Instructional: Detailing faded old paint...picture heavy
07-16-2006, 07:00 PM
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Instructional: Detailing faded old paint...picture heavy
Ok... so I've been meaning to post one of these for a while, and I finally got around to it... First off, I need to say:
This procedure is capable of damaging your vehicle if not done carefully. I hold absolutely no responsibility if you try this procedure, however, the end results make it worth it. Also note, the products I use, I use because I know them well. I recommend these products, but this procedure can be done with others. always follow instructions on the product itself. Also, everyone has a different method. this is mine. don't like it? don't try it. but it works.
I'm going to cover paint mostly, other exterior, and some interior.
we'll start with the products used... some are not pictured...
all products can be found at Griot's Garage or www.detailersparadise.com
Now, we start with some initial shots, to show what we start with, then we go to cleaning the floor mats
Ok, to clean (shampoo) the floor mats, I spray with my favorite carpet cleaner, called Super 11, let sit for a minute or so, then hit it with the pressure washer until the water runs clean. you'll see the Porsche lettering on my passenger mat is nasty from a recent cola incident...
Now, the mats are clean. go set em somewhere clean and dry in the sun and let em cook off all the moisture. Wash the car normally, but don't dry it. then get your handy dandy clay bar. (the water in the following pics is soapy, just not bubbly) so wipe the car with the wash mitt, and go back over with the clay bar... DO NOT APPLY DOWNWARD PRESSURE OTHER THAN TO HOLD IT TO THE SURFACE. Also, NEVER use a claybar without lubricant. it can be whatever, just so long as it lubricates the clay. as you move the clay, you should be able to feel it picking up grit. when you go over it, and it's completely smooth, you're done with that section
keep folding the clay over so it's always clean. You'll notice crap being picked up by the clay... if it's yellow, it's pollen. black, maybe tar, road grime, who knows? after you're done with a section, rinse. make sure you keep the entire car wet. it's a balancing act.
after you do the car, making sure you've done what you wanted to with the clay, it's time to dry it. I didn't take a pic, because I'd assume you know how to do that.. Anyway, pull the car into the shade, and let the paint cool, until it's cool to the touch. pull out your random orbital... I use the Porter Cable, and the velcro pad system sold at detailer's paradise. the products used in this method are non-abrasive, but the pads are... yellow is harshest, orange is medium, white is minimum, black is non-abrasive. I chose to start with the orange. the product I'm using is a non-abrasive paint cleaner. this chemically removes contaminates and old, oxidized paint.
put the product directly on the pad... and then put the pad on the paint. move it around to spread before you turn on the random orbital. for this, I have the orbital speed set at 5.
turn on the orbital, and again, without putting downward pressure except enough to keep it in contact with the paint, move it around until all areas are covered. I did not get my nose panel, as that has fresh paint... this product will do nothing for fresh paint.
Now use a microfiber to remove the product after you coat the entire car. the microfiber and pad on the orbital will turn whatever color your car is. don't be afraid, it means the product is working
This procedure is capable of damaging your vehicle if not done carefully. I hold absolutely no responsibility if you try this procedure, however, the end results make it worth it. Also note, the products I use, I use because I know them well. I recommend these products, but this procedure can be done with others. always follow instructions on the product itself. Also, everyone has a different method. this is mine. don't like it? don't try it. but it works.
I'm going to cover paint mostly, other exterior, and some interior.
we'll start with the products used... some are not pictured...
all products can be found at Griot's Garage or www.detailersparadise.com
Now, we start with some initial shots, to show what we start with, then we go to cleaning the floor mats
Ok, to clean (shampoo) the floor mats, I spray with my favorite carpet cleaner, called Super 11, let sit for a minute or so, then hit it with the pressure washer until the water runs clean. you'll see the Porsche lettering on my passenger mat is nasty from a recent cola incident...
Now, the mats are clean. go set em somewhere clean and dry in the sun and let em cook off all the moisture. Wash the car normally, but don't dry it. then get your handy dandy clay bar. (the water in the following pics is soapy, just not bubbly) so wipe the car with the wash mitt, and go back over with the clay bar... DO NOT APPLY DOWNWARD PRESSURE OTHER THAN TO HOLD IT TO THE SURFACE. Also, NEVER use a claybar without lubricant. it can be whatever, just so long as it lubricates the clay. as you move the clay, you should be able to feel it picking up grit. when you go over it, and it's completely smooth, you're done with that section
keep folding the clay over so it's always clean. You'll notice crap being picked up by the clay... if it's yellow, it's pollen. black, maybe tar, road grime, who knows? after you're done with a section, rinse. make sure you keep the entire car wet. it's a balancing act.
