EuroWerks 944 Racecar (pimp my race ride)
06-26-2004, 10:12 AM
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
George, I built the cage with Walt Puckett of Delta Group in Shelby, NC (as we didn't have the facilities for cage building at that time.) Walt has an impressive background in racing/fabrication and is a valuable resource in this area.
Apparently, you and I have a lot of the same notions on distribution of stress, where the IMPORTANT vs. unimportant areas of the chassis are, safety, etc.
Rob Anders is color-meister for this build (and is doing a lot of the fab work with me, also) Everything that is not silver-blue (original color) is because of his volunteer work. The base car stared with 6 repaints/ repairs (20+ coats of silver blue, clear, primer!!!). Chemical stripper (not your sister on crack) was used to remove all the old material and was followed by many hours of prep work leading us to the current state.
As of today the car will be in the spray booth getting the final exterior coats. More pics to follow soon.
Apparently, you and I have a lot of the same notions on distribution of stress, where the IMPORTANT vs. unimportant areas of the chassis are, safety, etc.
Rob Anders is color-meister for this build (and is doing a lot of the fab work with me, also) Everything that is not silver-blue (original color) is because of his volunteer work. The base car stared with 6 repaints/ repairs (20+ coats of silver blue, clear, primer!!!). Chemical stripper (not your sister on crack) was used to remove all the old material and was followed by many hours of prep work leading us to the current state.
As of today the car will be in the spray booth getting the final exterior coats. More pics to follow soon.
06-26-2004, 02:45 PM
#32
Race Director
Originally posted by keith
George, I built the cage with Walt Puckett of Delta Group in Shelby, NC (as we didn't have the facilities for cage building at that time.) Walt has an impressive background in racing/fabrication and is a valuable resource in this area.
George, I built the cage with Walt Puckett of Delta Group in Shelby, NC (as we didn't have the facilities for cage building at that time.) Walt has an impressive background in racing/fabrication and is a valuable resource in this area.
Originally posted by keith
Apparently, you and I have a lot of the same notions on distribution of stress, where the IMPORTANT vs. unimportant areas of the chassis are, safety, etc.
Apparently, you and I have a lot of the same notions on distribution of stress, where the IMPORTANT vs. unimportant areas of the chassis are, safety, etc.
Originally posted by keith
Rob Anders is color-meister for this build (and is doing a lot of the fab work with me, also) Everything that is not silver-blue (original color) is because of his volunteer work. The base car stared with 6 repaints/ repairs (20+ coats of silver blue, clear, primer!!!). Chemical stripper (not your sister on crack) was used to remove all the old material and was followed by many hours of prep work leading us to the current state.
As of today the car will be in the spray booth getting the final exterior coats. More pics to follow soon.
Rob Anders is color-meister for this build (and is doing a lot of the fab work with me, also) Everything that is not silver-blue (original color) is because of his volunteer work. The base car stared with 6 repaints/ repairs (20+ coats of silver blue, clear, primer!!!). Chemical stripper (not your sister on crack) was used to remove all the old material and was followed by many hours of prep work leading us to the current state.
As of today the car will be in the spray booth getting the final exterior coats. More pics to follow soon.
Did you chemically strip the interior as well? I'm getting close to being able to paint mine and am trying to figure out exactly what I'm going to do for prep. I'm sure I'll be buying a lot of Scotchbrite pads and wheels. I've debated removing all the seam sealer and at this time it looks like I'll be leaving it. Part of the compromises to get it on the track this year.
I may end up in Greensboro later this year on vacation. If so, I'd love to get together for a beer and to see your car.
Oh, I got the window net almost 100% in yesterday. I'm waiting for the gussets for the door bars (shipping Monday) and the last part for the window net will go on after the gussets. My lower rear net bar actually pivots in a rod end.
I'll try to post a photo later if the weather cooperates.
06-26-2004, 10:24 PM
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Geo
Keith, he did a bloody good job on your cage. I see so much crap that it's really exiting seeing a really good one - both design and execution.
Keith, he did a bloody good job on your cage. I see so much crap that it's really exiting seeing a really good one - both design and execution.
I'm glad tou are enjoying the pictures. Check the gallery for some more, and at some point I'll get them into some sort of chronology.
