Matt Romanowski

It will stay together until you let Jay borrow it. Then he beats on it until he breaks the crank in two.

Jay Gratton

Come on Matty, a guy breaks your crank in two one time and you won't let a guy live it down.

I think the key part of this story was your car was getting toasted out of the toll booth by a Civic SI when it went. Not my fault!

Peter Zimmermann

Well, I drained the oil...all clean! I removed the right valve cover, heard a rattle, and found a valve keeper in it. And a whole lot of movement in an intake valve rocker. More after I get the engine out and the heads off!

Peter Zimmermann

Well, the engine is out, separated from the trans, prepped for the engine stand, and is ready for dis-assembly. If we get another sub-80sF morning, I should have time tomorrow to get the heads off. We shall see.

My "while I'm in there" list is already growing:
Engine shroud seals - replace.
Throw out bearing and spacer blocks - replace.
Main shaft seal - replace.
Bell housing - clean.
Alternator - replace.

Matt Romanowski

Check the alternator brackets for cracks. I've had 2 crack and cause me to throw belts. Took a while to figure out why it was throwing the belts.

Matt Romanowski

Oh, and you can make fun of me, but I've had great luck with Pep Boys or Advanced starters and alternators. Cheap and last as well as the Bosch stuff.

Peter Zimmermann

I found an AL75X Bosch rebuild for...so cheap I'd rather not mention the price. But, that said, thanks for the tip on the alternator bracket! One more thing to look closely at... My goal, at this point, is to make sure that I don't have to take this darn thing apart again for at least 8 years!

Matt Romanowski

I could probably go on for a long time of stuff to check. If you end up splitting the case, check the bores for the oil bypass pistons and the pistons themselves. Over time they don't all close real well and can cause low oil pressure.

Also, if you do a total rebuild, think about changing out the freeze plugs to threaded plugs. Not too hard, but worth it.

There are a couple of different improved oil pumps available. They might be worth looking into.

Also, I've heard there are some problems with main bearings. It might be worth looking into them sooner than later to make sure you can get something good.

Peter Zimmermann

Matt; I'm thinking that after I get the heads shipped off to EMS, I'll measure the flywheel end play. If that's OK, and there's no rust on the cylinder walls, I'll probably just put the finished heads back on and call it a day. Remember, I'm dealing with a 1.8 liter VW transporter engine (code "AP") rather than the code "EC" 1.8 engine that belongs in the car. I also have an advantage; I put super high detergent oil in the engine when I first got the car running. During all the times that I drove the car, including testing, and after the engine finally ran well, that oil stayed clean. So, I guess that the bottom end is good, but I will check end play before making a final decision.

Matt Romanowski

I wouldn't be too concerned about the end play. The tolerance is fairly large if I remember right and they don't wear the thrust surfaces too bad.

There is a long time Porsche guy up here (over 50 years in PCA) who says that if you do a top end only on an old car like this that it will end up killing a rod bearing becuase of the extra load from a fresh top end. No clue how right he is, but something to throw out there.

Peter Zimmermann

Progress, but it's getting hot outside so I'm done for the day.

Broken intake valve spring. Small kiss on the #4 piston - no metal displacement. Sheet metal/tin isn't too bad, cleaning rather than powder coating might be enough.

Matt Romanowski

That's not too bad.

Peter Zimmermann

Not bad at all! I spoke to the machine shop that I use and they said that they can find everything that I need. One push rod is damaged, a couple adjuster screws are pitted, and they have good used keepers/retainers should they be needed. O.E. valve springs are apparently NLA, but they have found a good replacement, and valves are not a problem.

skl

Lot easier than a 911 isn't it??? That all looks pretty familiar...

Peter Zimmermann

Your comment made me stop & think! I have done so much '89 and earlier 911 work, and so little 914 work, during my career that I started wondering about this. With a 911, the exhaust stays on until the engine's on the stand. Removing the exhaust, except for thermal reactor year cars or any Turbos, is actually about the same, but I take the muffler and heat exchangers off the 914 with the engine still in the car. I'll give this point to the 911.

Removing the induction system probably is a longer step, but I know what tool to pull out of the box for every fastener, with only a glance. Taking the heads off the 914 only involves intake runner and engine tin removal, and the injectors can remain installed. Once again, because of the 911's engine tin simplicity, and my own familiarity with the different induction systems, I'll give another point to the 911.

Here is where the job really swings into the 914 camp. Removal of the valve covers, rocker arms, push rods and push rod tubes takes much less time than removing the rockers/cam housings on a 911. 911 rockers are labor intensive because it's assumed that almost always the cams & rockers will be re-used, so a dedicated place to put all the parts needs to be created along with labeled places for intakes, exhausts & each cylinder number. All that's needed for the 914 is a piece of cardboard with 8 small, numbered holes through which to push the push rods to insure they go back in the same way. Also, 911 rocker assemblies should be cleaned before removal, to avoid scratching rocker shaft bores in the cam housings. Points to the 914.

All things considered, with a 911 the repair would be fun, with all steps understood and done many times. With a 914 I'll have to think during assembly. I'll have to turn the phone off!

Now where did I put that 15mm socket...?