after you do the car, making sure you've done what you wanted to with the clay, it's time to dry it. I didn't take a pic, because I'd assume you know how to do that.. Anyway, pull the car into the shade, and let the paint cool, until it's cool to the touch. pull out your random orbital... I use the Porter Cable, and the velcro pad system sold at detailer's paradise. the products used in this method are non-abrasive, but the pads are... yellow is harshest, orange is medium, white is minimum, black is non-abrasive. I chose to start with the orange. the product I'm using is a non-abrasive paint cleaner. this chemically removes contaminates and old, oxidized paint.
put the product directly on the pad... and then put the pad on the paint. move it around to spread before you turn on the random orbital. for this, I have the orbital speed set at 5.
turn on the orbital, and again, without putting downward pressure except enough to keep it in contact with the paint, move it around until all areas are covered. I did not get my nose panel, as that has fresh paint... this product will do nothing for fresh paint.
Now use a microfiber to remove the product after you coat the entire car. the microfiber and pad on the orbital will turn whatever color your car is. don't be afraid, it means the product is working
07-16-2006, 07:18 PM
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Continuing on, go to the next less-abrasive pad... for me this was the white. do the same thing...
After that, I chose to use Klasse All in one. this is a paint cleaner and synthetic wax. apply to the vehicle using the black pad in the same fashion as the cleaner
I coated the entire car, including the freshly painted nose...
now, using a NEW microfiber, remove the wax... a major difference should be noted from when you started
looks great, right? well, I decided I need my car shinier... you can stop here if you want... but if you want it to look almost brand spankin new, read on.
clean the black pad, or use another one, with the paste wax. This wax is a carnuba based wax, so the shine is awesome.
I used a paint scraper to get this stuff out of the can, and spread it on the black pad like cold butter. this stuff is very hard. but the shine is incredible! in the following pic, I have not removed it from the car. it's more clear than the other products, so it's harder to se...
put it on, and again, use a new microfiber to wipe it off...
do as many coats as you want. the more you do, the deeper the reflection. I did one coat.
Now, use a rubber dressing to touch up the rubber bits that are probably more grey than black... below is a comparison of one bumperette treated, one not.
I did everything with this stuff. tires, bumperettes, mirror trim, spoiler, whatever was black and rubber, I got with this.
HEADLIGHTS NEED LOVE TOO! don't forget about the headlights
for the interior, I use 303 Aerospace protectant on every surface (except the cloth seats and carpet). it's like sunscreen, and will keep the dash from cracking, or in my case, cracking more (I've also got a coverlay dash cover in place). using a microfiber, go over everything. backs of sunvisors, ceiling, steering wheel, EVERYTHING. go nuts.
also make sure you dig around... you'll find things you thought were long gone... I found a control for my air conditioning system.
Vacuum, if the floormats are dry, replace them. interior is done. (note the control has been replaced in the air con system...)
for the glass, I use a 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol mixture. it's cheap, it's effective, it doesn't streak.
Now the car is done... take it out into the sun, and check for places where you missed on removal. here are my finished shots. you'll be able to tell a huge difference. it's not 100%, but it's as close as I could get without a repaint.
oh yes, and if anyone is wondering, yes I plan on getting the seats reupholstered. no cash right now for that though...
After that, I chose to use Klasse All in one. this is a paint cleaner and synthetic wax. apply to the vehicle using the black pad in the same fashion as the cleaner
I coated the entire car, including the freshly painted nose...
now, using a NEW microfiber, remove the wax... a major difference should be noted from when you started
looks great, right? well, I decided I need my car shinier... you can stop here if you want... but if you want it to look almost brand spankin new, read on.
clean the black pad, or use another one, with the paste wax. This wax is a carnuba based wax, so the shine is awesome.
I used a paint scraper to get this stuff out of the can, and spread it on the black pad like cold butter. this stuff is very hard. but the shine is incredible! in the following pic, I have not removed it from the car. it's more clear than the other products, so it's harder to se...
put it on, and again, use a new microfiber to wipe it off...
do as many coats as you want. the more you do, the deeper the reflection. I did one coat.
Now, use a rubber dressing to touch up the rubber bits that are probably more grey than black... below is a comparison of one bumperette treated, one not.
I did everything with this stuff. tires, bumperettes, mirror trim, spoiler, whatever was black and rubber, I got with this.
