voodoo51

I have done transmission rebuild but still have problems with shifting 1 and 2 gears. It is very hard to shift second gear when the car is hot. I have to push harder and more over it is difficult to locate the right path.
I am going to buy:
- Shift rod coupling (http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-...911+424+024+04)
- Fiction ring shifter (http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-...914+424+224+00)
- Ball socket (http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-...911+424+139+00)

When these parts get in we will do shifter linkage alignment procedure.

Should I try to do something more to solve shifting problems?

Thank you.

mel_t_vin

Sergey, if those wear items in your shifter assembly are OE, 30+/- years old, simply replacing them may solve your problem. By the way, I didn't see you list the bushing, 914.424.224.00, attached to the little bracket under the shifter plate/housing, that supports the forward end of the shift rod before it goes into the coupling that houses the ball socket, 911.424.139.00. Shouldn't cost very much.

A few questions. Has your builder rebuilt a 930 gearbox before? How confident are you/they that they did it correctly? If I recall correctly from another thread, you recently replaced your gear oil. What type/brand/viscosity did you use?

voodoo51

Allen, thank you.
The bushing # 914.424.224.00 is on my first message (position #2).
But if I missed any other item to change please let me know.

My builder did not rebuild 930 gearbox before. But they are specialized in gearbox rebuild and I don't have choice (classic 911s are very rare in Russia).
Yes, I replaced gear oil. Now it is mineral oil 80w-90. I could not order Swepco last time.

mel_t_vin

Oops...you're correct. My mistake.


Mineral oil...good. 80w-90...also good.

I bet your bushings have disintegrated. Let us know how the gears line up after replacing those parts and performing a linkage adjustment.

voodoo51

Allen, I've heard that I need to replace 2 more bushings (they are not in my list). But Porsche dealer doesn't help with part numbers of these bushings because I don't buy parts from this dealer.

Please check my list in case I missed some parts.

Thank you very much for your help!

mel_t_vin

Sergey, I've looked at a couple diagrams and don't see any other replaceable rubber/bushings.

The ball socket, friction ring, and shift rod coupler should take most, if not all, of the slack out of your shifter movement.

voodoo51

Thank you, Allen!

Mistergee

Apology if im hijacking but I may have a related problem also but the car will only go in neutral gear with the clutch depressed, when I release the clutch with the gearstick in neutral position it is still in gear, If I was to buy the same parts as above would this help or is my problem much worse?

mel_t_vin

Are you talking about the '77, in a state of partial dis-assembly, you posted in the photos thread?

How long has it been since that engine was last started? The friction disc is probably corroded to the flywheel.

Mistergee

So a stuck Friction disk gives the symptoms as described? As car is always running what other things can cause this?
I start her and was driving her everyday until this problem,
the motor is fine and never let me down, and there is nothing rusted anywhere that's for sure, I did just replace the clutch cable as the last one did strip the thread, (the thread did strip at the time of the problem , don't know how much of that causes/ relates to the symptom, it must be more than a misadjusted clutch

mel_t_vin

My apologies...I believe I misread/misunderstood your issue. I thought your issue was that the wheels were always connected to the engine/drivetrain.

I now see that is not the case. You're basically saying that you can disengage the clutch to shift gears, but when you release the clutch pedal when the shift lever is [and transmission should be] in neutral, the wheels are still connected to the engine/drivetrain. Is that correct?

If so, when did this start happening? After you changed the clutch cable?

I hope others more experienced with the cable-actuated, 4-sp, 930 box offer their advice, but, I suspect something is out of alignment with either the internal or external shifter linkage on the gear box.

GTgears

Voodoo, where did you source your synchros and teeth? What brand? Are they oem German or Rauch and Spiegle? If the latter that may be your problem.

voodoo51

All spare parts were from FVD

voodoo51

So we changed the spareparts:
- Shift rod coupling (http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-...911+424+024+04)
- Fiction ring shifter (http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-...914+424+224+00)
- Ball socket (http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-...911+424+139+00)

Then shifter linkage alignment procedure was done. But it helped just a little.
The problems were not solved.
I don't know what should I do?

GTgears

When you rebuilt the gearbox did you measure the loaded size of the synchros? Even factory replacement dog teeth are not proper spec out of the box. They need to be modified and given a back cut on the teeth. If that wasn't done the dogteeth are pinching the synchro ring down too tight.

The result is that the synchro doesn't expand enough to properly grab the shift sleeve. It will make it hard to shift into gear and it will have a tendency to pop out of gear. Only way to know if this is your issue is to remove and open up the gearbox.