Oil on Spark plug threads?
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Oil on Spark plug threads?
Not too long ago, I decided to start doing full maintenance on my 1984 944 and, when I took off the spark plugs, I noticed oil on the threads a bit in the holes. All 4 spark plugs were oily...
What could be the cause of this issue?
I also found some oil under the balancing shaft, what could be the cause of this leak? I was thinking maybe the O-ring of the balancing shaft? Any leads?
What could be the cause of this issue?
I also found some oil under the balancing shaft, what could be the cause of this leak? I was thinking maybe the O-ring of the balancing shaft? Any leads?
#2
Three Wheelin'
How much oil is that in plug holes? I can't tell. But it is good practice to apply a bit of oil to the spark plug threads upon installation to prevent seizing. It's possible that too much oil was applied.
Leaks from the balance shaft seals as well as the crank shaft or cam shaft seals are not very uncommon. I recommend looking at these rather incredible diagrams for guidance (not sure what year your car is but do check the right diagram) :
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...944_parts.php#
Leaks from the balance shaft seals as well as the crank shaft or cam shaft seals are not very uncommon. I recommend looking at these rather incredible diagrams for guidance (not sure what year your car is but do check the right diagram) :
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...944_parts.php#
#3
Track Day
Thread Starter
It wasn`t a huge amount but still enough to be alarmed.
Are the pictures loading for you?
I have an early model car, 1985.1 North American Model 944
I doubt that that leak is from the camshaft as I would`ve seen more oil on the top part of the engine coming from the cam tower and the crank wouldnt leak on top of the crank, would it?
Are the pictures loading for you?
I have an early model car, 1985.1 North American Model 944
I doubt that that leak is from the camshaft as I would`ve seen more oil on the top part of the engine coming from the cam tower and the crank wouldnt leak on top of the crank, would it?
#4
Three Wheelin'
The pics are loading but I don't see any oil adjacent to the hole you showed so I would clean it up and not worry about it if I were you. Is it the same in all the holes?
And I agree, that does look like an upper balance shaft seal leak.
And I agree, that does look like an upper balance shaft seal leak.
#5
Track Day
Thread Starter
I'll clean the holes today and let you know if there's any oil after runnning the engine a bit...
Would a Q-Tip do the job to clean it?
As for the balancing shaft, the bottom of the cap feels pretty oily so I`m fairly certain its leaking now. Where could I get a seal kit for those for not too much money?
Would a Q-Tip do the job to clean it?
As for the balancing shaft, the bottom of the cap feels pretty oily so I`m fairly certain its leaking now. Where could I get a seal kit for those for not too much money?
#6
Three Wheelin'
Anything that is absorptive and won't leave behind little fibers will work.
I would recommend pelicanparts.com for things like that. Additionally, you can search part numbers in google to see if other reputable sources, like arnnworx, paragon, rennbay, or zim's sells them
Good luck!
I would recommend pelicanparts.com for things like that. Additionally, you can search part numbers in google to see if other reputable sources, like arnnworx, paragon, rennbay, or zim's sells them
Good luck!
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Habofro (07-17-2019)
#7
Drifting
I'll clean the holes today and let you know if there's any oil after runnning the engine a bit...
Would a Q-Tip do the job to clean it?
As for the balancing shaft, the bottom of the cap feels pretty oily so I`m fairly certain its leaking now. Where could I get a seal kit for those for not too much money?
Would a Q-Tip do the job to clean it?
As for the balancing shaft, the bottom of the cap feels pretty oily so I`m fairly certain its leaking now. Where could I get a seal kit for those for not too much money?
He also maintains and services many local Porsches ...
1900 Norman , Lachine
514-633-1497
Cheers
Phil
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#8
I'd recommend an entire front engine reseal and timing belt/balance belt/waterpump/pulley replacement since you'll be removing these items (except the water pump) in order to service the seals. FCP Euro may have the parts you're after. You'll also need tools to perform the timing and balance belt and pulley removal/install. All in all its a fairly labor intensive job to do it, but once its done, it'll go another 45K without issue.
