MichelleJD

I think the "get real greasy" part will be quite easy

I already have a hoist and I'll be getting the leveler this week. Guess I'll try it out the top!

500

Well it seems people have had good (and bad) luck removing it either out the top or out the bottom. In my own case I dropped the engine out the bottom and found it a pretty easy process (my first solo engine removal). Removing the radiator is necessary as mentioned to allow the engine to slide forward far enough to come off of the splined end of the drive shaft. I had the car elevated to the point that there was 21" clear height between the rear bottom edge of the front fender and was able to slide the engine (on an old carpet) out with room to spare. To elevate the car I used truck type jack stands and have a back up cage made from 4x4 lumber sitting just underneath. However, the way the car sits on the jackstands is very stable and the back up structure is just for peace of mind.

joseph mitro

Harry - see the photos in the link on my signature. i rebuilt my entire engine and documented as much as i could. i don't have a turbo, though; neither did i document much of the removal process, as you can find photos for this in the manuals and such.

M758

I have pulled 4-5 engines out the bottom and one out the top.

Bottom sucked, but the out the top sucked even more.

Like other out the bottom I kept the driveline in place, pulled the radiator and moved the engine forward.

PS.. you can lift the front end of the car using the engine hoist. Works great.
Process .

1) Drop engine to ground or cart.
2) Move engine hoist and attach to frame of the car.
3) Lift front end of the car.
4) Pull engine out from underneath
5) Lower car back to orginal short jack stands.

On another note. Greg Fordahl has some interesting ideas related to cross drilling of cranks to prevent rod bearing failures. It came from some crank flow testing he did.

Mongo

Skip you must've had a really big rat in your crankcase that chews through metal, kinda like Richard Kiel as Jaws in the Bond movies

How is your project coming along? I hate rod bearings...it's also very scary after I think about the fact that mine aren't done yet... Let us know how things are going.

Good luck to you

MichelleJD

Cross drilling or perp drilling? Linsey's page (I believe it's theirs) recommends perp drilling over cross drilling. Where can I find Mr. Fordahl's info?

M758

Follow this thread

http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=4398

Matt O.

Not to disagree with the Skip the Guru, but taking it out the bottom isn't exactly "dumb" either. It's rather simple, really.

theedge

I went out the top with mine, royal bitch because I A) left the clutch slave bolts in their holes and B) left the pullys on the front of the crank. The bolts scratched up the firewall, the pulleys hooked the headlight bar and gave it a tweak

DanG

Just a quick FYI:

I had the engine this far out the top...



But gave up because it wasn't getting any farther without pulling A LOT more stuff off. So I undid the two bolts that hold the cmember to the front a-arm mounts (it was already just hanging by this for oil pan clearance) and it literally DROPPED out of the car. We'll not with a bang or anything, but I just released the engine hoist and the engine slowly decended from the car without any wrestling or cursing whatsoever. Totally justified the funny feeling of dropping vs. hoisting the engine for removal. Sure pulling it out the top SEEMS like the "right" way to do it, but I'm certainly not going to try it that way ever again.

Also, I pulled it with the car level, then dropped the engine to the ground, THEN hoisted the car up to the 30 degree angle, just like M758 mentioned...





Click any of the above pics to see the rest of my clutch/timing belt job pictures.

Zero10

Yep, I had mine about that far out 7 times or so.
It's going in from the bottom, leaving the entire driveline in place, and it's going to work because I said so.

I pulled the rad, since it's only held in by 2 bolts (you have to pull the cooling hoses anyways), and the risk of damaging it was too high, gave me lots of extra room.

Going in/out from the bottom, you can drop the whole front suspension, and it's probably less work than trying to leave it in. Almost everything you have to take off to go out the bottom has to come off / be loosened to go out the top.

Not trying to start an argument here, but I honestly believe out the bottom is far easier, that said, some people also believe CIS is a good fuel injection system.... So, to each their own

Skip

I'll never argue against logic even when the comments are my own. I didn't know (read: ignorant to the fact) that you could remove the engine through the bottom without removing the tranny/tube, etc. This was my main motivation. In my mind, I feel better about lifting the engine rather than the car - and, since I have done it both ways, I do find that lining the engine back up with the drive shaft from the top is not "as" hard (not easy) - you just need a partner to spin the driveshaft while you rock it on. Out the bottom is not dumb, nor is it wrong, it's just not how I will be doing it henceforth. I like crunchy over creamy, so maybe that's it?

There, ya happy now - confounded theorists!

Mighty Shilling

My bearing was worse than yours

Skip

LOL - No they don't. They may say it, but even they don't believe it.

Also, remember, these are the same folks usually driving around with the engine in the wrong end, hauling a picnic table, and hoping they can make it a few more miles than the Harley they just passed.

[straight to hell with me, I know]

Geo

Actually..... lining up the the engine should be the same either way. If you are going in from the bottom, just lift the engine a bit higher before attempting to line it up, right?

That's communism, pure and simple....