Brake Caliper Rebuild
#46
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by A930Rocket
Check for runout as well. If the rotor is slightly warped, it will cause the pistons to push back in and when you brake, it may take a second for that side to engage?
Regards, Dave
#48
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Guys,
While this problem has been frustrating, I'm really learning alot about these cars. Problems like this either scare you away from the brand or make you stronger ... I prefer the latter.
Thanks again for all of the great input, sooner or later we'll figure this out and learn more about these wonderful cars.
Regards, Dave
While this problem has been frustrating, I'm really learning alot about these cars. Problems like this either scare you away from the brand or make you stronger ... I prefer the latter.
Thanks again for all of the great input, sooner or later we'll figure this out and learn more about these wonderful cars.
Regards, Dave
#49
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Dave 86 930 Fl
Dave,
I looked at the A-arm bushings this morning and they look ok, but they are 21 years old. The car will be in the shop this week and I'll have them checked more thoroughly.
Regards, Dave
I looked at the A-arm bushings this morning and they look ok, but they are 21 years old. The car will be in the shop this week and I'll have them checked more thoroughly.
Regards, Dave
#52
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: southeastern michigan
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This is something you may want to try......I am not sure if it is possible to swap the calipers from one side to the other (mounting is the same I think) and see if the problem switches with it. If so, then you can isolate the issue to the caliper itself.
If not, then the issue is truly in the plumbing to the brake caliper, less likely since sounds like you have replaced all the plumbing, or possibly the bushings in the control arms.
Try disconnecting the ball joint from the strut and moving the shocks. Possibly the strut/shock has failed on that side causing the wheel to get light under load and locking.
Then while your at it check the bushings for binding on each control arm. You can also see if the torsion bar is broken at the same time.
Good luck.
Fred
If not, then the issue is truly in the plumbing to the brake caliper, less likely since sounds like you have replaced all the plumbing, or possibly the bushings in the control arms.
Try disconnecting the ball joint from the strut and moving the shocks. Possibly the strut/shock has failed on that side causing the wheel to get light under load and locking.
Then while your at it check the bushings for binding on each control arm. You can also see if the torsion bar is broken at the same time.
Good luck.
Fred
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gary R.
Rip those sponge rubber bushings out and go polybronze!
I checkout the PB bushings on Elephant's site, they look nice. Have you installed yours yet, I'm interested in resulting vibration & noise. My wrench gets the car tomorrow, I told him to replace with PB if the front a-arms need to come off.
Regards, Dave
#54
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fredseebeck
This is something you may want to try......I am not sure if it is possible to swap the calipers from one side to the other (mounting is the same I think) and see if the problem switches with it. If so, then you can isolate the issue to the caliper itself.
If not, then the issue is truly in the plumbing to the brake caliper, less likely since sounds like you have replaced all the plumbing, or possibly the bushings in the control arms.
Try disconnecting the ball joint from the strut and moving the shocks. Possibly the strut/shock has failed on that side causing the wheel to get light under load and locking.
Then while your at it check the bushings for binding on each control arm. You can also see if the torsion bar is broken at the same time.
Good luck.
Fred
If not, then the issue is truly in the plumbing to the brake caliper, less likely since sounds like you have replaced all the plumbing, or possibly the bushings in the control arms.
Try disconnecting the ball joint from the strut and moving the shocks. Possibly the strut/shock has failed on that side causing the wheel to get light under load and locking.
Then while your at it check the bushings for binding on each control arm. You can also see if the torsion bar is broken at the same time.
Good luck.
Fred
I replaced both front calipers with new units, so calipers so not seem to be the issue. I visually looked at the suspension again over the weekend and nothing seemed amiss. The car will be in the shop tomorrow in order to look at suspension.
Thanks, Dave
#55
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wisconsin, formerly of Boston
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Dave,
Any news on the problem you were having? Also, what type of bleeding device did you use for bleeding the brakes? If there was air bubbles in the left front caliper, you would experience the symptoms you reported. If this is a repetitive remark, I apologize.
Any news on the problem you were having? Also, what type of bleeding device did you use for bleeding the brakes? If there was air bubbles in the left front caliper, you would experience the symptoms you reported. If this is a repetitive remark, I apologize.
#56
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dave,
The car is currently at a local shop that is replacing the front rotors and pads. At this point, I will have replaced all of the brake components on the front end of the car. I'm not sure if this will prove to be the solution, but I'm supporting the global economy for sure.
Wrt bleeding the brakes, I've used pressure, suction and the good old "pump the brake pedal" method.
I'll provide an update early next week when I get the car back.
The car is currently at a local shop that is replacing the front rotors and pads. At this point, I will have replaced all of the brake components on the front end of the car. I'm not sure if this will prove to be the solution, but I'm supporting the global economy for sure.
Wrt bleeding the brakes, I've used pressure, suction and the good old "pump the brake pedal" method.
I'll provide an update early next week when I get the car back.
#58
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nathanUK '81 930 G50
Were the discs worn more at the top than the centre ?
There was no difference in wear on the rotors from inside to outside.
We are grasping at straws here, but replacing the rotors based on possible glazing issues. The surface of the rotors have a mirror-like finish, they do not look like the rotors on my wife's Boxster or any other car. Anyone care to comment on the appearance on their rotors?
Regards, Dave
#59
Hi Dave,
quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich
quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich