Turbo brake issues
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Wedging the brake pedal down for a while helps, makes the bubbles really small and easy to dislodge. You can use scrap wood between the seat frame and the brake pedal. Wedge the pedal down, wait 30 min or so, bleed one corner (or I suppose one inner) then lift the pedal, wedge it down again, wait, repeat on the outer, and continue around. I am not sure if waiting helps, on bikes I always let them sit a while with the brake pressure on as I had been instructed.
You want the pressure up way higher than the Motive can safely apply to get the bubbles mashed down small and a strong jet of fluid to come out under high pressure, hopefully carrying the bubble out or to somewhere where it can get flushed out more easily.
You want the pressure up way higher than the Motive can safely apply to get the bubbles mashed down small and a strong jet of fluid to come out under high pressure, hopefully carrying the bubble out or to somewhere where it can get flushed out more easily.
#17
Rennlist Member
Wedging the brake pedal down for a while helps, makes the bubbles really small and easy to dislodge. You can use scrap wood between the seat frame and the brake pedal. Wedge the pedal down, wait 30 min or so, bleed one corner (or I suppose one inner) then lift the pedal, wedge it down again, wait, repeat on the outer, and continue around. I am not sure if waiting helps, on bikes I always let them sit a while with the brake pressure on as I had been instructed.
You want the pressure up way higher than the Motive can safely apply to get the bubbles mashed down small and a strong jet of fluid to come out under high pressure, hopefully carrying the bubble out or to somewhere where it can get flushed out more easily.
You want the pressure up way higher than the Motive can safely apply to get the bubbles mashed down small and a strong jet of fluid to come out under high pressure, hopefully carrying the bubble out or to somewhere where it can get flushed out more easily.
One warning with the Motive Bleeder, if you've owned it for a few years do yourself a favor and replace the plastic tubing.
Brake fluid degrades the plastic and it will eventually fail or split creating quite the mess.
#18
Rennlist Member
I'm going to print your procedure and hang it on the wall of my shop! .
#19
Rennlist Member
#21
Rennlist Member
#22
Rennlist Member
I often call it "a religious experience".
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
I Sort of had the same problem with My Turbo-S … I used to have to STAND on the pedal, and that is not a comfortable feeling at Watkins Glen, and It really will mess with any heel-toe Downshifting.. Anyhow, I ended up getting a Caliper rebuild Kit, I did all 4 calipers.... 16 pistons.. Took my time and was very detailed in the cleaning all new o-rings, got 30 years of junk and varnish out of the calipers. Put it all back together... Took it for a rip on the street and was a TOTALLY different car at the track.. It was amazing the difference the rebuild made... they work awesome now.
Look on YouTube, Van has a great Video on how to rebuild/clean them...I got my rebuild kit from Racers Edge. I took my time and it was about an 8 hour job. FYI You Don't need the scraper rings.. just the seals..
Look on YouTube, Van has a great Video on how to rebuild/clean them...I got my rebuild kit from Racers Edge. I took my time and it was about an 8 hour job. FYI You Don't need the scraper rings.. just the seals..
#24
Rennlist Member
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
I was referring to ATE 200 (supposedly higher temp capability) vs some generic DOT 4.
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
I was using 15 psi and starting with the OUTSIDE of the caliper first. Is that a problem?
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
I wasn't able to find your post about the blue dye. would you mind sending me the info?
#28
Rennlist Member
Guess I was wrong. Sorry,
#29
Rennlist Member
The plastic tubing cracks from years of exposure to brake fluid not necessarily from psi exceeding 10.
I bleed the inside bleeder first to limit pushing dirty brake fluid through the caliper.
But doubt it matters, as long as they're both flowing clean, air free fluid.
#30
Rennlist Member
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...er-blue-97675/
It's a video, the dye comes from McMaster Carr. You will have to put up with the video blogger expressing his justifiably irritated attitude. I was particularly enamored of "F**** the NTHSA". It defies logic and common sense we actually pay for and put up with this unsanity.
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 01-08-2019 at 09:02 PM.