Bought an 86 Turbo with just over 700 miles
#76
Rennlist Member
Excuse me if I missed it, but it just occurred to me that I didn't read that you tried to manually apply vacuum to the line. Mine was originally acting just like yours, I was able to pull the line off the valve and verify it WAS getting vacuum on the line, so I pulled the other end and sucked and sucked and nothing happened. When I replaced it I found the rubber diaphragm inside had rotted away with age, so it was just a open circuit so to say. I don't think anyone is still running on the stocker much anymore, they have just all rotted and cracked. This is all about age. So if yours was never done.... it's likely it's no longer able to hold vacuum.
You could rig up a way to manually keep it closed for now. That might help some with the heat....
You could rig up a way to manually keep it closed for now. That might help some with the heat....
#77
It's a combination of things that make this image:
1) The paint is premium 1980s Porsche orange peel and I did bring it to a shop for detailing and they did a great job.
2) I use a Leica M10 with a Leica Summilux 50mm lens. I don't think it gets better than that.
3) I use a B+W circular polarizer on the lens that allows me to cancel certain reflections and allow others.
4) The light Sunday morning was pretty good.
Before I got serious about taking pictures of my cars, about a year ago, I studied what the pros do which lead me to the above camera/lens choice. The rest is just practice.
#78
Rennlist Member
Try physically tapping on the servo itself. I have had this get stuck and do exactly what you are describing and the opposite. I ended up taking mine apart and cleaning the contact which worked for a bit. I then replaced it and all has been fine for several years now.
If it won't move, I would start there. This is not a super common issue, but does happen.
If it won't move, I would start there. This is not a super common issue, but does happen.
#79
Drifting
Dan:
It's a combination of things that make this image:
1) The paint is premium 1980s Porsche orange peel and I did bring it to a shop for detailing and they did a great job.
2) I use a Leica M10 with a Leica Summilux 50mm lens. I don't think it gets better than that.
3) I use a B+W circular polarizer on the lens that allows me to cancel certain reflections and allow others.
4) The light Sunday morning was pretty good.
Before I got serious about taking pictures of my cars, about a year ago, I studied what the pros do which lead me to the above camera/lens choice. The rest is just practice.
It's a combination of things that make this image:
1) The paint is premium 1980s Porsche orange peel and I did bring it to a shop for detailing and they did a great job.
2) I use a Leica M10 with a Leica Summilux 50mm lens. I don't think it gets better than that.
3) I use a B+W circular polarizer on the lens that allows me to cancel certain reflections and allow others.
4) The light Sunday morning was pretty good.
Before I got serious about taking pictures of my cars, about a year ago, I studied what the pros do which lead me to the above camera/lens choice. The rest is just practice.
#80
Try physically tapping on the servo itself. I have had this get stuck and do exactly what you are describing and the opposite. I ended up taking mine apart and cleaning the contact which worked for a bit. I then replaced it and all has been fine for several years now.
If it won't move, I would start there. This is not a super common issue, but does happen.
If it won't move, I would start there. This is not a super common issue, but does happen.
#82
Man those gauges look nice. Quickly looked over your pics but but didn't get what you said the color was (black?). My Copenhagen Blue looks black in some light so was curious. Regardless, amazing find. Enjoy!
#83
Drifting
I see it *is* normal that idle rpm indicates 100rpm off (spec is 840rpm) and the vacuum indicated by the boost gauge at idle is also a welcome sight. I always wonder what these gauges indicated on a brand new car running at operating temperature
#84
Your oil pressure gauge shows just under 3bar--I'm assuming it's fully warm? What a relief! I'm used to seeing so many pegged at 4-5 bar that I've always wondered if my bearings were on the way out; I got the same showing as your fresh engine
I see it *is* normal that idle rpm indicates 100rpm off (spec is 840rpm) and the vacuum indicated by the boost gauge at idle is also a welcome sight. I always wonder what these gauges indicated on a brand new car running at operating temperature
I see it *is* normal that idle rpm indicates 100rpm off (spec is 840rpm) and the vacuum indicated by the boost gauge at idle is also a welcome sight. I always wonder what these gauges indicated on a brand new car running at operating temperature
#85
Drifting
What grade oil are you running?
160K later & pretty similar except for the slightly "off-red" pointers, faded background, foggy plastic, ....
