Torque tube reinstallation
09-13-2017, 10:33 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Torque tube reinstallation
Does anyone have any tips for torque tube reinstallation?
I can't quite get it all the way forwards on to the dowel pins and into the clutch housing... the prop shaft is probably just short of engaging with the clutch splines, as far as I can tell as there's about 3-4 inches to go, and the prop shaft can still be easily rotated with fingers.
I'm sure this would be easier with two people, but unfortunately I'm doing it on my own
I can't quite get it all the way forwards on to the dowel pins and into the clutch housing... the prop shaft is probably just short of engaging with the clutch splines, as far as I can tell as there's about 3-4 inches to go, and the prop shaft can still be easily rotated with fingers.
I'm sure this would be easier with two people, but unfortunately I'm doing it on my own
Last edited by zogster; 09-13-2017 at 10:49 AM. Reason: typo going->doing
09-13-2017, 12:02 PM
#2
Do you have the engine supported from below? If not, it will tilt back a bit and make it difficult to get the driveshaft into clutch.
Use a block of wood on the oil pan and a floor back to tilt the engine back to level. Another thing to try since you're doing it by yourself is to jam a piece of 2x4 between the TT and rear suspension to hold the transmission side level.
Sometimes you have to use the bolts to draw the TT to the clutch cover. I had to do this for the last 1/2" the last time I had the TT out.
Use a block of wood on the oil pan and a floor back to tilt the engine back to level. Another thing to try since you're doing it by yourself is to jam a piece of 2x4 between the TT and rear suspension to hold the transmission side level.
Sometimes you have to use the bolts to draw the TT to the clutch cover. I had to do this for the last 1/2" the last time I had the TT out.
09-13-2017, 01:37 PM
#3
I did this recently by myself.
It should not need to be forced, if so, as said it is is misaligned.
Do you have all the cross brackets removed from the car so that you can tilt the TT down as far as you want?
You don't 'have' to remove them but they are really easy to and allow you really move it around to get it aligned.
I do remember having to lower the back of mine quite a bit to get it aligned, I then bolted it to engine, then pushed up and started installing the cross braces.
It should not need to be forced, if so, as said it is is misaligned.
Do you have all the cross brackets removed from the car so that you can tilt the TT down as far as you want?
You don't 'have' to remove them but they are really easy to and allow you really move it around to get it aligned.
I do remember having to lower the back of mine quite a bit to get it aligned, I then bolted it to engine, then pushed up and started installing the cross braces.
09-13-2017, 01:59 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
I have to build all my stuff on my own as well and I found TWO handy things.. The First is what is mentioned above.. Make Sure the Engine isn't Dropped in the back. When it is sort of in , like you describe, you can almost see if its not Aligned if you look at the machined mating surface of the Bell Housing to the Square on the TT... (The Top Should have a Bit bigger gap because you are going to raise the TT rear portion when you wiggle it, at point it should be even top to bottom.. )
The SECOND and most important Is that the Clutch disk for whatever reason is Not Perfectly Centered....SO... Engage the TT as far as it can go, Then go to the Back to try and turn the TT. Make Sure that it does NOT turn. This means you "somewhat" have the splines engaged. At this point you NEED and assistant to press the clutch pedal in the car while you put pressure on the TT and wiggle it in, Its very fiddlley . Having to do this as often, I made a tool that I put in place of the clutch slave, a simple plate that bolts to where the slave goes It has a nut welded on in the center and I have a threaded rod that I just turn in by hand to depress the clutch fork and presto! the TT slides right in.. (My Wife wasn't to keen on being in the car when the lift was all the way up.. )
The SECOND and most important Is that the Clutch disk for whatever reason is Not Perfectly Centered....SO... Engage the TT as far as it can go, Then go to the Back to try and turn the TT. Make Sure that it does NOT turn. This means you "somewhat" have the splines engaged. At this point you NEED and assistant to press the clutch pedal in the car while you put pressure on the TT and wiggle it in, Its very fiddlley . Having to do this as often, I made a tool that I put in place of the clutch slave, a simple plate that bolts to where the slave goes It has a nut welded on in the center and I have a threaded rod that I just turn in by hand to depress the clutch fork and presto! the TT slides right in.. (My Wife wasn't to keen on being in the car when the lift was all the way up.. )
09-13-2017, 02:26 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks fellas - got it in eventually!
I think it was mostly just not lined up quite well enough... was supporting the front of the engine before, but with the clutch back on I think the engine tipped back. So I moved the jack to the back of the engine and pushed it back up. Also used some long bolts to thread through the TT flange and into the clutch cover just to help keep things in line when I was waggling from the back.
I think it was mostly just not lined up quite well enough... was supporting the front of the engine before, but with the clutch back on I think the engine tipped back. So I moved the jack to the back of the engine and pushed it back up. Also used some long bolts to thread through the TT flange and into the clutch cover just to help keep things in line when I was waggling from the back.
