spyder348

I am going to attach pics but if they don't show.1 is when installing fabspeed Zork is the bracket that is on the turbo studs still used? If the IC pic shows up can someone tell me what brand it is. It says LR0025 and that's it. Very nice piece but would like to know what kind. Also the fabspeed filter intake set up I got the 2 hoses attached to breathers on the bracket but don't know what to do with smallest hose that came off stock air box. Last but not least the wobbly screw thing with a spring that sits next to the filter. What is it for? Oh and the bridge across middle of cos hole I removed it is that ok?

spyder348

The mystery hose is in the pic with the throttle body its the small hose that's open on the right. The left one goes to ic.

spyder348

ssorry cis not cos. its a wobbly screw w a spring and its very loose.

jwasbury

The "wobbly screw" with the spring is the idle mixture adjuster.

The small hose you asked about is coming from the WUR. Its simply a vent hose. If the diaphragm fails inside the WUR, fuel can come out of the vent. This is why the hose is normally attached to the air box. I suppose the idea is that if it leaks fuel, it will be ingested by the engine.

spyder348

Sweet so just put another breather on it is what ill do. As for the idle mixture screw I might have bumped it one way or the other a hair. Is that a big deal? Is there an easy way to set idle mixture with out a wideband.

spyder348

or I could maybe dump the wur vent to the ground with a long hose. that actually sounds safer. well an hour later and its not looking to bad.

Mark Houghton

The wobbly-screw/spring thing. I knew what it was before even seeing the pictures (I love technical descriptions). Make sure it's not binding up against the filter housing. It won't necessarily cause you any problems but for when you try to depress it to engage the inner workings when adjusting the mixture. Don't worry if you bumped it...unless you bent it. It needs to be depressed quite a bit before you can engage/turn the adjusment and affect mixture.

Also, regarding the vent hose from the WUR: It needs to "vent"....duh...for two reasons: The diaphram in the WUR needs to see atmospheric pressure or it may not function properly (that's an assumption I'm making) so don't block it off. Second, that vent's other and probably most important purpose is to allow fuel to escape "in a controlled fashion" should the diaphram rupture. Yes, you could direct a longer hose to the ground and let it puke all over down there, but better yet direct it to the intake (i.e., to the base of the air filter). Go down to your local hardware store and buy a barbed fitting, drill a hole in the base of the filter housing, install said fitting and connect the hose there. That way, if the WUR fails and spews, the fuel will be safely captured and the car will run like sheet as it tries to injest all that extra fuel....safely telling you something is wrong back there.
Just tonight has a discussion on this very topic on Pelican...see here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-9...8-wur-k-n.html

spyder348

Pics

spyder348

Zork

spyder348

Ok so just found out i removed the bridge above the cis flapper plate and it has a rubber stopper on it. Do i need to take it all back apart to put the bridge back on? What is that rubber stopper for? Didnt seem like the plate was touching it so i didnt think it was a big deal.

Mark Houghton

I could be wrong, but I think I've heard reference to that rubber stopper has something to do with directing/channeling air flow to the metering arm plate - as in preventing weird turbulence and unwanted oscillations. It certainly comes no where near coming in contact with the plate, so it really isn't a stopper per-se.

Others may have some input here. Is it critical....don't know, but why not just leave it in place?

spyder348

Thanks for the reply mark. That does make sense. Only reason i removed it is because it was easier to get the filter over the cis without it. At the time i didnt see the use for it either. Yes it does stay about 1/8th of an inch away from touching the plate. Just got off the phone with jeremy at fabspeed. He said the updated installation instructions for the intake kit say to remove the rubber seal at base of CIS but also to remove this bracket we are talking about. So i assume I am ok. Looks like it will be running tonight. Just need to put a breather on the WUR vent. Use the sniffer at work tom. and adjust CO. I think I am suppose to adjust CO at warm idle to around 2 %. Does this sound right?

Mark Houghton

Here's the non-committal answer: a lot depends on your build/mods, ignition timing being, etc. but generally 2-3% is wherre many settle at if not worried or restricted by emmissions testing. Some run as high as 3% CO to get a little better idle and early throttle response. Last time I pulled out the old Gunson Gas Tester and sniffed mine I think I was a shade over 2%. Now I just watch the on-board AFR's.
Always a little trial and error. Let your ear and seat of the pants tell you how it's running.

spyder348

Well all finished and test driven. My ear and seat of my pants tell me its perfect.1st gear full boost of .9 bar at 3000 Rpms. little popping when letting off gas. not a lot. looks great. sounds great. At wot a nice woosh and nice bov sound when shifting. Did some research and found i am going to shoot for 2-3 % co. idle stays right around 1000 which is great. Cold start and warm start are quick. took a few more pics too. for 500 bucks and a few hours of my time it was def worth it.

Mark Houghton

Bite me Spyder Man, I don't want to hear about your joy ride out there in northern Virginia. Don't you guys have any winter back there? Freezing fog, ice, and some kind of corrosive road goo that the County spreads around keeps my 930 tucked away in the garage this time of year.

Thus, we shall live vicariously through you for the time being. Glad your mods all worked out to your liking!!!