engine out the top + rod bearing carnage
04-25-2005, 02:03 AM
#31
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[EDIT: yeah, yeah - this was written by a sucker - been schooled, k]
Okay, some folks who either haven't pulled an engine or haven't tried it from the top need to know the facts.
Pulling from the bottom requires a few things that are non-negotiable:
- remove entire exhaust
- remove drive shafts (at least the tranny side. Don't forget, you're advised to replace the CV bolts)
- decouple shift linkage (I've had varying amounts of trouble with this - safe to say it's not fun, ever)
- remove transaxle (not that hard, after the hour or more that you already wasted getting to this point. And, the tranny is relatively heavy at ~100# and awkward. It's also not easy getting to the coupler nor is getting it line up right ever too simple).
- disconnect central tube from engine (required for out the top, of course)
- slide central tube back, cocked (eh, not so bad I guess)
- remove clutch slave and starter
- disconnect the engine as needed. Can leave header on "if" stock. I have a Bursch header than must come off before dropping (or lifting - screwed either way)
- drop entire front suspension, including disconnecting PS lines (unless you're really creative - not worth the hassle)
- if equipped, remove AC compressor from engine
- now, if you don't have a lift, this is the most fun part. You must lift the car to at least 30" to slide the engine out. If you have the means to lift the car, you likely have the means to lift the engine, yes? If you have a lift, well, good for you.
- That's about it, more or less. Don't forget you need a way to safely hold and lower the engine while the crossmember is not in. Folks (me) sometimes use an engine hoist for this - lowering the engine to the floor once the crossmember is out of the way. Then, these same folks (me) may use the engine hoist to lift the car over the engine. Hmm, I wonder if the pictures of this will be entered into evidence at my competency hearings?
Now, it's not like I'm trying to sell you auto parts, right. [snicker] No ulterior motives here.
Out the top:
- remove at least the front exhaust section.
- remove the clutch slave and starter.
- disconnect the central tube (just remove the 4 bolts).
- remove PS pump from engine - leave hanging from lines (thoughtfully)
- if equipped, remove AC compressor from engine - leave hangin from lines (thoughtfully)
- disconnect engine harness, fuel lines, etc.
- remove electric fans.
- suspend engine with hoist.
- disconnect engine mounts (from top)
- drop front crossmember at least 6-8 inches (this allows you to keep the PS fluid lines attached. You basically drop the 4 bolts to the crossmember, the control ar to body mounts and the steering shaft input linkage.
- remove crank accessory pulleys (only - not the timing and balance shaft parts - this is only necessary because it will bind on the hood latch when coming out)
- carefully get engine far enough forward to be free of the drive shaft, then lift out.
You be the judge.
This is not a detailed write-up - If I missed something, blame Negra Modelo, not me
Okay, some folks who either haven't pulled an engine or haven't tried it from the top need to know the facts.
Pulling from the bottom requires a few things that are non-negotiable:
- remove entire exhaust
- remove drive shafts (at least the tranny side. Don't forget, you're advised to replace the CV bolts)
- decouple shift linkage (I've had varying amounts of trouble with this - safe to say it's not fun, ever)
- remove transaxle (not that hard, after the hour or more that you already wasted getting to this point. And, the tranny is relatively heavy at ~100# and awkward. It's also not easy getting to the coupler nor is getting it line up right ever too simple).
- disconnect central tube from engine (required for out the top, of course)
- slide central tube back, cocked (eh, not so bad I guess)
- remove clutch slave and starter
- disconnect the engine as needed. Can leave header on "if" stock. I have a Bursch header than must come off before dropping (or lifting - screwed either way)
- drop entire front suspension, including disconnecting PS lines (unless you're really creative - not worth the hassle)
- if equipped, remove AC compressor from engine
- now, if you don't have a lift, this is the most fun part. You must lift the car to at least 30" to slide the engine out. If you have the means to lift the car, you likely have the means to lift the engine, yes? If you have a lift, well, good for you.