You might also replace the oil pump gear and seals on the crankshaft if you haven't already.
Also, Curil T is a great sealant - check it out.
You might also replace the oil pump gear and seals on the crankshaft if you haven't already.
Also, Curil T is a great sealant - check it out.
#9
Track Day
Thread Starter
Anything that is absorptive and won't leave behind little fibers will work.
I would recommend pelicanparts.com for things like that. Additionally, you can search part numbers in google to see if other reputable sources, like arnnworx, paragon, rennbay, or zim's sells them
Good luck!
I would recommend pelicanparts.com for things like that. Additionally, you can search part numbers in google to see if other reputable sources, like arnnworx, paragon, rennbay, or zim's sells them
Good luck!
Any special tool I'll need to do this job?
I'll be doing the belt change while I'm there
#11
Check out arnnworx.com for tools and he also has great DIY stuff on his site. Bruce is a great guy BTW. I have several of his tools - wrenches for the balance belt adjustment and to remove the balance shaft gears, belt tensioning tool, flywheel lock, etc. All good stuff.
#12
Three Wheelin'
The two special tools I use for belts changes are a flywheel lock and a pair of 90-degree needle nose pliers (I think it's harbor freight -- got them at the auto parts store...and they come in handy for other things ALL the time ... no way are they as sturdy as Arnnworx's version, I'm sure). Good luck! Working on the 944 is fun, satisfying, and saves you money.
#13
Former Vendor
I'd recommend an entire front engine reseal and timing belt/balance belt/waterpump/pulley replacement since you'll be removing these items (except the water pump) in order to service the seals. FCP Euro may have the parts you're after. You'll also need tools to perform the timing and balance belt and pulley removal/install. All in all its a fairly labor intensive job to do it, but once its done, it'll go another 45K without issue.
You might also replace the oil pump gear and seals on the crankshaft if you haven't already.
Also, Curil T is a great sealant - check it out.
You might also replace the oil pump gear and seals on the crankshaft if you haven't already.
Also, Curil T is a great sealant - check it out.
#14
Rennlist Member
The spark plug wells are not connected to any sort of source of oil like on a 16V car. There is no way for oil to get in there from the engine itself.
It is most likely what others stated above or a leaky PCV hose coming off of the air oil separator.
It is most likely what others stated above or a leaky PCV hose coming off of the air oil separator.
#15
Drifting
if you clean the entire motor, the source(s)s of leak(s) is more evident.
on the plugs....screw the plug back in and either squirt some cleaner in there and blast it out with an air hose.. or a non flammable cleaner and a shop vac hose choked down with some smaller hose.
plugs effectively use crush type washers and never seal as good the second time. don't let anything go into the plug hole.
it is good to put neversieze on steel to aluminum connections. kinda normal to see a little goop there.
plus 1 to fpc. great prices and unbeatable guarantee on parts.
if you are going to touch the front of the motor...go all in. if one seal leaks, the others are sure to follow. start from the thermostat back to the onion skin seals. races and all.
its easier to do the oil cooler/exchanger housing at this time also. read the manual and use the proper dressings in the appropriate area.
on the plugs....screw the plug back in and either squirt some cleaner in there and blast it out with an air hose.. or a non flammable cleaner and a shop vac hose choked down with some smaller hose.
plugs effectively use crush type washers and never seal as good the second time. don't let anything go into the plug hole.
it is good to put neversieze on steel to aluminum connections. kinda normal to see a little goop there.
plus 1 to fpc. great prices and unbeatable guarantee on parts.
if you are going to touch the front of the motor...go all in. if one seal leaks, the others are sure to follow. start from the thermostat back to the onion skin seals. races and all.
its easier to do the oil cooler/exchanger housing at this time also. read the manual and use the proper dressings in the appropriate area.