951North

As for the nuts and bolts holding the pump on, crack the torque with a spanner or a ratchet then with your impact drill and a u joint attachment zip the bolts off the rest of the way. That goes for the hose clamps as well. Also to drain the rad with the least mess. After removing the drain bolt (which will break) insert an appropriate vinyl tube crack the air vent bolt at the top et voila!

curtisr

Thanks for sharing.

thomasmryan

Yep, best to keep a spare drain plug and vent barb/washer in the glove box.

My method is to raise the passenger side and slightly open the drain overnight. Lindsey racing sells a drain petcock similar to your setup.

951North

By the bye, here’s the abomination I used to hand tighten the 17mm bolt holding the starter heat shield yo the torque tube.

17mm (3/8”) socket to a flex shaft to a 3/8 drive extension to a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter to a 1/2” drive extension. Once the bolt was tightened I could get a 1/2” socket and breaker on (without the flex shaft obviously using ujoint wobbles) to torque that bugger down. SOB. Hardest bolt of the whole job.

Most of you know that have done this that a 17mm 1/2 socket won’t fit properly due to torque tube interface with the socket causing the bolt to potentially cross thread into the bell housing?...