- That's about it, more or less. Don't forget you need a way to safely hold and lower the engine while the crossmember is not in. Folks (me) sometimes use an engine hoist for this - lowering the engine to the floor once the crossmember is out of the way. Then, these same folks (me) may use the engine hoist to lift the car over the engine. Hmm, I wonder if the pictures of this will be entered into evidence at my competency hearings?
Now, it's not like I'm trying to sell you auto parts, right. [snicker]
No ulterior motives here.Out the top:
- remove at least the front exhaust section.
- remove the clutch slave and starter.
- disconnect the central tube (just remove the 4 bolts).
- remove PS pump from engine - leave hanging from lines (thoughtfully)
- if equipped, remove AC compressor from engine - leave hangin from lines (thoughtfully)
- disconnect engine harness, fuel lines, etc.
- remove electric fans.
- suspend engine with hoist.
- disconnect engine mounts (from top)
- drop front crossmember at least 6-8 inches (this allows you to keep the PS fluid lines attached. You basically drop the 4 bolts to the crossmember, the control ar to body mounts and the steering shaft input linkage.
- remove crank accessory pulleys (only - not the timing and balance shaft parts - this is only necessary because it will bind on the hood latch when coming out)
- carefully get engine far enough forward to be free of the drive shaft, then lift out.
You be the judge.
This is not a detailed write-up - If I missed something, blame Negra Modelo, not me
Last edited by Skip; 04-25-2005 at 09:48 PM.
04-25-2005, 02:09 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by MichelleJD
What do you consider "proper tools" for coming out the top? Mine'll be coming out shortly and I'm still contemplating which way to go.
Michelle, If you do this; get real greasy, grab an air gun, point at engine, then have a friend take a picture. It's the holy grail of porsche-owning-greasy-chicks-with-guns-gone-wild
04-25-2005, 02:11 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by david fracolli
Skip you should put up a warning before posting a picture like that
04-25-2005, 02:32 AM
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Hey Skip,
It’ll be awesome if you can document the whole repair here on this post. I value your attention to detail.
Don’t forget that some of the rennlister’s considering engine R&I have 951’s with a turbocharger and additional plumbing that goes with it.
It’ll be awesome if you can document the whole repair here on this post. I value your attention to detail.
Don’t forget that some of the rennlister’s considering engine R&I have 951’s with a turbocharger and additional plumbing that goes with it.
04-25-2005, 02:41 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Skip
Okay, some folks who either haven't pulled an engine or haven't tried it from the top need to know the facts.
Pulling from the bottom requires a few things that are non-negotiable:
- remove drive shafts (at least the tranny side. Don't forget, you're advised to replace the CV bolts)
- decouple shift linkage (I've had varying amounts of trouble with this - safe to say it's not fun, ever)
- remove transaxle (not that hard, after the hour or more that you already wasted getting to this point. And, the tranny is relatively heavy at ~100# and awkward. It's also not easy getting to the coupler nor is getting it line up right ever too simple).
- slide central tube back, cocked (eh, not so bad I guess)
- if equipped, remove AC compressor from engine
This is not a detailed write-up - If I missed something, blame Negra Modelo, not me
Pulling from the bottom requires a few things that are non-negotiable:
- remove drive shafts (at least the tranny side. Don't forget, you're advised to replace the CV bolts)
- decouple shift linkage (I've had varying amounts of trouble with this - safe to say it's not fun, ever)
- remove transaxle (not that hard, after the hour or more that you already wasted getting to this point. And, the tranny is relatively heavy at ~100# and awkward. It's also not easy getting to the coupler nor is getting it line up right ever too simple).
- slide central tube back, cocked (eh, not so bad I guess)
- if equipped, remove AC compressor from engine
This is not a detailed write-up - If I missed something, blame Negra Modelo, not me
Having to remove an engine is a pain...
04-25-2005, 02:43 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Bii
Hey Skip,
It’ll be awesome if you can document the whole repair here on this post. I value your attention to detail.
Don’t forget that some of the rennlister’s considering engine R&I have 951’s with a turbocharger and additional plumbing that goes with it.
It’ll be awesome if you can document the whole repair here on this post. I value your attention to detail.
Don’t forget that some of the rennlister’s considering engine R&I have 951’s with a turbocharger and additional plumbing that goes with it.