06-28-2004, 12:05 AM
#35
2nd Gear
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The car is now painted (after a 15 hour day) and waiting to return back to the shop. It took 6 hours to prep and paint time after arriving at the paint shop. This brings the prep/paint total to a whopping 60+ hours just for paint!!!
Application went as follows:
1 coat of white sealer ( for color hold-out) - 20 min flash time
3 coats of base - 20mins flash between coats/ 45mins after 3rd coat
4 coats of clear - 30 mins flash between coats
I shot PPG Omni series base colour with Keystone's high solds clear on top through a SATA JET 90 inspired gravity feed gun with 40psi line pressure in a 82 degree booth. All catalists and reducers were medium grade. All this means nothing if you are not a painter.
Bottom line: good quality paint & materials, kick *** prep work and an ok painter = a great looking car that you WILL NOT miss on the track!
From this point we will sand the few spots where foreign matter got in the clear coat (a fact of life) and buff the surface. Next will be the final painting & fitting of the nose, bumpers, sunroof and mirrors.
I would like to thank all the guys at the shop ( Jimmy, Keef, Gene, Adam, Craig and Bob) for their help in this long process and giving me the chance to get involved with such a great group of guys. I tend to be a bit **** about painting cars and they were happy to keep me on track. Also, a tip of the hat to Chris at the Body Shop for lending his booth for the project...it doesn't get any better than a down-draft booth for spray work!
I hope I get the chance to stay on for the build.
Application went as follows:
1 coat of white sealer ( for color hold-out) - 20 min flash time
3 coats of base - 20mins flash between coats/ 45mins after 3rd coat
4 coats of clear - 30 mins flash between coats
I shot PPG Omni series base colour with Keystone's high solds clear on top through a SATA JET 90 inspired gravity feed gun with 40psi line pressure in a 82 degree booth. All catalists and reducers were medium grade. All this means nothing if you are not a painter.
Bottom line: good quality paint & materials, kick *** prep work and an ok painter = a great looking car that you WILL NOT miss on the track!
From this point we will sand the few spots where foreign matter got in the clear coat (a fact of life) and buff the surface. Next will be the final painting & fitting of the nose, bumpers, sunroof and mirrors.
I would like to thank all the guys at the shop ( Jimmy, Keef, Gene, Adam, Craig and Bob) for their help in this long process and giving me the chance to get involved with such a great group of guys. I tend to be a bit **** about painting cars and they were happy to keep me on track. Also, a tip of the hat to Chris at the Body Shop for lending his booth for the project...it doesn't get any better than a down-draft booth for spray work!
I hope I get the chance to stay on for the build.
Last edited by RANDERS; 06-28-2004 at 12:28 AM.
06-28-2004, 12:37 AM
#36
Race Director
Originally posted by RANDERS
Application went as follows:
1 coat of white sealer ( for color hold-out) - 20 min flash time
3 coats of base - 20mins flash between coats/ 45mins after 3rd coat
4 coats of clear - 30 mins flash between coats
Application went as follows:
1 coat of white sealer ( for color hold-out) - 20 min flash time
3 coats of base - 20mins flash between coats/ 45mins after 3rd coat
4 coats of clear - 30 mins flash between coats
I assume you have to thoroughly clean the gun between materials (sealer, base, clear). Is this correct? Or do you just do something like run thinner through it and let the two materials sort of shoot together on the first coat? Sorry for a stupid question, but I've never sprayed anything like this before and will have to spray my car later this year. In fact, my car will have two base colors. I assume the one will have to dry thoroughly before masking and shooting the other. Correct?
Again, sorry for the dumb questions. Learning as I go.
Looking forward to seeing the photos.
06-28-2004, 01:28 AM
#37
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2004
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GEORGE,
Most painters will use one gun for base color and one only for clear. Between base colors you can get away with a quick rinse of the cup and wiping the air head and cup with a lint free towel. While shooting this car, I did have a little color ( white specks the size of a pin head) come out in the final coat of clear due to poor cleaning of the gun...it can be resolved with the buffing but could prove costly and distracting it it were in the first coat of clear. The solvents in the clear seem to melt any and all other materials that are hiding in the gun, so it is best to spray with two different units entirely.
