Rear oil seal.
#16
Originally Posted by Granite 944
WOW......whats all this "color" stuff have to do with determining if a seal is any good or not?
#19
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Any seal is better than no seal, although I'm sure certain types are a little better over time than others. . .
I've heard horror stories about certain rebuilders (no names, but some of you can probably figure it out) completely forgetting to put the rear seal in. Yep. That's a lot of fun after re-installing an engine to have to rip it out again. . .
I've heard horror stories about certain rebuilders (no names, but some of you can probably figure it out) completely forgetting to put the rear seal in. Yep. That's a lot of fun after re-installing an engine to have to rip it out again. . .
#20
Race Director
"do you need to remove the transmission/clutch to replace the rear main seal? mine is leaking as well."
IMHO, it's faster to remove the engine to replace that rear main seal. I got a red/brown one from a local auto-parts store, NAPA, I think...
Personally, I think both the black and red/brown one works the same, haven't had problems with either. I suspect installation technique has a lot to do with it. Use a seal-driver or make one. Don't try to hammer it in by hitting one spot at a time and going around and around or alternating the spot, it will deform the seal ever so slightly and put uneven pressure on the outside and/or inside. Due to the soft rubber, you may not be able to detect this deformity. Last resort if you can't get a seal-driver, make one out of 1x2" chunks of wood. Build a square that fits over the seal so it touches on four sides. Put a 2x4 over the top of this square and pound straight in (lube seal first).
IMHO, it's faster to remove the engine to replace that rear main seal. I got a red/brown one from a local auto-parts store, NAPA, I think...
Personally, I think both the black and red/brown one works the same, haven't had problems with either. I suspect installation technique has a lot to do with it. Use a seal-driver or make one. Don't try to hammer it in by hitting one spot at a time and going around and around or alternating the spot, it will deform the seal ever so slightly and put uneven pressure on the outside and/or inside. Due to the soft rubber, you may not be able to detect this deformity. Last resort if you can't get a seal-driver, make one out of 1x2" chunks of wood. Build a square that fits over the seal so it touches on four sides. Put a 2x4 over the top of this square and pound straight in (lube seal first).