Instructional: Detailing faded old paint...picture heavy
02-06-2007, 01:42 AM
#32
Under the Radar
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 5,869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Geoff, I have a question. How many times do you think it's safe to compound the paint? I'd like to do it once a year, but I already have creases (around the fuel door) where primer is showing because I took too much paint off of the edge.
I have Guards Red syndrome, and although the car is a nice red, it doesn't look as nice as when I compounded the car 3 years ago.
I have Guards Red syndrome, and although the car is a nice red, it doesn't look as nice as when I compounded the car 3 years ago.
02-06-2007, 01:57 AM
#33
Wax On, Wax Off
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 5280 ft above the sea
Posts: 17,727
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally Posted by yellowline
Geoff, I have a question. How many times do you think it's safe to compound the paint? I'd like to do it once a year, but I already have creases (around the fuel door) where primer is showing because I took too much paint off of the edge.
I have Guards Red syndrome, and although the car is a nice red, it doesn't look as nice as when I compounded the car 3 years ago.
I have Guards Red syndrome, and although the car is a nice red, it doesn't look as nice as when I compounded the car 3 years ago.
Basically, the only true way to know is to get a paint thickness gauge. this little SOB is expensive, but it's the only true way of knowing how much your paint can take. I need to get one...
07-15-2008, 12:34 AM
#36
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
07-15-2008, 12:43 AM
#40
Wax On, Wax Off
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 5280 ft above the sea
Posts: 17,727
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Oh, and a quick note, I've changed my products recently to something that I think gives better results. I tend to lean towards Prima products (made here locally) because:
1) supporting a Colorado business
2) it's damn good stuff
3) it's slightly cheaper than the alternative polishes
4) Their polishes are actually polishes, they have multiple grades which used in series will provide (depending on how attentive you are) a flawless finish.
5) it smells good
And I also learned a new technique with the carnuba coat, called "hand waxing" where you literally take a small chunk of wax in your hands, rub em together to melt it, then apply onto the surface of the car. The benefits of this, I have found, are:
1) it's MUCH easier to get a consistent coat of wax on there
2) you can feel where you missed with the clay
3) it makes your hands nice and soft
Detailing is an experimental thing I've found. Basically, reform your technique and your products, but stick to the basics.
1) supporting a Colorado business
2) it's damn good stuff
3) it's slightly cheaper than the alternative polishes
4) Their polishes are actually polishes, they have multiple grades which used in series will provide (depending on how attentive you are) a flawless finish.
5) it smells good
And I also learned a new technique with the carnuba coat, called "hand waxing" where you literally take a small chunk of wax in your hands, rub em together to melt it, then apply onto the surface of the car. The benefits of this, I have found, are:
1) it's MUCH easier to get a consistent coat of wax on there
2) you can feel where you missed with the clay
3) it makes your hands nice and soft
Detailing is an experimental thing I've found. Basically, reform your technique and your products, but stick to the basics.
09-23-2009, 10:20 AM
#45
8th Gear
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Being a newb, hope it's okay to chime in on a few posts in this thread??
First, clay and wax do mask swirls but, neither rid your car of swirls. In fact, if not properly performed, claying can induce marring to your finish. Wax often contain fillers that cover defects in the car's finish. After a few washings, the defects will often reappear - you've removed the wax masking the swirls.
Buffing can in fact be a bit dicey. If you've little to no experience, you have absolutely zero business even touching a rotary buffer. The PC used in the demo is a PC DA orbital - pretty safe and actually used fairly frequently for some levels of correction - really good tool! BTW - The red paint of the pad in this demo would confirm a single stage paint process.
Many modern cars have one good wetsanding and two compoundings/corrrections in them. I measure each car with a digital paint thickness gauge to ensure I have enough product to work on a finish.
The practice of hand application is used primarily because the high end waxes are still enzymes while in their container and the heat from your hands reduces the enzyme into wax. This is one reason why many of us store wax in the fridge.
Finally, if you are servicing a car that is a driver, think of a synthetic sealant vs. a carnuba wax. You can certainly add a nuba as a topper to a sealant but, nuba's won't last as long or protect near as long as a synthetic sealant. Don't get me wrong, Carnauba is the hardest of waxes and, in a form of 100% pure, is said to be harder than concrete. But, unless you are using higher end wax such as Swissvax, Zymol, etc., the carnauba content is going to be low enough that you would be better to apply a sealant. But, as demonstratd in the OP, the preparation/correction is what makes the finish shine its best!!
Quick before/after of a recent correction I performed. Pics are before any wax had been applied and after a wipedown of IPA was performed. This removes fillers from polish and allows you to ensure you actually made a correction vs. masking with filler.
Thanks!
Drew
First, clay and wax do mask swirls but, neither rid your car of swirls. In fact, if not properly performed, claying can induce marring to your finish. Wax often contain fillers that cover defects in the car's finish. After a few washings, the defects will often reappear - you've removed the wax masking the swirls.
Buffing can in fact be a bit dicey. If you've little to no experience, you have absolutely zero business even touching a rotary buffer. The PC used in the demo is a PC DA orbital - pretty safe and actually used fairly frequently for some levels of correction - really good tool! BTW - The red paint of the pad in this demo would confirm a single stage paint process.
Many modern cars have one good wetsanding and two compoundings/corrrections in them. I measure each car with a digital paint thickness gauge to ensure I have enough product to work on a finish.
The practice of hand application is used primarily because the high end waxes are still enzymes while in their container and the heat from your hands reduces the enzyme into wax. This is one reason why many of us store wax in the fridge.
Finally, if you are servicing a car that is a driver, think of a synthetic sealant vs. a carnuba wax. You can certainly add a nuba as a topper to a sealant but, nuba's won't last as long or protect near as long as a synthetic sealant. Don't get me wrong, Carnauba is the hardest of waxes and, in a form of 100% pure, is said to be harder than concrete. But, unless you are using higher end wax such as Swissvax, Zymol, etc., the carnauba content is going to be low enough that you would be better to apply a sealant. But, as demonstratd in the OP, the preparation/correction is what makes the finish shine its best!!
Quick before/after of a recent correction I performed. Pics are before any wax had been applied and after a wipedown of IPA was performed. This removes fillers from polish and allows you to ensure you actually made a correction vs. masking with filler.
Thanks!
Drew
Last edited by Shiney; 09-23-2009 at 11:13 AM.