HEADLIGHTS NEED LOVE TOO! don't forget about the headlights
for the interior, I use 303 Aerospace protectant on every surface (except the cloth seats and carpet). it's like sunscreen, and will keep the dash from cracking, or in my case, cracking more (I've also got a coverlay dash cover in place). using a microfiber, go over everything. backs of sunvisors, ceiling, steering wheel, EVERYTHING. go nuts.
also make sure you dig around... you'll find things you thought were long gone... I found a control for my air conditioning system.
Vacuum, if the floormats are dry, replace them. interior is done. (note the control has been replaced in the air con system...)
for the glass, I use a 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol mixture. it's cheap, it's effective, it doesn't streak.
Now the car is done... take it out into the sun, and check for places where you missed on removal. here are my finished shots. you'll be able to tell a huge difference. it's not 100%, but it's as close as I could get without a repaint.
oh yes, and if anyone is wondering, yes I plan on getting the seats reupholstered. no cash right now for that though...
07-16-2006, 07:34 PM
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Cool, thanks for sharing Geoff. Geoff & his partner came up and did this to my car a couple of months ago and I can readily attest to rather shiny results.
Last edited by gregeast; 07-18-2006 at 12:09 AM.
.
07-16-2006, 07:57 PM
#7
Race Director
very nice
my paint (new red car) already looks like the paint in the last pic, think it would get better with all that or should I let it be?
My silver car has those same porsche script seats torn in the same places...I wish I could find more Porsche script fabric.
my paint (new red car) already looks like the paint in the last pic, think it would get better with all that or should I let it be?
My silver car has those same porsche script seats torn in the same places...I wish I could find more Porsche script fabric.
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07-16-2006, 08:18 PM
#8
Why don't I see any pictures??
Besides that, how risky is a buffer? I have heard from several peopl that it should only be used by one who is knows what they are doing?
Would love to restore my paint better, I washed/clay bar'd/ and waxed a few months ago and it didn't seem to do much for the swirl marks and slightly dull paint.
Overall my paint is good, I just want the NEW paint look.
Besides that, how risky is a buffer? I have heard from several peopl that it should only be used by one who is knows what they are doing?
Would love to restore my paint better, I washed/clay bar'd/ and waxed a few months ago and it didn't seem to do much for the swirl marks and slightly dull paint.
Overall my paint is good, I just want the NEW paint look.
07-16-2006, 08:42 PM
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Meguiars has a very cool "Extreme Makeover" forum to check out. Lots of cool pics.
A commonly used comparison technique is to tape off a section that DOESN'T get the treatment, and see the difference at a 'herd-line' when you remove the tape. Much better than before/after shots, because the light changes, the sun moves, clouds roll in... etc..
Anyhow, speaking of before & after pictures, howabout this:
and this:
The same guy who did the 65 'Stang did a stunning swirl-removal job on a 911 in one thread on that forum... It's very meguiar's product-intensive, but there are some stunningly good people on that forum.
Keith
A commonly used comparison technique is to tape off a section that DOESN'T get the treatment, and see the difference at a 'herd-line' when you remove the tape. Much better than before/after shots, because the light changes, the sun moves, clouds roll in... etc..
Anyhow, speaking of before & after pictures, howabout this:
and this:
The same guy who did the 65 'Stang did a stunning swirl-removal job on a 911 in one thread on that forum... It's very meguiar's product-intensive, but there are some stunningly good people on that forum.
Keith
(see picture)
07-16-2006, 08:51 PM
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Nice write up Geoff - is the 303 easily purchased at like Pep Boys, Autozone, Walmart? I'm going to buy some of this for one of my vehicles that has a plack vinyl dash as well.
07-17-2006, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Markota
very nice
my paint (new red car) already looks like the paint in the last pic, think it would get better with all that or should I let it be?
My silver car has those same porsche script seats torn in the same places...I wish I could find more Porsche script fabric.
my paint (new red car) already looks like the paint in the last pic, think it would get better with all that or should I let it be?
My silver car has those same porsche script seats torn in the same places...I wish I could find more Porsche script fabric.
Mike, I'd recommend one stage of the paint cleaner, Klasse All in one, 4-star ultimate paint protection, followed up with 2 coats of carnuba wax. your car will be visible from space, if you're starting with my end result...
As for the Porsche script fabric, there is one place to get it... it's expensive as hell though... and they're in new zealand. http://www.lemansoriginalfabrics.com/
07-17-2006, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by GOBOGIE
Nice write up Geoff - is the 303 easily purchased at like Pep Boys, Autozone, Walmart? I'm going to buy some of this for one of my vehicles that has a plack vinyl dash as well.