It' not too late to trade in the complicated 951 for a real ride like the na, you know
04-25-2005, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by David Floyd
Now I have not been out the top, so I can't say which is best... but if you remove the radiator, all the above can stay in place for bottom removal.
Having to remove an engine is a pain...
04-25-2005, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Skip
I'll do what I can. Taking pictures along the way.
It' not too late to trade in the complicated 951 for a real ride like the na, you know
It' not too late to trade in the complicated 951 for a real ride like the na, you know
Skip,
I had an immaculate 1983 944 in sapphire metallic and sold it in 1994. I would of never sold it if I had it today. It served me well and loved its simplicity.
04-25-2005, 03:07 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by Porschephile 924
Ok. I've got one to beat that... Yes...that's both shells stuck together...
04-25-2005, 03:48 AM
#42
Race Car
Skip, I don't do any of the below when I remove from the bottom.
- remove entire exhaust
- remove drive shafts (at least the tranny side. Don't forget, you're advised to replace the CV bolts)
- decouple shift linkage (I've had varying amounts of trouble with this - safe to say it's not fun, ever)
- remove transaxle (not that hard, after the hour or more that you already wasted getting to this point. And, the tranny is relatively heavy at ~100# and awkward. It's also not easy getting to the coupler nor is getting it line up right ever too simple).
- disconnect central tube from engine (required for out the top, of course)
- slide central tube back, cocked (eh, not so bad I guess)
Nothing behind the bell housing is removed for my engine removals other than the cat.. I also leave the a/c compressor, cross member, steering rack with the engine and drop them all at the same time. I even leave the struts, control arms, and brake calipers on the car. I am not sure whether you tried removing from the bottom this way, but I can do it myself where removing the hood and trying to reinstall it without breaking the windshield is a challenge. If you don't have a big jack, remove the head first and drop the rest out of the bottom since the motor has to be apart anyways and its really easy. Once the head is off the car (1 1/2 hour), I can have the block out in about an hour normally.
- remove entire exhaust
- remove drive shafts (at least the tranny side. Don't forget, you're advised to replace the CV bolts)
- decouple shift linkage (I've had varying amounts of trouble with this - safe to say it's not fun, ever)
- remove transaxle (not that hard, after the hour or more that you already wasted getting to this point. And, the tranny is relatively heavy at ~100# and awkward. It's also not easy getting to the coupler nor is getting it line up right ever too simple).
- disconnect central tube from engine (required for out the top, of course)
- slide central tube back, cocked (eh, not so bad I guess)
Nothing behind the bell housing is removed for my engine removals other than the cat.. I also leave the a/c compressor, cross member, steering rack with the engine and drop them all at the same time. I even leave the struts, control arms, and brake calipers on the car. I am not sure whether you tried removing from the bottom this way, but I can do it myself where removing the hood and trying to reinstall it without breaking the windshield is a challenge. If you don't have a big jack, remove the head first and drop the rest out of the bottom since the motor has to be apart anyways and its really easy. Once the head is off the car (1 1/2 hour), I can have the block out in about an hour normally.
04-25-2005, 10:47 AM
#44
Three Wheelin'
Tried wrestling my engine out the top for about 5 hours. Wrestle with it, find whats hitting, take that off. Wrestle with it some more, find another something hitting, take that off... Repeat about 20 times, and still not get it out. So I got frustrated, took the crossmember out (it was already just hanging for oil pan clearance, and had the engine on the ground in about 2 minutes. It was so easy to drop down I was embarrassed for the amount of time I spent trying to wrestle it out the top.
Get some wheel chocks and a set of truck jackstands, and you'll be plenty safe under your car doing the 'engine drop wheelie'. I have the truck stands on the framerails close to the engine, and another set of regular car jackstands right behind them 'just in case'. Car is very stable, I did a couple hip checks in all directions before I went under it.
Get some wheel chocks and a set of truck jackstands, and you'll be plenty safe under your car doing the 'engine drop wheelie'. I have the truck stands on the framerails close to the engine, and another set of regular car jackstands right behind them 'just in case'. Car is very stable, I did a couple hip checks in all directions before I went under it.
