Seattle 993

Question for the more experienced...

1988 Turbo S, doing some R&R, alternator out, turbo out, AOS out. Thought I would replace the reference & speed sensor (which are stuck in the bracket) by removing the bracket. Its a late model which has the 3rd sensor for TDC and makes for a wider bracket. In any case, it seems that the bracket is hung up on either (A) the sleeve around the pivot bolt (right hand side of pic) or (B) one or both of the sensors which I cannot remove (have penetrating oil on both sensors now, they rotate but won't pull out). Bracket has been rotated but without removing the sensors I don't think I can properly gap for the .8MM. Car runs fine and I'm not fond of breaking things BUT I would sure like to take of this while I have a straight shot at it with all the stuff removed.

Advice? Other than walk away and have a drink...

Seems like the options are (1) remove sensors after penetrating oil if I can, then proceed, (2) leave it alone (but how do I gap the sensors), (3) slide a multitool blade between the block and bracket to cut the pivot sleeve (not to fond of this idea...but may need to).

951and944S

Yes, cutting the dowel and just replacing it along with the new sensors seems like the best plan in your situation.

Since the sensors are going to be replaced either way, have you tried slightly prying while rotating them...?

Should be able to get a small one of these in there -



T

jhowell371

Read this thread, and make the tool I pictured in one of my posts..
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-any-tips.html

Seattle 993

Thanks for the insight guys. Nice to know you guys have been there done that.

JHowell371, brilliant tool BTW. I just posted that pic on the 944 turbo board and said pretty clever tool. I’m gonna build one - thank you!

Seattle 993

Thought I'd share my approach in removing the bracket. I have an 88 turbo S and it turns out that my bell housing has two holes (one for each sensor) as opposed to the slot (that will get rectified when the clutch is replaced at some future date). The speed sensor (toward the fire wall as seized HARD, I couldn't remove it with a gear puller and resorted to a vice, large brass punch and a hammer and had to punch it downward - would've been toward the flywheel to remove it). So, in hindsight, there was no way to get the rear sensor out period (at least in my lifetime).

So, after using two large screwdrivers and a hammer to gently move the bracket toward the firewall in order to make room for a blade (about 1/4 inch), I took a dremel with a cut-off wheel and initiated a cut into the tensioner sleeve which surrounds the bottom bolt (drivers side) of the bracket. The bolts had both been removed at this point. I finished the cut with a multi-tool and bi-metal blade. I cut at the bracket leaving about a 1/4 inch of the remaining tensioner sleeve on the block which the bracket will continue to pivot when the gap is set on the speed sensor (don't forget the double washer).

Turned out great, clean cuts, no broken brackets, and a shortened tensioner sleeve.

Let me also say this. I had the intake, fuel injectors, alternator, turbo, AOS, crossover-pipe, cross-member, steering rack, control arms, and oil pan off - so I had lots of room. The sensors were functioning fine but I decided to replace these 30 year old sensors while I had the access. I don't think I could have done this without removing the topside stuff to have access.

Good luck to anyone who has to do this - I feel for you in advance if your sensors are nearly welded on and brittle like mine were.

Thanks to everyone who posted on what an ordeal and their solutions both on Rennlist and Pelican - extremely helpful and there is an amazing community around these unique cars.


Creating space with screwdrivers - central part not the mounting ears.


Bracket out. You can see where the blade touched the bracket. It will still mount and adjust fine.


Sensor is deep, head had broken off with slight upward twist with screwdriver. Brittle.


Sensor finally tapped out