out a bit (it moves forward 1/2" or so) then the big plugs just pull off with a tug.
Thank you Brian, that worked!
Now, another question: To remove individual wires from the wire packs, do you simply pull the wire out? Or is there some other method of removing the wires? I figure I'd ask first before I break something.
Now, another question: To remove individual wires from the wire packs, do you simply pull the wire out? Or is there some other method of removing the wires? I figure I'd ask first before I break something.
Theyre a bitch to remove, since they latch in on both sides of the connector housing.
What you need is that green tool at the top of the page, or something very similar to the side that has the two thin prongs. Those slide down on either side of the connector from the front of the block (ie opposide the wire) to unlatch it. Look in local car parts stores, I found the exact same set of two tools for like $10 or 15 CDN. Even with the right tool its a bit of a fiddle, lots of wiggling of the tool and the wire is needed then all of a sudden it slides out.
Eagleday also has the individual crimp connectors so you can add things to the fusebox block connectors. The eletrical system is quite complex, but theres a surprising amount of room for expansion and adding things and moving stuff around.
Thanks again Brian, I'll check the local auto parts stores for that terminal extraction tool.
Each of the wire packs/connectors/whatever they're called is lettered. Does anyone have a list of each wire pack, what color wires are connected to it, and where each wire goes?
Basically, I am eliminating every wire that isn't necessary: power windows, door locks, power sunroof, power seats, all the dash electronics (except gauge cluster), headlights/foglights/marker lights, interior lights, airbag, power mirrors, brake pad sensors, AC/heater, etc. etc.
If there's interest, and the information isn't already available (which it probably is?), I could consider doing a write-up on this. Would this info. be of help to others?
Digging into the wiring today, I can tell this could be a months long project.
For those of us too lazy to go to the auto store, and too cheap to get the real tool, a bent piece of galvanized steel wire($2 or so for a spool?) works well. I found if you bend it in half then crimp it so there is basically a double thickness it's just the right size to get those pins. One on each side and a bit of wiggleing and the wire drops out.
If you're going to pull ALL the wires though, you'll most likely want the propper tool since it's easier to hold.
For those of us too lazy to go to the auto store, and too cheap to get the real tool, a bent piece of galvanized steel wire($2 or so for a spool?) works well. I found if you bend it in half then crimp it so there is basically a double thickness it's just the right size to get those pins. One on each side and a bit of wiggleing and the wire drops out.
If you're going to pull ALL the wires though, you'll most likely want the propper tool since it's easier to hold.
Good to know, thanks Andrew! I'll probably get the tool though, since I figure I will be eliminating somewhere around 60-70% of the wires. I think I only have 8 fuses and 8 relays left in the fuse box!
Thanks again Brian, I'll check the local auto parts stores for that terminal extraction tool.
Each of the wire packs/connectors/whatever they're called is lettered. Does anyone have a list of each wire pack, what color wires are connected to it, and where each wire goes?
Basically, I am eliminating every wire that isn't necessary: power windows, door locks, power sunroof, power seats, all the dash electronics (except gauge cluster), headlights/foglights/marker lights, interior lights, airbag, power mirrors, brake pad sensors, AC/heater, etc. etc.
If there's interest, and the information isn't already available (which it probably is?), I could consider doing a write-up on this. Would this info. be of help to others?
Digging into the wiring today, I can tell this could be a months long project.
All you need are the eletrical diagrams. Each fusebox connection is numbered. An example is F22. That means connector F, row 2, pin 2. I think it starts from the colored side of each block as row 1, and the pin closest to the "lug" that protrudes from it is pin 1. Theyre all numbered as well on the connector itself AND the fusebox side by the male pins.
Beyond that its just a matter of understanding the eletrical schematics, which arent too bad to figure out assuming you have some basic eletrical knowlege.
IMHO once you look over the diagrams and figure it out, youll realize what a well engineered system it is. Ive added two or three fuses, two new relays, moved the fuel pump wiring to a new relay and fuse (and added wiring for my bigger pump), and more without chopping anything up. Of course if it gets damaged, its a disaster Hell a lot of the existing fuses go to several connector pins on the underside, with one or more free. Want to add something to an existing fuse, no problem just plug a female blade connector into the right plug and away you go.
