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Old 02-21-2018, 06:26 PM
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Jacob Hallenbeck
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Hello everyone, so on my quest for budget Porsche's that recently hit a road block (in the form of the car i was buying getting scrapped instead) i have landed myself upon a set of 914's the main of which is a 1975, 2.0, 5 speed in Red it also appears to have an aftermarket wing of some sort on the rear. from what i can tell it is missing the door handles a headlight and then just misc cosmetic work also needs to be done. as for the engine of it well.... its the classic *it ran when i parked it but then i didn't feel like driving it for a long time so the carburetor needs to be rebuilt* or in other words, something else is also wrong most likely. included in the sale with also be a 1972 914, 2.0, 5 speed. there are no further detail on that except for *for parts* so im guessing a missing title (wont afect me being in GA where pre 86 cars can be registered without and then you can apply for one.) or mangled in some sort of way. the pictures attached are of the first car and are all there were. i asked for more but havent gotten the yet. That are asking 3k but im thinking i may try and talk them to 2k or atleast start my offer there. any tricks etc, a way to hear the engine start with bad carbs? (like starter fluid?) rust areas? (ive seen that the jack points battery tray area and rockers and the main points) leaks at top? (maybe at corners i got nothing on that) what is the metal disc on the fender? the cars are rather far from me so id like to go as knowledgable as possible when i go to look at it. i will probably take videos and lots of pics of the red one when i see it (the cars are in different cities) what would you guys offer?


Old 02-22-2018, 12:58 PM
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dr914
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That looks like it is probably a parts car. ANY 914 that is complete is worth 2500 for parts, just to give you an idea, but every 914 costs as much as a 356 or 911 to restore and unfortunately are not worth as much, so you must be very careful or you will get into an expensive project.

Just to give you an idea, we purchased a RUNNING 75 914 2.0 with fuel injection from a guy in Athens two months ago for 4000 and thought that we had a good deal. We so far have spent over 5000 on the car and the paint is not good, there is rust in the car, the interior is bad, and the one cylinder leaks at the head gasket!!!!!!
Old 02-22-2018, 01:15 PM
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Run Forrest, run!!! Agree with George- parts car at best...
Old 02-22-2018, 01:57 PM
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ehokana
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Just to give you an idea, I started with a rust-free '73 and did a full restoration on it. Even so, I have more money into the car than I will likely ever see out of it (something I knew going into the project). Not to be rude, but the car you posted looks to be in worse shape than my parts car did, and I just scrapped that one.

Either way, I hope it works out for you
Old 02-22-2018, 03:22 PM
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Jacob Hallenbeck
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so, to put it in perspective, I don't want to restore it, I want to drive it. I'm not looking to get it and make it perfect. that being said that Saturn in the background of my profile pic has about 12k into it and makes 600hp, so I'm not to worried about working on the car I need a long term project to just resto-mod and have fun with, I can do a lot of what I see wrong myself (paint, interior, and ill say some mechanical having not worked on air cooled before.) but all in all I'm just worried about rust, and wondering how I can hear the engine try and start to confirm the bad carb that they claim. I have a full lift and tons of tools etc to work on it too.

