bureau13

So the Haynes manual, which is all I have right now, seems abbreviated...like they've given you about a third of the actual steps and you are supposed to fill in the blank. Or, maybe it's because I am recalling the 928 timing belt job which was, err, quite involved.

In any case, I always get stuck on the stupid easy stuff: In this case, the AC compressor belt. I can't get it to loosen up at all. Haynes says loosen the "banjo" side of the tensioner, then screw the nut towards the compressor. Looking at it, that seems like it would work. Then I remembered there would be other bolts that need to be loosened, the one where the compressor will need to swivel about its mounting point, and I think the one towards the bottom of the tensioner bracket...that seems there would be some twisting there as well as the compressor is drawn inward. So all that is loose, and I am cranking the nut on the tensioner banjo bolt down towards the compressor, but the compressor does not appear to be moving, and the belt is definitely not getting loose.

I'm sure I've forgotten something obvious....anyone know what it is?

Thanks...

thomasmryan

the compressors pivot is under the alt. if its is not loosened first and tightened last, it puts undue strain on the mounting ears.

bureau13

I didn't loosen it first, since that was one of the steps Haynes didn't bother with and I was just blindly following them, but it's definitely loose now. Not sure why the thing isn't moving...in fact the long bolts there and the one in the bottom of the tensioner bracket look like they're either bent, or have compressed the rubber bushing to one side so that they appear bent (I don't think they really are bent, as the bolts still turn normally) so maybe the compressor is just frozen in place and I need to whack it with a hammer or something...

bureau13

**&^%%ing Haynes. Basically, said to screw the nut down towards the compressor to remove belt, which is exactly backwards. (*sigh*)

Everything is loose now, but I still haven't got the belt off. I hate belts. I imagine this will be even worse going the other way...I'd just cut it and worry about it later buI think that's the one belt I still don't have...

bureau13

I had to walk it off with a screwdriver and a long wrench on the crank bolt, but it's off. Now of course, we have the infamous timing belt cover. All three bolts are out (almost missed the one on the underside near the cam sprocket) and it's very loose. I have the charge tube, the oil line that crosses over the front of the cover both disconnected, and the big fuel gizmo thing unbolted (doesn't move very far) and I'm still caught on something. I suspect this is just a matter of working at it until you unlock the puzzle. How important is it that I put this thing back on...

(edit: I know, some of you don't have timing belt covers...I'm just a little paranoid about it...)

bureau13

One other thing...there is a black metal bracket that braces the alternator from the back of the upper mounting ear to the block...mine is broken. I can't find the thing in PET or searching through Pelican, anyone know where I can get one?

bureau13

FINALLY got that damn timing belt cover off. It required unbolting the fuel distributor and pulling it out of it's lower boot and the vacuum line and flipping it up a bit, pulling of the oil line and coolant hose, and then I had to do my penance of x number of hours and x number of curse words, at which time voila, the cover is off. The belt looked fine, was tracking in the center of the sprocket, etc. It's fairly grimy down there, so I'll try to see if there is any particular area leaking oil. I'm highly suspicious of the oil line that comes up in front of the cam gear and connects to the head (I assume this is feeding oil to the turbo). The metal part is fine, but both of the soft sections look oil-soaked and terrible. Are those available? I think I may have read something about at least one of them being NLA. If that's true, what are you guys doing when they need to be replaced?

I'm seriously considering NOT replacing the water pump, even though I have a replacement. Unlike in the 928, it's not timing belt-driven, so I have no concerns about it seizing and causing a timing belt failure. Without the cover in the way, getting to it will not be the hell that it was this time. I see no evidence of bearing play or leaks. Yes, I'm aware that this means I'll probably have huge leaks within a week of buttoning it back up

I broke a bolt off in the block on the 928...had to drill it out and put in a Timesert...PITA. Pretty sure I can't squeeze my impact driver in there to loosen these things up, and I REALLY do not want to find myself drilling out more bolts right now. So I may let it ride...

bureau13

Surprise surprise, I've hit a snag I have a new tensioner pulley, which looks visually just like the old one. However the bolt from the old one (I didn't get any new bolts, and it would need to be the same size anyway, to thread into the block) doesn't fit through the hole. It slides easily into the old tensioner. Anyone know if this could be the wrong part, or....

Please see my comments above about the oil line that runs from the turbo areas up the front of the cam gear cover to the side of the head. The elbow on top, and the woven straight hose on the bottom don't look very good to me. What are folks using to replace those?

f4stunter

I just joined the forums, as I am in the process of picking up an '81 924 turbo that has set for many years. The first thing I will do is replace the timing belt, so I have been reading up on it. I seen a similar question on the 924board. All the new tensioner's I have seen that have all the hardware, have a Stud, washer and nut instead of a bolt. Advance auto parts has a listing just for the stud for $2.34, It says for use with late type tensioners. I'm guessing the stud is milled down a bit smaller to fit the new tensioners.

bureau13

Ah hah! That makes perfect sense...I can't think of another way this thing could fit on my block. And I can afford the $2.34

bureau13

I see some kits out there come with all the hardware. In the installation details for the roller there are part numbers for stud, washer and nut. They had the stud, as you pointed out, which I've ordered. They don't seem to have the other hardware....I assume I can just go to a normal hardware store and get that stuff....do you know if it's a flat washer? There is a split washer on the bolt that came out of the old one, but what pictures I've seen look more like a flat washer.

Finally...anyone know torque ratings for stud to block, and nut to stud? The only numbers I have assume a bolt like with the older tensioner...

f4stunter

The washer looks to be u-shaped probably some type of locking washer but also wider than a split washer to add surface pressure from the nut. I would probably just go down to an atwoods, tractor supply, etc to their miscellaneous nuts and bolts section and pick those up. As for the tension, I have seen both 33lbs and 15-17 lbs quoted but don't know for sure. I personally will probably use some medium blue Loctite on both ends seeing as I have read several threads now of the stock ones coming loose and backing out into the plastic cover and melting it.

bureau13

Reason number 9,872 to not put the cover back on. And counting...

bureau13

ARRGGHHH. So I'm reusing that tensioner. *(*&^ it. But do you guys have some special trick that you use to string the belt? As involved as the 928 job was, actually stringing the belt was fairly easy. I can't seem to get it seated properly on the crank gear...like there is something in the way on the underside of it, which I can't see or reach...although I don't think there is. Looking down, I can get it in the teeth on the right side, but the left side just won't, it's too far forward, which also means I can't get it over the cam gear because it's too tight. And this is with no tensioner at the moment, which Haynes says to put on after the belt, but they may be lying about that. Then I search for threads about this very thing, and find one with some guy doing his timing belt in a parking lot at night. Says it took him about an hour. Murderous thoughts lol...

bureau13

OK, so either you guys have magical jointless arms that can reach down around the pulleys and slide the timing belt over the crank gear, or you have no belly pan on the car and did it from the bottom. I'm the kind of idiot who will spend hours trying to avoid removing something that's in the way that takes five minutes to remove, if I don't think I have to remove it. Nothing I've read said you need to, but I did...belt slide on in about 30 seconds after that lol. I'm in the process of buttoning it up now, so hopefully tomorrow I'll be driving it again. I had no problems with the cam gear moving, so hopefully timing is still good.

One thing I noticed...there is a black metal support or bracket of some sort that attaches to the top mounting screw (the long one, at the back of the alternator) and then to the block. Mine is broken. Not sure if it broke when I took it off or not. I can't find that in PET, I'm not sure what Porsche calls it, etc. Anyone know? It doesn't really seem critical, then again Porsche wasn't really in the business of adding unnecessary stuff to this car, so...