How judge the condition of an S2 cam chain tensioner pad?
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you feel lucky, replace just the upper pad.
That said, the tensioners lose their ability to keep the chain tensioned. I recommend, for peace of mind, to replace the tensioner at 60K miles, and replace the tensioner and chain at 120K miles.
When you look at the cost of a head and labor, the price of the tensioner is dirt cheap.
gb
That said, the tensioners lose their ability to keep the chain tensioned. I recommend, for peace of mind, to replace the tensioner at 60K miles, and replace the tensioner and chain at 120K miles.
When you look at the cost of a head and labor, the price of the tensioner is dirt cheap.
gb
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The tensioner keep tension on the chain is probably a function of how well the tensiorer springs are holding up. Part of the indicated procedure is to press down on the tensioner to relieve the tension on the chain to do the repair. Wouldn't this be a check to make sure that the tensioner is doing that properly?
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Parts arrived today so it was time to remove the cam chain tensioner and closely inspect the pads. I was right. The top pad has a crack that was 1/2 through the width of the pad, towards the left side of the car. I'm glad that I'm going to replace that one this week. If it would have cracked, the entire pad would have been thrown around under the valve cover area, and really messed things up.
The bottom pad looked a little bit worn, but has no cracks whatsoever, so I feel pretty safe in replacing the top pad.
One hint that I'd give everyone reading this thread: take the thing apart first, get the correct model numbers, and order by those numbers. It's not safe to assume that there is only one version of the part.
The bottom pad looked a little bit worn, but has no cracks whatsoever, so I feel pretty safe in replacing the top pad.
One hint that I'd give everyone reading this thread: take the thing apart first, get the correct model numbers, and order by those numbers. It's not safe to assume that there is only one version of the part.
#19
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by eohrnberger
If it would have cracked, the entire pad would have been thrown around under the valve cover area, and really messed things up.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
All this has happend to listers here and my po. I have found six of those teeth loose in my engine.
Good thing you replaced the pad!
#20
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you replacing the gasket, spark plug seals, and maybe the bolt grommets?
Use new crush washers.
Re-torque all bolts properly. I used anti-sieze.
My tensioner was not working right - I never was able to compress it.
___________
white '88 944S
Use new crush washers.
Re-torque all bolts properly. I used anti-sieze.
My tensioner was not working right - I never was able to compress it.
___________
white '88 944S
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The valve cover gasket was already sealing correctly (no leaking), so I think that I'll leave that in, and see what happens. If it ends up leaking I can replace it later.
The spark plug seals were tight and a devil to get off, so I figure they are good and tight, the bolt grommets look pretty new. If I find out that they leak, I can always replace them later as well.
I'll have to get some anti-seize and put it on all the bolts.
My tensioner move easily with what appears to be a good spring rate to it, so I'm going to leave it for now.
The spark plug seals were tight and a devil to get off, so I figure they are good and tight, the bolt grommets look pretty new. If I find out that they leak, I can always replace them later as well.
I'll have to get some anti-seize and put it on all the bolts.
My tensioner move easily with what appears to be a good spring rate to it, so I'm going to leave it for now.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, it's all together now. Brand spanking new top cam chain tensioner pad. Didn't get a chance to run it after I got it put back together, but tonight I'm going to go to the gas station and fill it up.
Yea!
Yea!
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes it sure was. The procedure here was much easier than the one on Clark's garage, but that was including replacing the chain, with which you really would have to re-time the values. Glad I didn't have to go that far into it.
Thanks for all you guys help. Hope I can help you in the future. (Got a computer problem? PM or email me. Been doing them for 20 years).
Thanks for all you guys help. Hope I can help you in the future. (Got a computer problem? PM or email me. Been doing them for 20 years).
#26
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by eohrnberger
One hint that I'd give everyone reading this thread: take the thing apart first, get the correct model numbers, and order by those numbers. It's not safe to assume that there is only one version of the part.
Why don't you just give them the right number?
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by AndyK
MAC's, or PC's ??
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Originally Posted by Peckster
There's more than one tensioner?Why don't you just give them the right number?
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So far so good. The vavle cover gasket is holding and not dripping, and there is no oil getting out by the bolt grommets. I think I'm set.
One thing that I did notice during this is that the lower pad had some grooves, but no cracks. I'd like to reaplce just that sometime soon in the future, but have been unable to find a place that sells that particular part. Does anyone know of where I might be able to buy the lower can chain tensioner pad from? Thanks in advance.
One thing that I did notice during this is that the lower pad had some grooves, but no cracks. I'd like to reaplce just that sometime soon in the future, but have been unable to find a place that sells that particular part. Does anyone know of where I might be able to buy the lower can chain tensioner pad from? Thanks in advance.
#29
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Others have made the attempt to purchase just the lower pad. They have all disappeared into jungle that goes by the name, "you can't buy that inexpensive Porsche part without buying this expensive Porsche part", never to be seen again.
The lower pad comes attached to the ~$300 tensioner.
The lower pad comes attached to the ~$300 tensioner.