EDIT: I'm not trying to turn down everyones advice either it should be said, more I really want another car to work on now that my Saturn is almost done and I'm trying to leave the boxster stock. I also don't want to buy a nice example just to modify it and ruin a good example if that makes sense.
Old 02-23-2018, 10:13 AM
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cairo94507
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The original fuel injection is gone if it now has carburetors, if it has been sitting on negation for long, the floors will likely be rotted out, that "metal disk" on the front fender, at least the picture I can see, is the side marker light housing without the lens attached. Oh, in '72, the 2.0 engine was not available. It was a 1.7, unless someone has replaced that motor with a later 2.0. Check the engine serial number, if it is a GA number it is a 2.0- I believe. I would start at $1,500, but only after seeing the car in more pictures or finding a local member to go lay eyes on it. Good luck - Michael
Old 02-23-2018, 10:21 AM
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Jacob Hallenbeck
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Originally Posted by cairo94507
The original fuel injection is gone if it now has carburetors, if it has been sitting on negation for long, the floors will likely be rotted out, that "metal disk" on the front fender, at least the picture I can see, is the side marker light housing without the lens attached. Oh, in '72, the 2.0 engine was not available. It was a 1.7, unless someone has replaced that motor with a later 2.0. Check the engine serial number, if it is a GA number it is a 2.0- I believe. I would start at $1,500, but only after seeing the car in more pictures or finding a local member to go lay eyes on it. Good luck - Michael
Where is the engine code located? easiest way to get to it? I plan on looking at it tomorrow and will report back!
Old 02-23-2018, 08:32 PM
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ehokana
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Also remember to check the trunk floor- with that added reflector between the tail lights, it is almost certain that water has gotten in there and sat. I think the reflectors add 6 or 8 holes in the panel (can't remember since mine were filled in)
Old 02-23-2018, 08:38 PM
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Jacob Hallenbeck
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im going to check this car out tomorrow and see what all can be seen, as far as rust i plan on thoroughly checking front and rear compartments and rocker panel/structure, not entirely sure where the battery is but i plan on finding it to see that and the hell hole everyone speaks of i assume is close to that or in the front compartment?
Old 02-24-2018, 10:21 PM
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down below the battery and at the right rear of the floor pan, a good way to instantly tell is to try to jack the car up with the jack port and a the original crank jack
Old 02-25-2018, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dr914
down below the battery and at the right rear of the floor pan, a good way to instantly tell is to try to jack the car up with the jack port and a the original crank jack
so that was definitely rusted out, not sure how bad that is? im sure its fixable but the question is where does the water go after that?
so the inspection for rust went like this: Front Section all looked good.
floor pans were EH... they seemed to be starting to rot in some places possibly able to just patch the spots id have to get it up to really check. so for purchase sake we will say probably needs a replacement.
hell hole. yeah pretty good sized hole id estimate 3x4 maybe 5 inches and a secondary one a few inches above that about 1x1in. same spot on the other side had some damp dirt in it so its gonna be the same for assumption sake.
rocker panels were rusting through but the actual frame under it felt pretty solid, from what Ive seen ill assume it will need some work though.
rear pan corners one had surface rust the other had a small amount of water sitting on it. rear hatch also had one hinge that rusted and was broken.
as for the other details. id get 2 cars 75 and 72 both are 2.0 with Carb swaps.
1975 2.0: this is the one i got to see and look around, besides the rust it has been pretty stripped car was repainted from yellow to red and it has some sort of aftermarket spoiler on it that i do particularly like. the interior is iffy and mostly disassembled and inside thankfully. although no water seemed to be getting inside which was good. door opened and closed with a good thud and didn't droop any when opened panel gap seemed to be even everywhere but the front bottom where it got closer to the fender but no interference. electrical has been tampered a bit from what i can tell but nothing that looks beyond my ability to fix or redo correctly. this car has full drive train but carbs clogged up and he let it sit a few years after. Background of it was basically he bought it ~20 years ago and barely ever drove it (he says ~500 miles) and when the carbs gummed he never fixed it (i don't think he knew how and then didn't have the money for someone else to do it.) engine was sitting with a makeshift cover over it and i believe the carbs off, so that's probably garbage now. car does have title though
1972 2.0: has been sitting Approx the same amount of time car was purchased for parts and left to sit. has a supposedly well preserved engine and trans but i don't know as i didn't get to see this car. the doors from this car were removed and put inside but the chassis left outside so while i didn't get to see ti for rust that combined with him telling me it had rear quarter damage makes me think that's not gonna be something id want to fix but hey parts right?
all in all id say both are probably parts cars unless floor pans are easy to source? i can do rust repair myself and since the car needs paint all over and the engine will need to come out i feel i should be fine finding most all of it as ill proabably paint the whole chassis the same color (it was a MACCO quality job) guy says he bought it for $500 when he got it so im thinking ill offer him 1k to start and go at max to 1.5k depending on condition of other car (awaiting pics) fuel tank was also removed from the '75 and cleaned and left inside. the guy obviously wanted to keep it but didnt seem to be able to afford it and he knew he left it to long. odo said 86k and he doesnt think its rolled but also told me he cant speak for the previous owner. Hind site 20/20 i shoulda taken the roof off and seen if it flexed and how much. heres a awful pic i took of what i believe was the hell hole and battery area? correct me if im wrong. seems pretty rough this area of rust is kinda final decision area im not sure if what of that is structural and what isnt i know i can get in there and replace it but theres i dont know just how justifiable that is and where a price should be with that? Dr maybe you have a decent shell i could purchase and swap some parts into? if i go that route im probably only gonna offer 1k though. the more i look at that pic the more i know its proabably gonna be a run away decision but id like the more experienced advice first. (i know the surrounding also looks rough but none of the mechanical/rubbers etc worry me because i can replace them in the end. (my experience with rust in the past is patching and repairing aesthetic i had a guy who always did structural with me and plan on learning how to do it with this if i purchase one)
Old 02-25-2018, 04:54 PM
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dr914
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run away from this one or buy for a parts car!!!!!!!!! Come up and we will show you various stages of decay and what can be saved REASONABLE and what can not


On the other hand if you take on this car, we honor you for saving a piece of Porsche history
Old 02-25-2018, 05:00 PM
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And that picture shows very well why they call it the HELL hole... and I can assure you it is a LOT worse than it looks...
Old 02-25-2018, 07:57 PM
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Jacob Hallenbeck
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Originally Posted by dr914
run away from this one or buy for a parts car!!!!!!!!! Come up and we will show you various stages of decay and what can be saved REASONABLE and what can not


On the other hand if you take on this car, we honor you for saving a piece of Porsche history
where are you at? id be more than happy to come out and look!
Old 02-26-2018, 10:30 AM
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dr914
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914 world headquarters is just north of porsche north american headquarters in Marietta just off of I 75


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