EDIT: pic taken some time ago (mileage)
160K later & pretty similar except for the slightly "off-red" pointers, faded background, foggy plastic, ....
EDIT: pic taken some time ago (mileage)
#86
New oil was put in by the shop that prepared the car for sale for the owner a few hundred miles ago. Will check the paperwork tomorrow. I was planning to see if the Porsche Classic oil was compatible. I use it on my 87 air-cooled.
Also doing the transaxle fluid quite soon and was planning to use Swepco.
Any advice much appreciated.
#87
Instructor
@Archer911 - congratulations on your find. Some suggestions in keeping your car looking young as the miles grow (as my 86 944 n/a purchased new at 25 miles now has 291,XXX miles):
>Wrap the nose/hood front area with a clear bra (to prevent road rash). Road rash stands out on black paint vs lighter colors.
>Did you get maintenance records from the previous owner? There were a safety recall in the early 90's on the fuel hose in the engine compartment. Was your car updated with this recall?
>Were your rubber coolant lines replaced ? 30+ years on any rubber is questionable for reliability.
>To prevent your light color carpeting from staining due to dirt, etc around the driver and passenger areas, you may want to consider applying a carpet stain protector or covering with a temporary plastic (used with new furniture ....remove it when you show the car).
>The sun will be your # 1 enemy for degrading the interior carpet/color as well as any exterior rubber (bumpers, trim pcs). If you need to park this outside for hours at a time, cover it with a good quality car cover.
>Wrap the nose/hood front area with a clear bra (to prevent road rash). Road rash stands out on black paint vs lighter colors.
>Did you get maintenance records from the previous owner? There were a safety recall in the early 90's on the fuel hose in the engine compartment. Was your car updated with this recall?
>Were your rubber coolant lines replaced ? 30+ years on any rubber is questionable for reliability.
>To prevent your light color carpeting from staining due to dirt, etc around the driver and passenger areas, you may want to consider applying a carpet stain protector or covering with a temporary plastic (used with new furniture ....remove it when you show the car).
>The sun will be your # 1 enemy for degrading the interior carpet/color as well as any exterior rubber (bumpers, trim pcs). If you need to park this outside for hours at a time, cover it with a good quality car cover.
#88
Drifting
As long as our gauges are accurate...
New oil was put in by the shop that prepared the car for sale for the owner a few hundred miles ago. Will check the paperwork tomorrow. I was planning to see if the Porsche Classic oil was compatible. I use it on my 87 air-cooled.
Also doing the transaxle fluid quite soon and was planning to use Swepco.
Any advice much appreciated.
New oil was put in by the shop that prepared the car for sale for the owner a few hundred miles ago. Will check the paperwork tomorrow. I was planning to see if the Porsche Classic oil was compatible. I use it on my 87 air-cooled.
Also doing the transaxle fluid quite soon and was planning to use Swepco.
Any advice much appreciated.
#89
Drifting
@Archer911 - congratulations on your find. Some suggestions in keeping your car looking young as the miles grow (as my 86 944 n/a purchased new at 25 miles now has 291,XXX miles):
#90
Former Vendor
As long as our gauges are accurate...
New oil was put in by the shop that prepared the car for sale for the owner a few hundred miles ago. Will check the paperwork tomorrow. I was planning to see if the Porsche Classic oil was compatible. I use it on my 87 air-cooled.
Also doing the transaxle fluid quite soon and was planning to use Swepco.
Any advice much appreciated.
New oil was put in by the shop that prepared the car for sale for the owner a few hundred miles ago. Will check the paperwork tomorrow. I was planning to see if the Porsche Classic oil was compatible. I use it on my 87 air-cooled.
Also doing the transaxle fluid quite soon and was planning to use Swepco.
Any advice much appreciated.
You may want to avoid the Porsche Classic Oil. Very expensive and nothing very special about it in terms of formulation:
Pretty conservative on the ZDDP side and little to no friction modifiers to slip things up a bit (molybdenum). As the Dan below alluded to, a 10W60 is a very high viscosity and unless you're seeing extreme oil temps, there really is no reason to run that in a 944- it can actually be damaging to the longevity of the engine. More info can be found here on the my recommendation for the 944 both on the engine oil and gear oil. This is the Motul thread, Dan was referring to:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...n-motul-2.html
Thanks for the shout out on the link! Hope you'll switch over to the bright side soon -Nick