Dick Klynsmith

Hi Ppl, I am also starting a rebuild /Resurrection.
All my previous experience had basic Electronics, so this one is a 1983 2.5 Euro 944.
If you dont mind I am going to pick Brains all along this Journey.
At this point, I have checked Fluids, am about to remove plugs and turn things over by hand to make sure nothing is sticking.
I put a battery in, but will not turn the key further than position one with dash lights only until I have investigated further.
The First problem is that the only light that comes on is the Oil light, no Ignition light, no Bonging, and there is no Tach Bouncing anywhere....
I will be pulling relays one by one and testing them as well as the DME and ECU.. gently..
Is there a main relay or something that would create no Ignition lights at all?
Thanks for the help.
D

951and944S

I'm not much on the early cars.

You sound electronically inclined.

Do you have the factory manual with schematic..?

I'd first remove battery terminals at the starter and inspect them and clean. Main ground wire from battery.

T

Dick Klynsmith

Tiger03447

The Haynes is a good place to start. You need to get a parts manual and a workshop manual. Both are available online. The Parts manual is called PET..the Workshop manual is referred to on here as a WSM. PET stands for Porsche Ersatz Teile , or Porsche replacement parts...Check out "Clark's Garage..a wealth of information...Pelican parts in CA might have the CD's for the WSM and the PET. The WSM will give you step-by-step instructions better than the Haynes. The PET will give you exploded views and part #'s...use the P/N's when ordering to get the correct part..it helps a bunch..You can also check out some of my threads and posts here. I have an '83 that I dragged out of a field..and 5 years later it still isn't together yet, but it should be going back together this summer and fall. (hopefully). Hope this helps some..Tiger 03447.

EJnMN

Here is online PET that someone recently posted: https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pd...85_KATALOG.pdf

Squid924

A few more details on the car would be great!
- Has it been sitting for a long time? If so, How long?
- Did it run when it was parked?
- When was the timing belt job last completed?
- A lot of electrical issues can be caused by bad or corroded grounds...why do you have so much focus on the electrical side?
- If sitting for a while flush the fuel and add some fresh stuff prior to starting, be prepared for some loud clattering from your cam tower as the hydraulic lifters need to build pressure and may be stuck.
- And of course we need to see a photo of the car!

Best of luck with the project

Daxk

Gentlemen,
Thank you.
I am in Ireland, the car has stood for a long time and as it was a deceased estate I have no history at this point, I am trying to investigate further.
Having gone through this excercise before with two BMW E9's and the current drive a 1968 triumph Spitfire I have had a sharp learning Curve.
My First actions have been to pump all the Fuel out of the Petrol tank, checked Fluids and the Oil looks remarkably clean as does the Brake Fluid.
Plugs out and the Block turns over by hand at this point.
I am assuming Electrics as a starting point as they are the easiest to check in terms of continuity and potential failures...
Thank you for the Advice, I will clean up all the Grounds I can find and thanks for the link to the PET, EJnMN...
Thank you too Tiger and Squid... will post some pics soon.

16again2009

The Pelican Parts Forum has the schematics for your car. The Haynes manual is pretty worthless.

Squid924

Everyone is going to chime in about the timing belt & balance shaft belt. If not swapped prior to starting you take the chance of snapping the belt and bending valves. Rule of thumb tends to be 3yrs/36,000 miles on the belts with a waterpump every other change (the water pump is driven off of the timing belt). If you are a gambling man, you could inspect the belts and roll the dice to see what happens....

I personally would put my time and effort in to the belts and waterpump, then start the car and figure out what electronics are giving you problems. This is not a Triumph with the wonderful Lucas electronics, but it is a 35 year old car and if you search you will find threads about reflowing solder joints in the ECU and the gauges, etc.

jderimig

^+1. Get fresh belts and tensioned right so you can start turning the motor. Then the fun starts. I resuscitated an early 944 very successfully after a 10 year hibernation. Electrics wise all it needed were new speed and reference sensors and had to get the fuel injectors rebuilt because they were plugged. Started right up. Early 82-84 DME's were the cream of the crop and very robust. The later ones were built relatively poorly.

thomasmryan

Daxk

Thanks..will check the belts..again..I dont know any history on the car ..and have no idea what the previius now deceased owner did or did not do.
am now trying to track down the owner prior to him..I assume the car stood for a long time due to the ally blemishes on things.. also the fact that when he learned the sometime had changed to very soon..he went out and bought a running 944 to fulfill his bucket list.
tells me he did not think he was going to get this one going soon.
there appears to be an added over ride switch which sounds as if its powering the fuel pump..
will trace the wires back on the weekend.
thanks again for the advice.

elgy

You can't trust just checking the timing and balance belts as they can look fine but be old enough to fail. Many recommend belt changes after 3 years, independent of mileage (my car has gone longer than that a couple of times without problems, but that is just my experience).
You may find some useful information in the thread on my '87 924S (which has much in common with the early 944s).
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-survivor.html
Pictures please...

Daxk

So at last we havs some time

Daxk

Got together with the executor family member who had some documentation..Mileage looks genuine from the previous MOT tests..car apparently was driven two years ago.
so today plugs out..a penetrating oil and 10ml of diesel down the bores..tank pumped dry..more petrol and pumped dry again..fuel lines clear..engine turned over by hand.. and then cranked all looking good so far..12 volts at the coil..but no spark..at the plug leads..
all fuses out cleaned and tested..
speed and ref sensor out..tested according to Clarkes Garage wonderful resource..the pins on both that should read 1 ohm..do..zero on the other pins..
question: both sensores have the same part number..is that incorrect?
one of the sensors appears to havs been graunched by the flywheel?? Are they different lengths?

from there back under the dash.. this is a 1984 2.5..so the layout looks less complicated than shown on clarks..one of the relays is missing a cover and is toast? I will post a pic hereafter..its the far left next to the DME.?
any idea what relay should be in there?
then..on the pic you will see a brown relay..that is actually a Renault relay thaf has had its pins shortened??
i m trying to find a schematic to find out whst should go in there..and what it does..
ANY ideas??