Porsche 944 Clutch Replacement Problem PLEASE HELP!!!
 

hi, i removed the tranny, pushed the torque tube back, loosen all of the clutch housing bolts. There is a section where you have to unbolt the clutch lever shaft bolt then you screw in an 8mm bolt and hammer it out. This is the procedure before you can remove the clutch housing.

I tried using water pumps held it very tights hammer it, pryed it with a heavy duty screw driver and it won't budge, i even tried to use a heat gun to heat where the shaft exits.

PLEASE HELP

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I use a really long bolt, clamp a visegrip under the head, and pound it out with a hammer. I believe some guys have also done a small homemade slide hammer using the bolt and socket. That bolt can be a pain, just keep at it.

That one can be a real pain in the arse. Soak it with PB blaster or liquid wrench for a few days. I use a pair of large vice grips on the bolt and have made an adapter to get my slide hammer on the end of the vice grip. You might also try carefully heating the bellhousing around the shaft exit with a propane torch. Be careful not to overheat the aluminum though...

Yup you need a LONG bolt or better yet some threaded rod with a nut on the end. Clamp vice grips on after its threaded in, and wack the vice grips with a hammer.

The little locking bolt is out right?

If the bolt is your problem, try PB Blaster. If it's the fork rod that won't come out, try getting a longer 8mm bolt from OSH or something. I just pulled, twisted, and swore. I think taking the clutch slave cylinder out helps a little.

slave is out, the lock bolt is out... i wacked it a few times with a hammer a few times having water pumps clamped on.... there isn't much space there move a hammer back and forth. Crap doesn't move. is there some kind of puller or something?

will a slide hammer really get it out? i know what it is but it doesn't seem like it gives enough force, tried using a bolt with a bunch of sockets and tighten it to try to act like a puller and pull it out but it didn't seem to move. i was worried if i do it too much i would of broken the clutch housing because it's aluminum, so i stopped.

QUESTION: can i just forcefulling ratchet the bolt and turn it until it's moving? there's no flats on the top of the shaft right?

Find a nut and washer to fit your 8mm bolt. You will also need a sleeve, something with an inner diameter larger than the lever shaft. Thread the bolt with the nut washer and sleeve into the lever shaft.
Then tighten the nut against the washer and sleeve and it should 'pull' the shaft out. Kind of hard to explain without a drawing.

You could try turning it as the flat is only at the bottom where the lock bolt goes against it. However, be careful because some people have broken off the 8 mm bolt doing this. If you have the car up high enough, you should be able to get a decent size slide hammer under there. Sorry I don't have any pictures. The other alternative is heat. The corrosion between steel and aluminum can make for a real tight fit. Expanding the aluminum will help.

This really works. I got a couple bronze bushings @ Sears Hardware and did this trick.

A slide hammer would work, but I usually don't have the car high enough to get one under there. The vise grips/whacking it out with a hammer works but is a PITA.

I'll put in a second for "drawing" the shaft out with the bolt/washer/sleeve set up. We tried for hours to hammer it out.

I had trouble with that shaft too. The trick is what theedge said...get a long enough rod so you can swing the hammer hard & fast enough. The length given in the factory shop is too short IMO. I had to buy a 18in long metal rod and tap M8 threads on the ends. Then clamp vise grips and a large washer w/ bolt on the end.....it came right out with a few whacks of the hammer.

Tom
'87 951

that was my method, and it worked great, i think its underestimated how much kinetic energy goes strait to the shaft, but it came out pretty easily with a slide hammer (after failing the bolt and plier method)
http://x11.putfile.com/4/9016305132.jpg

http://x11.putfile.com/4/9016332049.jpg

Oh, Crap!! Here I go again. I thought working the steering knuckle off and on (oil pan gasket R&R) was fun and now that my rear main seal needs replacement, I just know that this is goiing to be fun. Time for another Post.

It's inevitable..you have an oil leak and it's hard to tell if it's coming from the rear pan gasket or RMS. Unless you remove the engine you have to make a choice and do one or the other. I'll bet the percentage of us who have to go back in and do the other one is greater than 50%...