If you need the eletrical diagrams let me know and I can post a link. Or any help figuring it out.
All you need are the eletrical diagrams. Each fusebox connection is numbered. An example is F22. That means connector F, row 2, pin 2. I think it starts from the colored side of each block as row 1, and the pin closest to the "lug" that protrudes from it is pin 1. Theyre all numbered as well on the connector itself AND the fusebox side by the male pins.
Beyond that its just a matter of understanding the eletrical schematics, which arent too bad to figure out assuming you have some basic eletrical knowlege.
IMHO once you look over the diagrams and figure it out, youll realize what a well engineered system it is. Ive added two or three fuses, two new relays, moved the fuel pump wiring to a new relay and fuse (and added wiring for my bigger pump), and more without chopping anything up. Of course if it gets damaged, its a disaster Hell a lot of the existing fuses go to several connector pins on the underside, with one or more free. Want to add something to an existing fuse, no problem just plug a female blade connector into the right plug and away you go.
If you need the eletrical diagrams let me know and I can post a link. Or any help figuring it out.
Any links you have would be terrific!
"Beyond that its just a matter of understanding the eletrical schematics, which arent too bad to figure out assuming you have some basic eletrical knowlege." None, nada, zilch!
My plan of attack is to follow the wiring from whatever component I'm eliminating and disconnect the wires from the fuse box. It's a complete rats nest, but if I am organized about it and do one thing at a time, it should work out ok. Tedious, no doubt.
Out of curiousity, why are you doing this? Would it be easier to rip it all out then wire what you need to do after that? Either way, thats a monster undertaking. Are you worried about car fires or something at the track?
"Beyond that its just a matter of understanding the eletrical schematics, which arent too bad to figure out assuming you have some basic eletrical knowlege." None, nada, zilch!
My plan of attack is to follow the wiring from whatever component I'm eliminating and disconnect the wires from the fuse box. It's a complete rats nest, but if I am organized about it and do one thing at a time, it should work out ok. Tedious, no doubt.
Ok, well you should still be ok, theyre not too hard to understand. Good plan of attack.
Out of curiousity, why are you doing this? Would it be easier to rip it all out then wire what you need to do after that? Either way, thats a monster undertaking. Are you worried about car fires or something at the track?
Why am I doing this? Well, I tend to ask myself that same question when I start projects on this car.
If I ripped all the original wiring out, I would have absolutely no idea how to rewire the car. Proceeding this way, the necessary components aren't messed with, and everything that is unneccessary is eliminated. I agree that this is a monster undertaking.
Two objectives in doing this: 1. To eliminate the bulk of wiring that leads to...well, nothing. 2. To simplify the car's electrical system, making it easier to trouble-shoot, repair, and maintain. My goal is to have an interior similar to this:
Found the secret after days of hassling. Cheap tool wouldn’t remove a connector from the block. Expensive one from ECS wouldn’t push the connector out either. Then I unsnapped a row from the block, and that did it. Each row of the connector block locks the next row in. Put a small screwdriver in the gap between rows and twist. The block comes apart, the wires are unlocked, and they u
slide right out.
Your can do attitude in commendable. That said, having been there done that I would say-
The entire wiring system weighs around 25 pounds. The fuse box itself is a significant contributor to that. If you do not get rid of the fuse box, I think the best you will come up with is a 10 pound reduction. Is it worth it?
Reliability- almost everything you do to a 30 year old wiring system can send it over the edge. Insulation gets brittle. You handle the harnesses. Insulation cracks. You quickly develep an impossible situation to even trouble shoot. Are you planning to open up all the factory sealed harnesses and remove the "unneeded wire" you identified at the plug. Again, a recipe for disaster.
If you really want reliability and simplification, ditch the entire stock wiring system. Start over with a custom setup with the bare bones of what you need. The only thing you want to salvage is the 36 pin ECU plug. For sure, get a new fuel injection harness, as these can get really wonky at the area where the wires come out of the injectors.
Here is a brief article on how I did it. PM me if you want more details.
10-09-2006, 05:54 PM
Fuse box removal & removing wire packs
Hell a lot of the existing fuses go to several connector pins on the underside, with one or more free. Want to add something to an existing fuse, no problem just plug a female blade connector into the right plug and away you go.
None, nada, zilch! 
