New Problem...No power to injectors 944S
12-19-2017, 02:40 PM
#31
12-19-2017, 03:05 PM
#32
@Dwizle that is what I was beginning to suspect. I had been smelling gas in the cabin for a while if it sat so I also may have broken hoses to the charcoal canister...will check.
I'll be putting some more time into it this weekend.
Chris
I'll be putting some more time into it this weekend.
Chris
12-19-2017, 05:41 PM
#33
Crazy that they would put that on the same circuit as the injectors. also check out what the other 4 connections on that circuit are too might be one of them... Good Luck...
12-21-2017, 11:05 AM
#34
My next step since I tried to trace all the injector electronics is I am going to set up a spray test with the injectors spraying into four jars and cranking.
12-21-2017, 11:45 AM
#35
If you don't feel like removing the whole rail, I was able to easiliy look down the spark plug hole with a flashlight while turning over the vehicle and see if the injectors were firing. it'll basically spray you in the face if they're working. Only plug in one at a time so you don't flood the engine.
12-23-2017, 11:26 AM
#36
Possible culprits, ignition control module, coil (fairly new), cap, rotor. Cap tests good and is pretty new. Rotor is pretty new too and tests okay.
I mentioned earlier I took video of #1 spark working and I've checked with my old school timing light and I'm getting hits through the wires.
This is a head scratcher.
12-23-2017, 12:20 PM
#37
Kind of sounds not getting enough fuel to sustain a idle. Any air leaks in the intake track? Coolant sensor good? BTW not a fan of using starting fluid on a gasoline engine. Besides that it can cause engine damage, it can mask a ignition problem. Use gasoline instead.
12-23-2017, 12:29 PM
#38
It’s getting plenty of fuel based on the amount I got just with a few cranks. This isn’t a vacuum issue unfortunately as I’m familiar with those. This is a complete no start issue.
12-23-2017, 01:24 PM
#39
Go back to the basics.
Check the compression with a compression gauge.
Check to see that you have a good 3/8" of spark jump at the end of the plug wires.
Throw a ounce of fresh gas down the intake. It takes more gas then you think.
Like Tom said earlier, it's a short list.
Check the compression with a compression gauge.
Check to see that you have a good 3/8" of spark jump at the end of the plug wires.
Throw a ounce of fresh gas down the intake. It takes more gas then you think.
Like Tom said earlier, it's a short list.
12-23-2017, 02:02 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Have you checked the AFM/MAF signal and confirmed no big vacuum leaks? The DME will supply fuel based mostly on the start-up maps when you crank the motor, and once the engine starts it then uses the AFM/MAF signal as the primary means of metering the fuel. As such, if the car starts up every time and seems to run smoothly for a second before it dies, there's a strong chance that your air-fuel ratio is way off -- most likely either because you have a large air leak or because the DME is not getting a good signal from the AFM/MAF. On the other hand, if the motor spits, sputters and stumbles as you crank, then that suggests something wrong with the intake, compression, power, exhaust cycle -- e.g., no compression, bad valve timing, etc. Maybe post a video of the motor cranking/dying?
Since the head was recently off, you shouldn't assume good compression or timing. The odds favor some issue related to the last work you did, assuming it was running fine before. Also, don't assume the plugs are not fouled just because they look clean -- you can't always see when a plug is fouled, especially if it's the result of flooding the motor. Pull a plug, ground it, and watch to see that a strong spark is actually jumping the gap in the plugs you are running. How's the fuel? Was it sitting for years and/or otherwise compromised with water, etc.?
Since the head was recently off, you shouldn't assume good compression or timing. The odds favor some issue related to the last work you did, assuming it was running fine before. Also, don't assume the plugs are not fouled just because they look clean -- you can't always see when a plug is fouled, especially if it's the result of flooding the motor. Pull a plug, ground it, and watch to see that a strong spark is actually jumping the gap in the plugs you are running. How's the fuel? Was it sitting for years and/or otherwise compromised with water, etc.?
12-26-2017, 12:22 PM
#41
At last I grabbed a video of what it is doing.
I took the intake off today to at least check my connections for the IPS back to the DME and tested the Idle Air Control valve. Those were all good.
I took the intake off today to at least check my connections for the IPS back to the DME and tested the Idle Air Control valve. Those were all good.
12-26-2017, 02:24 PM
#43
Go back to the basics.
Check the compression with a compression gauge.
Check to see that you have a good 3/8" of spark jump at the end of the plug wires.
Throw a ounce of fresh gas down the intake. It takes more gas then you think.
Like Tom said earlier, it's a short list.
Check the compression with a compression gauge.
Check to see that you have a good 3/8" of spark jump at the end of the plug wires.
Throw a ounce of fresh gas down the intake. It takes more gas then you think.
Like Tom said earlier, it's a short list.
its own for a second before I shot the video.
I ran out of time so I will go back an check for a good spark.
12-26-2017, 02:32 PM
#44
12-26-2017, 03:06 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
That doesn't act like the dead AFM/MAF I mentioned. What is the fuel pressure when you are cranking. If you haven't tested with a gauge, I'd say that's the next test. I might also be inclined to have someone spray starter fluid under the air filter as you crank so see if it seems to fire.