Tom R.

I got your point. There are a lot of Porsches in the Rocky Mountain Region with tow hooks and tire trailers. Look at the size of that hitch. It is just the right size for a tire trailer. And 8 tires and a tool box weighs more than a washing machine. We are tempted to put one on the S so we don't have to stuff tires and tools in the car, but that will have to wait until my co owner builds his extra garage in his non HOA neighborhood.

AnthonyGS

MAGK944

AnthonyGS

Wisconsin Joe

Ok, since you've popped up on here:

What's up with the oil pressure? Is it normally that low?

AnthonyGS

1) The PO kept the impressive class I hitch for another 944. I'm sure you all have fantasies of starting your own towing company with a 944 and class I hitch, but you'd be mistaken. If you think anything you can move with a class I hitch is capable of destroying an auto, you should probably spend more time tracking your own weight.

2) The PO also kept the way wrong offset Cayenne 18s.

3) I didn't just "pop up" here; I've been around.

4) On the oil pressure. I don't drive this car often. I've driven it about 25 miles total in 6 months, and I haven't conducted a statistical analysis on oil pressure vs. viscosity vs. operating temperature, etc. The car runs fine, and I wouldn't expect the oil pressure at idle to be much above 20-30 psi (2 bar) when the engine is up to temperature. You'll find if you look at oil pressure specs, they aren't ever reported for idle. My 996 oil pressure isn't much higher after it's warmed up either, but it's pegged high on cold start. And do you clowns (yes, you guys are mostly trollish clowns on your best of days), really think the oil pressure gauge and sender are perfectly accurate? If you want to know what the oil pressure really is in any car, you need to get an aftermarket calibrated gauge and use it in place of the sending unit. Of course, many of you probably already know this.

Why was the temperature on the high end of the scale when the photo was taken? I had been sitting in a line for 20 minutes and inside a car wash waiting for the wash cycle to finish. That's the temperature after 20 plus minutes with no airflow over the radiator from the car moving. It didn't overheat, so it's probably a okay. The temperature gauge also is 1) not calibrated and 2) doesn't even have a scale on it. Thanks for trolling though.


Have a nice day.

Perry 951

Easy there Punchy... nobody is picking or trolling on you. You invited the dialogue by the way you wrote the ad.

I don't know you or your background, but I'll venture a guess that I have more experience with the 944 series than you do. Since I'm the one who pointed out the temperature gauge I'll state clearly that it is in the upper end of normal operation. Sitting still is irrelevant if all the systems are working as designed (fans running on high speed, cooling system filled with proper quantities of glycol and water, radiator is not scaled or damaged, water pump and thermostat are operating properly, no internal engine issues are present, and finally, the gauge and sender are reporting the correct values). Most 944/951/968 with the late gauges typically read on the lower end of the normal operating scale even in hot temperatures with fully functioning AC. To me, the higher than average reading would indicate that there is an issue somewhere.

By the way, warm idle specification is 2.5-3 BAR, or 36-44 PSI using API SF/CD 10W30 oil. It's in the factory manuals.

jderimig

Wow, does anyone run 10W30? I only get 3 bar idle on hot oil with 20W-50 and that's with brand new rod bearings. Was the oil pressure pulsing? I couldn't tell from the picture and I looked for a long time.

tifosiman

LOL, now that's funny!

Wisconsin Joe

Wow. Defensive much?

"Popped up" as in you appeared suddenly. I haven't seen you post before.

I asked a simple question. I wasn't aware that would make me a "clown" or a "troll".

The answer "Because it was extra hot from sitting and idling" actually makes sense. I suspected as much.
The sensors and gauges aren't calibrated, but they do a pretty good job of showing trends.

The 'trend' of a 200k plus mile motor having somewhat lower oil pressure would be 'not unexpected'.

GLWS. It actually looks like a pretty decent car.

AnthonyGS

Decent is a good word to describe it. It is straight and rust free other than drivetrain surface rust. The interior is in good shape with minor issues. It is definitely high miles and has associated issues. It does run, start and drive without a fuss though. It's priced accordingly, I feel. I would love to change the timing belt, but don't really want to spend $300 on tools for a one time job. If I were keeping it and maintaining the 2.5L, I wouldn't feel so bad about that. The parts are reasonable and it isn't a terribly difficult job. If anyone in the DFW area has tools to loan or rent, that would be ideal. I can provide beer (after) food after and during and some entertainment.

I honestly had a much more mundane ad, but I got really sick of the "I only have XXX" inquiries and the inquires that were; $1500 or $2000 cash with no questions, explanation etc. Those types of inquiries are now gone.

AnthonyGS

That warm idle pressure has to have an RPM number to be meaningful. Oil pressure will change a lot over a few hundred rpm. And yes, you do have far more experience than I do with the un-calibrated gauges of the Porsche 944. I've got more time than you do calibrating gauges using actual calibrated reference instruments on nuclear powered submarines, neither of which really mean a whole lot as pertains to this car.

If the needle hits red and I see steam coming out from under the hood or a flashing temperature light, I will shut things off and start worrying then. Until then, this car is for sale as is. It's got 217k miles, it's not going to run and perform like it did 31 years ago when new. Honestly, no matter how much is spent on it, it will likely never be that good again. And that's what makes the car hobby fun. You can make it different, you can make it better, you can make it worse, but you will never duplicate OEM exactly.

vandal968

If the fans are running properly (ie: both relay and fans working), I'd put money on the temp issue being 100% cured with a proper bleeding. My '89 944 was pretty much always on the lower white tick mark as was my dad's '86 and my 968 was always in the middle or above since 1992 and 2003 respectively. This summer I had a fan fail on the 968 which boiled-off some coolant and forced me to really go through things. A proper unsafe bleeding (ie: loosening bleeder by a crack with car warmed and system pressurized and running NOT the safe Porsche unpressurized method) got out every last bubble and now the 25 year old 968 with original radiator and 160k on the clock is always at the lower tick mark just like the two 944's always were. This includes many 110F+ Phoenix days sitting idling in the sun with the AC on full blast waiting to pick up my kids from school. I bet 5 minutes of bleeding and that 944 with the snarky ad and snarky owner runs as ice-cold as mine, and I also bet that it picks up 0.5 bar on the idle oil pressure.

But I'm an optimist

cheers,
c

vandal968

You'd be surprised, my dad's 86 with 279,000 when he sold it pretty much ran the same as when it was new. Same for my 89 with 179,000 when I sold it. Also, my 968 is at 160,000 and still goes like hell. They're great cars and yours looks like a decent one. If you were closer I'd have that beer with you and give it some serious thought.

cheers,
c

Perry 951

Early car warm curb idle is 900 +/- 50 RPM. Late cars are 840 +/- 40 RPM.