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I've started doing the torsion bars on my 1986 944 N/A via the hole in the fender technique, and have gotten the old ones out and was going to install the new ones. However the new one on the left side doesn't slide in, and feels like its hung up on something. Is there anything like a dividing wall in the torsion carrier that could have come out of place to block the torsion bar from going in? What about the spring plate not aligning with the carrier causing the torsion bar to sag and not slide into the carrier splines? Also, I'm using this part #: C12-6569-28 bars from www2.cip1.com. They're beetle bars, but people all over this forum have used them with no issues.
Are you saying that the bar is stopping substantially short, say more than 3" from seating? That would be weird. I cannot imagine anything inside there that would hold up a bar from going in. Shine a light in there. Try a slightly small wood dowel.
If you are saying you can't get the splines to engage, you are aware that the bar needs to be rotated until you find the position that lines up the splines at both ends. And you need to release the shock and probably the rear sway bar from the swing plate, in order to allow the spring plate to rotate to the position you will require to get a correct ride height.
I'm impressed you say you didn't have any trouble getting the old one out. That is usually where I have met with frustration.
I just got this Endoscope for my birthday. I wish I was close enough to loan it to you, but postage would be more than the purchase price... would have been perfect to see what was in there.
Oh I did have trouble getting the old ones out don't worry haha. I do have it going the right way, it slides in until the outer bar splines touch the spring plate splines, and then it barely contacts the spring plate splines, but won't go any farther than that. I'd say about 1/16 of spline contact. I do have the shock absorbers disconnected but not the sway bar. I was able to get the old ones out with it connected and I have a good bit of rotation on the control arms with it in place, but maybe it's applying just enough upward pressure for it to not line up. I've never wanted an endoscope more than I do now, looks like a great tool to have. I'm located in Raleigh which I think is pretty near to you. I have a rod that I used to knock the one side's bar out from the back that I'll run the other way to make sure it's clear. I'll also try disconnecting the sway bar. Thank you all for the replies!
What you describe (going in a 1/16" and jamming) is very typical. I have had to rotate my bar multiple times to find the "sweet spot". It also helps to move/rotate the spring plate a little bit.
You said you bought VW bars. If you continue to be stymied, a useful experiment would be to take your bar and turn it around and just confirm that the outer end will engage the splines. (The bar will be sticking through the hole you say you cut in the body). Next, but more hassle, would be to take off the spring plate, which removes the outer splined housing and see if you can get the bar to engage in the interior end of the housing, at the transaxle.
I have a tab welded on the end of my bar, which is a lifesaver for the next time I need to remove them. I do live in SW Wake Cty. If this goes on much longer, contact me at 919 604 2188 and we'll see about an intervention. I do have a $20 scope, hooks up to a PC, that I can bring. But I suspect you will get it to go. It just takes a lot of trial and error.
Here are a couple of links that might be helpful. In the first article, about 1/2 way down, is a picture of a bar with the tab.
i'll play with it some more after I get off work, but is there a way to remove the spring plate with the suspension assembly still attached to the chassis? I haven't been able to find a write up that made it clear whether or not it could be done with the assembly attached to the chassis.
No, looking at the pictures in my previous article on the subject, it does not appear that you can get the spring plate off with the suspension in the car
I assume that you are going with new VW torsion bars because either you think something is wrong with the ones you have or you are going for a larger diameter bar. Either way, you should carefully compare the diameter and number of splines of the bars you took off versus the new ones.
Someone jump in here but I believe that in addition to the diameter at the splines being different on the 2 ends, I think the number of splines is different also at the two ends. It may only be different by 1 spline. This allows you to get a "vernier effect" so you can clock your spring plate precisely. That is why you have to keep rotating the torsion bar until you find the combination that works for the "droop" on the spring plate that you want.
Thanks for the replies. I am changing the bars to fix the sagging wagon effect and to install a larger diameter. So I was able to re-install the old bars i pulled out, which means there is a problem with the new bars. I put them side by side and the splines on the new ones are longer than the old. Is this because they're VW or possibly because I was sent the wrong part? They are from C1p and other 944 owners have used them no problem. The red ones are the new and black the old.
only the end to end length matters, 25-9/16" or so isn't it?
It's 26 9/16. Both are the same length. But the old ones due the shorter splines, spline into the carrier before the spring plate. The new ones kinda hit both of them at the same time.
08-08-2018, 08:07 AM
Porsche 944 torsion bar won't slide into carrier