When shooting multi-color jobs...I like to spray the whole car with the first color all over and then "lock" it in with a couple coats of clear and let dry overnight. Resand the whole car again with 600 grit wet or dry paper and then mask the area off that will be the first color using 1/8" striping tape for the edges ( it will yield a crisper line). You can then spray the second base color, unmask and shoot 4 coats of clear on the whole car...you may want an extra coat of clear if you plan on doing some heavy buffing.
A good source for tech on painting is a book called, Boyd Coddington's How to paint your Hot Rod by Timothy Remus. It gives you a fair amount of info on body work/prep/painting using old and new materials. You may also look into taking a class at your local tech school for info and facilities use...they normaly run a few hundred bucks but you can expect to pay that for use of a booth...I recommend you don't spray any where but in a booth. These materials ARE VERY LEATHAL to breathe or even let contact your skin...be safe and protect yourself.
Check out the "new" pics from the paint session on the previous link
Drop me a line if you need more info.
Most painters will use one gun for base color and one only for clear. Between base colors you can get away with a quick rinse of the cup and wiping the air head and cup with a lint free towel. While shooting this car, I did have a little color ( white specks the size of a pin head) come out in the final coat of clear due to poor cleaning of the gun...it can be resolved with the buffing but could prove costly and distracting it it were in the first coat of clear. The solvents in the clear seem to melt any and all other materials that are hiding in the gun, so it is best to spray with two different units entirely.
When shooting multi-color jobs...I like to spray the whole car with the first color all over and then "lock" it in with a couple coats of clear and let dry overnight. Resand the whole car again with 600 grit wet or dry paper and then mask the area off that will be the first color using 1/8" striping tape for the edges ( it will yield a crisper line). You can then spray the second base color, unmask and shoot 4 coats of clear on the whole car...you may want an extra coat of clear if you plan on doing some heavy buffing.
A good source for tech on painting is a book called, Boyd Coddington's How to paint your Hot Rod by Timothy Remus. It gives you a fair amount of info on body work/prep/painting using old and new materials. You may also look into taking a class at your local tech school for info and facilities use...they normaly run a few hundred bucks but you can expect to pay that for use of a booth...I recommend you don't spray any where but in a booth. These materials ARE VERY LEATHAL to breathe or even let contact your skin...be safe and protect yourself.
Check out the "new" pics from the paint session on the previous link
Drop me a line if you need more info.
06-28-2004, 01:56 AM
#38
Race Director
Thanks for the info! I may be in touch for more. I'll also try to get my hands on the book.
I only have one gun and will have to make do. From what you have said, would it be OK to let each color dry overnight before spraying the clear? That would allow me to thoroughly clean the gun at least.
No booth either I'm afraid. I'm going to have to do the best I can with what I have available.
I only have one gun and will have to make do. From what you have said, would it be OK to let each color dry overnight before spraying the clear? That would allow me to thoroughly clean the gun at least.
No booth either I'm afraid. I'm going to have to do the best I can with what I have available.
06-28-2004, 03:13 AM
#40
Race Director
Here's a shot of my lower rear window net bracket. I weld like a two left fisted monkey. Thankfully my neighbor does wonderful welding and he did all the cage tubes. Anyway, the spherical bearing allows the lower bar to drop below the middle of the X. The front will be captured in a loop between the tubes of the X. I've got to get the gussets in first though.
06-29-2004, 12:19 PM
#42
Race Director
I just saw them. I'm talking with someone right now and recommending the cage builder. I still cannot say enough about that cage. I've seen so few good cages for a 944 and that one is seriously top shelf.
The car is looking good. Wish mine were coming along so quickly. I definitely need to get mine done for the fall season (screw racing in summer in Texas!).
The car is looking good. Wish mine were coming along so quickly. I definitely need to get mine done for the fall season (screw racing in summer in Texas!).
06-29-2004, 04:54 PM
#45
Three Wheelin'
Keith:
I just want to get a chance to see some serious racing up close and personal, and if that means I need to turn a wrench or two, then so be it.
Besides, I know that privateers need all of the help they can get.
I just want to get a chance to see some serious racing up close and personal, and if that means I need to turn a wrench or two, then so be it.
Besides, I know that privateers need all of the help they can get.