How do you gauge a 914 value?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How do you gauge a 914 value?
I've got a 914-6 conversion race car right now. I'm currently looking for a 914-4 street car.
The prices are all over the place...
I've seen prices from 5k to 35k for a 4 cylinder.
Can anyone give me some guidance on how to buy one properly?
I'm looking at 73-76 models for the side shift transmissions.
Any help would be appreciated! I don't want to overpay or purchase a car that will be almost impossible to resell down the road.
The prices are all over the place...
I've seen prices from 5k to 35k for a 4 cylinder.
Can anyone give me some guidance on how to buy one properly?
I'm looking at 73-76 models for the side shift transmissions.
Any help would be appreciated! I don't want to overpay or purchase a car that will be almost impossible to resell down the road.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For instance, this one caught my eye:
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/cl...tionId=1259853
They're asking around $18k or so.
Very little paperwork on the car and it's a 1.8 liter.
Are they being reasonable on the price?
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/cl...tionId=1259853
They're asking around $18k or so.
Very little paperwork on the car and it's a 1.8 liter.
Are they being reasonable on the price?
#3
Official Wednesday AM Red Bull F1 test driver
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
1.8 is least desireable but can be rectified by engine mods, etc. Undercarriage looks decent in pix, if mileage legit and body tight the price may not be far off considering what I've seen lately. Hopefully this car wasn't driven much or any in Nebraska winters!!
You'd want someone who knows 914's to look it over carefully, and if really interested, loosening the rockers for a good look underneath, but if you already have a 914 you probably know that...
You'd want someone who knows 914's to look it over carefully, and if really interested, loosening the rockers for a good look underneath, but if you already have a 914 you probably know that...
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately my car and street cars are two completely different animals. So i'm starting completely from scratch on this one...
Am I better off just sticking with a 2 liter car for ease of resale?
Am I better off just sticking with a 2 liter car for ease of resale?
#5
Race Director
Andrew, check out my 914 thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/914-914-...ent-914-a.html
Here's some quick price guidance:
1. Under 5K: generally pretty darn rough.
2. 10K: Very drivable, looks good, condition good, cosmetic issues like seals, some paint issues, but overall very acceptable car.
3. 15K: Starting to get into the turf of very, very nice cars.
4. Over 20K: outstanding cars.
Of course, there are always exceptions, but that should give you at least a general idea of what to expect, in my opinion.
For best resale value, '73 2.0 or '74 2.0 with the appearance group. But, you will have few cars to choose from when buying. I started my search looking for that, but ended up buying a '74 1.8. Am very pleased with it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/914-914-...ent-914-a.html
Here's some quick price guidance:
1. Under 5K: generally pretty darn rough.
2. 10K: Very drivable, looks good, condition good, cosmetic issues like seals, some paint issues, but overall very acceptable car.
3. 15K: Starting to get into the turf of very, very nice cars.
4. Over 20K: outstanding cars.
Of course, there are always exceptions, but that should give you at least a general idea of what to expect, in my opinion.
For best resale value, '73 2.0 or '74 2.0 with the appearance group. But, you will have few cars to choose from when buying. I started my search looking for that, but ended up buying a '74 1.8. Am very pleased with it.
#7
Race Director
My experience when recently buying a 914 is that all mid-range clean ones sell pretty quick if priced right. The junkers don't seem to sell at all and the expensive super clean ones take longer.
'73/'74 2.0 for the quickest sale. I was competing against three people at once when I bought mine, a '74 1.8, very clean car.
'73/'74 2.0 for the quickest sale. I was competing against three people at once when I bought mine, a '74 1.8, very clean car.
Trending Topics
#8
Pro
What do you think about a '72 1.7 car for $11k?
Is a 1.7 car too weak?
Would you pay $25k for a '73 non matching numbers but completely restore car?
Thanks!
Rodrigo
Is a 1.7 car too weak?
Would you pay $25k for a '73 non matching numbers but completely restore car?
Thanks!
Rodrigo
#9
Race Director
Not enough details to answer your questions regarding price, Bola. But, I would go for '73/'74 over '72. The changes are relatively minor, but enough for me. (ex: I hate the earlier seat belts).
You really won't notice a huge difference between the 1.7 and 2.0. But, more power is always good.
Take a look at these torque and acceleration curves.... not a huge difference at all.
.
You really won't notice a huge difference between the 1.7 and 2.0. But, more power is always good.
Take a look at these torque and acceleration curves.... not a huge difference at all.
.
#11
Burning Brakes
I am about to take possession of a 914 full restoration car. The car was done right and since I have inspected it during restoration, I can assure you that it is now rust free. Any rust was either properly repaired or the panel replaced. Car was taken down to primer and then properly prepped and painted. For my car, I opted for the steel GT fender flares. However, you can save close to $2k by opting for stock fenders.
The builder has a number of donor cars from which to choose so you can get just about any year car.
I chose a 1976 donor car, and then had him do the retro conversion to fully chromed bumpers. The cost of my car came out to about $20,000 which included $1500 for the chrome bumper conversion and approximately $2000 for the GT metal flares.
My total cost for the car is right at $20,000 which seems high, but that includes a fully rebuilt 2.1 motor (1mm increase in cylinder size) and tranny (stock rebuild), and full replacement of all suspension parts and new rubber everywhere. Cost also included a new front windshield.
PM me if you would like contact info for the builder.
The builder has a number of donor cars from which to choose so you can get just about any year car.
I chose a 1976 donor car, and then had him do the retro conversion to fully chromed bumpers. The cost of my car came out to about $20,000 which included $1500 for the chrome bumper conversion and approximately $2000 for the GT metal flares.
My total cost for the car is right at $20,000 which seems high, but that includes a fully rebuilt 2.1 motor (1mm increase in cylinder size) and tranny (stock rebuild), and full replacement of all suspension parts and new rubber everywhere. Cost also included a new front windshield.
PM me if you would like contact info for the builder.
#12
Official Wednesday AM Red Bull F1 test driver
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Need pix of that car- good idea to backdate the bumpers!!
(BTW, both my parents and my sister went to North Central- spent some time in Naperville way back in time...)
(BTW, both my parents and my sister went to North Central- spent some time in Naperville way back in time...)
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Not enough details to answer your questions regarding price, Bola. But, I would go for '73/'74 over '72. The changes are relatively minor, but enough for me. (ex: I hate the earlier seat belts).
You really won't notice a huge difference between the 1.7 and 2.0. But, more power is always good.
Take a look at these torque and acceleration curves.... not a huge difference at all.
.
You really won't notice a huge difference between the 1.7 and 2.0. But, more power is always good.
Take a look at these torque and acceleration curves.... not a huge difference at all.
.
BTW, they are almost impossible to find in unmolested form.