Amateur mistake please help TPS HELP PLEASE
02-19-2019, 11:23 AM
#16
Drifting
There was a Porsche service bulletin regarding the DME relay: it suggests the female receptacle slots for the relay may get pushed in from repeated relay removal / replacement. I don't know why you have smoke and smell from the fuse box, but the first thing I'd do is check if those slots are in fact properly in place.
Do you get the smoke + smell when using the jumper?
The voltage gauge normally shows 12-13 volts; sounds normal to me. If it drops *below* 12, you might have an issue
Do you get the smoke + smell when using the jumper?
The voltage gauge normally shows 12-13 volts; sounds normal to me. If it drops *below* 12, you might have an issue
02-19-2019, 12:03 PM
#17
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There was a Porsche service bulletin regarding the DME relay: it suggests the female receptacle slots for the relay may get pushed in from repeated relay removal / replacement. I don't know why you have smoke and smell from the fuse box, but the first thing I'd do is check if those slots are in fact properly in place.
Do you get the smoke + smell when using the jumper?
The voltage gauge normally shows 12-13 volts; sounds normal to me. If it drops *below* 12, you might have an issue
Do you get the smoke + smell when using the jumper?
The voltage gauge normally shows 12-13 volts; sounds normal to me. If it drops *below* 12, you might have an issue
the issue I am having with low voltage is the lights in the instrument cluster are very dim even after pulling the dimmer switch all the way up
02-19-2019, 01:18 PM
#18
Drifting
haha the dash lighting has nothing to do with voltage issues: it's worn out "reflector" surfaces beneath the little light bulbs in there. To fix, you have to take the cluster out; some good write-ups online. It's pretty hard to get really bright again. I'm living with a fairly dull lighting but I'm used to it now--so much so that my wife's car is just too glaring at night!
FYI the DME relay is two relays in one. In any case, I find it strange that it didn't run with the jumper but runs with the new relay (?)
FYI the DME relay is two relays in one. In any case, I find it strange that it didn't run with the jumper but runs with the new relay (?)
02-19-2019, 04:11 PM
#19
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haha the dash lighting has nothing to do with voltage issues: it's worn out "reflector" surfaces beneath the little light bulbs in there. To fix, you have to take the cluster out; some good write-ups online. It's pretty hard to get really bright again. I'm living with a fairly dull lighting but I'm used to it now--so much so that my wife's car is just too glaring at night!
FYI the DME relay is two relays in one. In any case, I find it strange that it didn't run with the jumper but runs with the new relay (?)
FYI the DME relay is two relays in one. In any case, I find it strange that it didn't run with the jumper but runs with the new relay (?)
02-20-2019, 09:34 AM
#20
Drifting
I'm afraid diagnosing a stalling issue with so little info is beyond me. Maybe someone can start asking the right questions. You should figure out the coolant temp gauge issue first; there might be a connection (though the sensor for the dash gauge is different from the actual coolant temp sensor in front of it)
02-20-2019, 11:21 AM
#21
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I figured out the temp issue the only issue I have now is the stalling, the issue I am having with it is no matter how high I raise the RPM and release the clutch the car will stall once the clutch pedal is nearly all the way up. I don’t know what other details to add because that’s what it is doing I am confused because it started happening right after I changed the TPS, but it doesn’t seem like it’s related.
02-20-2019, 12:20 PM
#22
Drifting
Is it a new TPS? You can test it with a voltmeter (see Clarks's).. but.. it's more likely the connector or wiring; sounds like after you channged the TPS, it's failing to send the correct throttle position to the DME resulting in an improper fuel + timing instruction and serious loss of power.
Either that or your parking brake is fully engaged
Either that or your parking brake is fully engaged
02-20-2019, 01:34 PM
#23
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What else did you take apart? Why did you replace the TPS in the first place? Does it stall if you pull the connector off the TPS? Did you ever figure out what the escaping air sound was? That could be a vacuum leak, which can make your car stall.
02-20-2019, 01:49 PM
#24
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Is it a new TPS? You can test it with a voltmeter (see Clarks's).. but.. it's more likely the connector or wiring; sounds like after you channged the TPS, it's failing to send the correct throttle position to the DME resulting in an improper fuel + timing instruction and serious loss of power.
Either that or your parking brake is fully engaged
Either that or your parking brake is fully engaged
Part 2: I nearly spit my coffee out over that. Too funny.
02-20-2019, 03:31 PM
#25
Drifting
Part 1: The N/A just has an idle contact and full throttle contact, with no variable resistor (pot) like the turbo. Also, the turbo doesn't really use the TPS pot to meter fuel and timing. The signal from the TPS pot goes to the KLR only. The KLR then sends the DME a "full load" signal (on/off) when the throttle is open past a certain percentage, and the DME then switches to its full throttle maps/mode. Google Alpha-N engine management to read about TPS-based engine management if curious why its rarely used...
Part 2: I nearly spit my coffee out over that. Too funny.
Part 2: I nearly spit my coffee out over that. Too funny.
Part 2: you never know...... lol
I also thought vacuum leak but I'm surprised it wouldn't show in idle if it was that big?
02-20-2019, 04:35 PM
#26
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The day I did this job I took apart the shifter lever to inspect the bushing and then moved it into the garage to change the TPS that's it put everything back the way it was. I put the old TPS back on to see if it was the TPS and its doing the same thing.