Well, Crap...Glad I Didn't Sell It!
#31
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Darn, I really don't like not being able to delete...make sure to see post #30.
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 06-01-2012 at 08:53 PM.
#32
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1. Heads shipped off to EMS in Inglewood, CA.
2. Bowlsby comes through, and supplies engine tin to body seals, and a new alternator wire harness, which I really needed! THANKS, JEFF!
3. Ordered a Bosch rebuilt alternator - one of those "while I'm in there" things.
4. Ordered an engine gasket kit, and a fan pulley/crank seal.
5. Sheet metal/engine tin off to the powder coat place tomorrow.
Progress. Pictures as things begin to happen!
2. Bowlsby comes through, and supplies engine tin to body seals, and a new alternator wire harness, which I really needed! THANKS, JEFF!
3. Ordered a Bosch rebuilt alternator - one of those "while I'm in there" things.
4. Ordered an engine gasket kit, and a fan pulley/crank seal.
5. Sheet metal/engine tin off to the powder coat place tomorrow.
Progress. Pictures as things begin to happen!
#34
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Thanks for posting Pete, if you keep improving this thing it will soon be one of those $20K+ 914's that we see for sale from time to time. You are going to set the 1.8 market my friend.
#35
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Good news from the machine shop, no cracks in the heads! The intake valve on the broken spring was bent, so head removal is justified.
#37
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As the years passed I had forgotten that 914 heads can be fragile. Apparently my heads are from a 1.7, which are possibly the strongest of the bunch. The machine shop called, they had intake valves and springs, but had to go on a hunt to find a set of exhaust valves. It seems that even hard parts are getting a bit hard to find.
The estimate for head repair is about $550, including resurface, all new guides, 5 exhaust studs, and the repair of one intake runner stud. I think that's a very fair price, and will probably have the heads back in two weeks. I'm in no hurry; our forecast for this Sunday is 104F, which means 110F in the garage. I think that I'll look for something else to do on Father's Day!
My advice for 914 owners, if you have a future repair scheduled, even a couple years out, start collecting your parts now. I've already stockpiled a few things, and will slowly add to them as time passes.
The estimate for head repair is about $550, including resurface, all new guides, 5 exhaust studs, and the repair of one intake runner stud. I think that's a very fair price, and will probably have the heads back in two weeks. I'm in no hurry; our forecast for this Sunday is 104F, which means 110F in the garage. I think that I'll look for something else to do on Father's Day!
My advice for 914 owners, if you have a future repair scheduled, even a couple years out, start collecting your parts now. I've already stockpiled a few things, and will slowly add to them as time passes.
#38
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Well, one head IS cracked. The machine shop bead blasted the heads, and put them aside. Later, when they picked one up, a crack between valve seats was clearly visible. I guess the bead blasting made the cracks invisible, and then moisture wicked up into the cracks. Good news? They have a replacement set of heads that they will sell to me for next to nothing. Dodged that bullet - whew!
Currently looking for alternator cover and rubber boot to connect the cover to the fan shroud.
EDIT: Found a cover & rubber connector.
Currently looking for alternator cover and rubber boot to connect the cover to the fan shroud.
EDIT: Found a cover & rubber connector.
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 06-19-2012 at 01:01 PM.
#39
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Just a thought. Air flow flappers in fan shroud not in good condition. They are there to help with engine warm-up, but I live in a very mild winter climate with hot summers. Eliminate them, while the engine is apart, to avoid unintentional overheating, or try to fix the system? I'm leaning, and so is my machine shop, toward leaving out the flaps and thermostat, and just being gentle for the first few minutes of driving.
#40
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I've left them off my engines for a long time and just take it easy. Some folks will tell you that it is a surefire way to blow motors up, but IMHO their wrong.
#41
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Leaving out the flaps? If they are permanently open what's the difference? Once I get the 2.0 done it will spend most of its time in AZ so warming up won't be an issue. I figured I'd just leave them in, in the open position and adjust the wire to the "thermostat" accordingly. That whole system kind of looks like a bad joke anyway...
#42
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Leaving out the flaps? If they are permanently open what's the difference? Once I get the 2.0 done it will spend most of its time in AZ so warming up won't be an issue. I figured I'd just leave them in, in the open position and adjust the wire to the "thermostat" accordingly. That whole system kind of looks like a bad joke anyway...
#45
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I don't think so, air flow in there should be sufficient to keep everything nice and cool. The below '73 2.0 was my car, and I eliminated the flaps from that engine. It lived in SoCal for about five years, then moved to New York, where it's still plugging along.