How to remove side molding?
08-11-2017, 11:22 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Looking good!
The key is to use the plastic scrapers; they won't cut into the paint and it speeds up the removal. I realize you don't have any Harbor Freight stores in your country, but they can be ordered on Amazon, and some other body & paint stores, and some home improvement stores carry them. Also, Harbor Freight ships internationally, but I don't think its cost effective to Australia.
https://www.harborfreight.com/custom...-delivery.html
Was your car repainted at some point in time? The shop may have used something nasty to re-attach the side moldings.
The key is to use the plastic scrapers; they won't cut into the paint and it speeds up the removal. I realize you don't have any Harbor Freight stores in your country, but they can be ordered on Amazon, and some other body & paint stores, and some home improvement stores carry them. Also, Harbor Freight ships internationally, but I don't think its cost effective to Australia.
https://www.harborfreight.com/custom...-delivery.html
Was your car repainted at some point in time? The shop may have used something nasty to re-attach the side moldings.
08-13-2017, 06:52 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
08-13-2017, 11:43 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
The first attempt, I did spray WD40 on the plastic, but it won't dissolve the plastic since it's pretty durable. The WD40 serves more as a lubricant when you first start removing the plastic, and then it will dissolve the adhesive as soon as the top plastic is scraped off.
08-20-2017, 01:12 AM
#19
Here's a simple and easy way to strip this stuff off paint. It works for both the side molding adhesive and the plastic chip protection panels over the wheel arches and in front of the rear wheel wells.
Buy some WD40 (I like the gallon size, it's not that expensive and you can use it for lots of other things), and plastic chisels/scrapers.
Here's Harbor Freight's scraper example, but you can find on Amazon and in home stores.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piec...set-95832.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/wd-40-...ant-62232.html
Spray the area you will work on with a light misting of WD40 and let it sit for a few minutes, or up to 1/2 hour if you can restrain yourself. You can also brush it on, but spray is faster.
Grab one of the two medium sized scrappers and angle it parallel to the paint but with the edge touching the body. Use short, slow, forceful strokes to scrape the adhesive off on the side molding, or the plastic surface of the stone chip protectors. Experiment, you will find the right motion.
Re-apply WD40 as needed, it will act as a lubricant on the paint and a solvent on the adhesive. The WD40 will have no effect on your paint and it washes off with soap and water.
The adhesive should break down and become gummy, so some old rags to clean the scrapper are helpful. You may want to put some cardboard or newspaper down if you are on a driveway for easier cleanup.
For the plastic stone chip protectors, once the plastic is scraped off, spray more WD40 over the adhesive and it will begin to dissolve and come off with the scraper. The longer you can leave the WD40 to soak into the adhesive, the easier it comes off, up to a point, typically 20-30 minutes. Spray one area and scrape in another.
You can use a soft rag or old microfiber towel with some WD40 on it to clean up any stubborn patches of adhesive. Wash with soap, polish the paint, and then wax. Perfection!
I'm NOT responsible for anything you do!
No warranty of any kind expressed or implied.
Use at your own risk.
Enjoy!
Buy some WD40 (I like the gallon size, it's not that expensive and you can use it for lots of other things), and plastic chisels/scrapers.
Here's Harbor Freight's scraper example, but you can find on Amazon and in home stores.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piec...set-95832.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/wd-40-...ant-62232.html
Spray the area you will work on with a light misting of WD40 and let it sit for a few minutes, or up to 1/2 hour if you can restrain yourself. You can also brush it on, but spray is faster.
Grab one of the two medium sized scrappers and angle it parallel to the paint but with the edge touching the body. Use short, slow, forceful strokes to scrape the adhesive off on the side molding, or the plastic surface of the stone chip protectors. Experiment, you will find the right motion.
Re-apply WD40 as needed, it will act as a lubricant on the paint and a solvent on the adhesive. The WD40 will have no effect on your paint and it washes off with soap and water.
The adhesive should break down and become gummy, so some old rags to clean the scrapper are helpful. You may want to put some cardboard or newspaper down if you are on a driveway for easier cleanup.
For the plastic stone chip protectors, once the plastic is scraped off, spray more WD40 over the adhesive and it will begin to dissolve and come off with the scraper. The longer you can leave the WD40 to soak into the adhesive, the easier it comes off, up to a point, typically 20-30 minutes. Spray one area and scrape in another.
You can use a soft rag or old microfiber towel with some WD40 on it to clean up any stubborn patches of adhesive. Wash with soap, polish the paint, and then wax. Perfection!
I'm NOT responsible for anything you do!
No warranty of any kind expressed or implied.
Use at your own risk.
Enjoy!
I will say that the visual impact of removing the moulding was greater than I anticipated. Now your eye goes follows the "belt line" instead of the middle of the car. There's something sort of '90's about the moulding, and removing it brings the car back to the right decade.
08-20-2017, 02:34 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
You're right, I think the "very thin, fine but rough-feeling transparent film" is a transfer tape. It has adhesive on both sides and is used in applying the adhesive to the trim when it is manufactured. Chances are if you can get it to come off you will find adhesive under it.
I would spray a little WD40 in an area and use the plastic scraper to see if you get it to lift or scrape the tape off. Don't use a razor blade, you will only damage the paint. The plastic scraper will not scratch the paint and the WD40 acts as a lubricant to make the scraper work efficiently.
I would spray a little WD40 in an area and use the plastic scraper to see if you get it to lift or scrape the tape off. Don't use a razor blade, you will only damage the paint. The plastic scraper will not scratch the paint and the WD40 acts as a lubricant to make the scraper work efficiently.
08-21-2017, 12:37 AM
#22
You're right, I think the "very thin, fine but rough-feeling transparent film" is a transfer tape. It has adhesive on both sides and is used in applying the adhesive to the trim when it is manufactured. Chances are if you can get it to come off you will find adhesive under it.
I would spray a little WD40 in an area and use the plastic scraper to see if you get it to lift or scrape the tape off. Don't use a razor blade, you will only damage the paint. The plastic scraper will not scratch the paint and the WD40 acts as a lubricant to make the scraper work efficiently.
I would spray a little WD40 in an area and use the plastic scraper to see if you get it to lift or scrape the tape off. Don't use a razor blade, you will only damage the paint. The plastic scraper will not scratch the paint and the WD40 acts as a lubricant to make the scraper work efficiently.
1. Get more than one plastic scraper; they dull after a while and will become ineffective. I suggest at least a half dozen.
2. Before you scrape, try to pull up a corner of the adhesive with your finger; if you can get a hold of a thick piece of it and pull slowly, you can peel all of it off - transfer tape and all - in one go. Sometimes this isn't possible, as the spatula will break up the tape when you separate it from the moulding, but if you get lucky and find the tape relatively intact, try to peel it off with your fingers - it will save a lot of time.
09-25-2017, 09:03 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
I had a go the other day at removing the adhesive with 3M Automotive Adhesive Remover.
It worked like a charm. I gave a minimal 'soaking' to a six inch strip (at a time) all the while holding a cloth underneath to catch the run-off. Moving along with dry spot on the cloth rolled the old stuff off perfectly.
You wouldn't know that there had been a rub strip on the car before this.
It worked like a charm. I gave a minimal 'soaking' to a six inch strip (at a time) all the while holding a cloth underneath to catch the run-off. Moving along with dry spot on the cloth rolled the old stuff off perfectly.
You wouldn't know that there had been a rub strip on the car before this.